My 2 cents on Trial
Used the Levar - I think with Sepsi’s tune.
Got 2 - 2nd places - Easy wins - decent team - first try - thank you!
It’s done - moving on . .
I did however, as I always do, use an event lab that mimic’s the races - thank you Waznews - to get a feel for the car ,and each race prior to official entry.
I think in this case, that helped quite a bit.
Some turns - in these races - you needed to know what was coming, and know the best way in advance to maneuver within them.
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Yeah but I don’t use a keyboard - a Wheel with pedals and use the clutch pedal as a handbrake for simplification.
Can’t get the hang of a controller - too many finger buttons for my little brain to process.
Keyboards - No Way !!! though I’ve heard they let you off on jumps and stuff whereas the wheel will just spin you right off-line with even a simple mistake on landing.
Ditto. I bought a controller to see whether that might actually have something to offer, but I’ve had 25 years of gaming with a keyboard and controllers don’t appear to actually offer a massive advantage over them. Possibly an xbox Elite might’ve been a better choice, but I’m far more adept with a keyboard.
I even play ACC on a keyboard albeit at utter beginner level. The game thinks I do too much steering. 
Have often thought about a wheel, but there are logistical issues.
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yes the ai is out right broken now. i had a fh 5 car . spawn in fh4 champ. by god that champ tried to crash all the time.
this was alst week
Count me in if needed (european time zone) 
From my testing (Sense of speed/PI class/type of shifting/street furniture - in the 3rd point) it looks like the gap between A vs M vs M+C is smaller than in FH4. Of course it still varies between cars/tunes and you still usually don’t have control of gear selected.
And I still stand with my point that there should be no “gear change time penalty”.
I use arrows for gas/brake/steering, Q handbrake, S clutch, X/C gears. With that combo it doesn’t “lock up” keyboard like when using arrows + button A.
For some reason this would not trigger in Horizon Life, had to do it in Solo instead.
The time penalty for gears is not a time penalty for gears, it’s built into the speed that your car is going. So imagine this invisible wind coming from your car that pushes the Ai a bit faster when you accelerate… they go a bit faster too.
Try the Goliath, or the Colossus, and look at the Ai times at the end of the race. If you go faster, they go faster. So say colossus Unbeatable you get 17:17… the Ai will get 17:10. Then if you get 17:10 the Ai will get 17:05.
They are pushed by you, and it might look like Manual gears is making them faster, but any speed increase makes them faster anyway.
For me ,A class and above i can be just as fast in auto as manual,usually faster in auto. B class is variable,manual generally faster ,with the exception of a few good auto tunes. C and D class manual will always be a fair bit faster. That said ,i only use manual when i really have to because this game has pathetic wheel/pedals implementation.FH4 wasn’t great,but at least i had a clutch that worked in that 
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Hmm, maybe. To be clear, I was referring to player vs player situation.
How do you think - in Trial (or co-op races) AI adapts to each player? to slowest? to fastest?
I think they just match the Car Pi, but it’s not a perfect match, because the Ai don’t use the same physics as the players.
How can you have a “gear change time penalty” with Player vs Player?
I use WASD because I’m used to it, and num 1 (change down), num 2 (clutch) and num 3 (change up). Spacebar for handbrake. The default shift keys (q and e) may seem logical if you’re mimicking the layout in a car, but they make turning and changing gear awkward, hence I transferred them to my right hand.
I like the greater degree of control from using gears, but am not sure what the overall impact of manual (with or without clutch) is with respect to other aspects of the game.
With clutch and gearbox upgrades? e.g. in Eclipse when you add sport/race clutch/gearbox it shows that small green text box with number how much less time it will take to shift.
When you use older cars with stock drivetrain you can sometimes save a lot of PI by not upgrading clutch/gearbox.
I think of a penalty as something that you get taken from your time in a race. Like in some races if you start 5th on the grid the 1st place on the grid might cross the line in a different place than you do, and in the film Lemans’ the penalty costs him the race.
What you mean is a time variance.
For ‘a’ class cross country races, I used to use a tuned Trail Cat but since they introduced the Extreme E cars, it’s been pretty tough to beat them - so my advice would be to just use an Extreme E car for this one. That’s what I did and got 1st place 4 times and 2nd place once.
Forza Horizon 5: Festival Playlist Events - AUTUMN - SERIES 12
For players who need help: Cars and Tunes
Rewards - Autumn
- Audi RS 7 Sportback 2021
- Toyota 4Runner TRD Pro 2019
- Alumi Craft Class 10 Race Car 2015
- Puebla Mexican Suit
- Super Wheelspin
- Bentley Bentayga 2016
- Toyota FJ40 1979
- Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT 2014
- 100 Forzathon Points
- Dial Up Modem car horn
- MWAHAHAHA ForzaLINK phrase
- Chevrolet Colorado ZR2 2017
Forzathon Weekly: Chapter 3
Code Tune VOLKSWAGEN #1107 DESERT DINGO RACING STOCK BUG 1970 … 217 324 753
The Trial: Cross-Country Sports
Code Tune LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER VELAR FIRST EDITION 2018 … 489 482 230
Code Tune MASERATI LEVANTE S 2017 … 150 649 444
EventLab: EDELMAENN
Code Tune EXTREME E #42 XITE RACING TEAM 2022 … 116 353 765
Danger Sign: Cascadas
Code Tune RIMAC CONCEPT TWO 2019 … 685 139 256
Speed Zone: Cordillera
Code Tune HOONIGAN FORD RS200 EVOLUTION 1986 … 118 717 010
Trail Blazer: The Juggernaut
Code Tune HOONIGAN FORD RS200 EVOLUTION 1986 … 118 717 010
Seasonal Championship: The Titan
Code Tune HOT WHEELS RIP ROD 2012 … 532 725 779
Seasonal Championship: Cross Country Endurance
Code Tune LOCAL MOTORS RALLY FIGHTER 2014 … 801 012 543
Seasonal Championship: Cross Country Odyssey
Code Tune CHEVROLET COLORADO ZR2 2017 … 114 913 680
Treasure Hunt: Dune Buggy
Code Tune VOLKSWAGEN #1107 DESERT DINGO RACING STOCK BUG 1970 … 217 324 753
*** HOT WHEELS MAP ***
Speed Trap: Hammer’s Shadow
Code Tune RIMAC CONCEPT TWO 2019 … 685 139 256
Championship:
Code Tune JAGUAR I-PACE 2018 … 125 656 256
Super 7: Porsche 911 Carrera S 2019
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Anyone have the AI stop dead at start in the 5 race series? Just 2 or 3 gridded in front of me sat there. Did it on 2 of 3 restarts.
Has occasionally happened in past.
Very easy in the Macan. Probably the ultimate Porsche. Never thought I’d say it, but it does everything great without any fuss and looks good doing it.
In race 1 I got held up twice at the start and still won by a considerable margin so not sure what happened there.
Race 2 I got a super fast AI finally that I had to drive perfect to catch and pass in the final sector. Team mates were strong enough against the other ai.
(There was a really nice Camel Countryman that made think I should have chose the Mini.)
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I’ve had a few end up in reverse at the start line in the past, but never more than 1 car.
Yeah it was odd. Ran into back of one. Happened again, same 2 positions.
You’re right that hills are the main place where an automatic suffers, which is usually the biggest liability in cross-country races. And the main reason for that is because automatic transmissions in the game act very differently to how they do in the real world. In an actual automatic car, if you start to slow down going up a steep incline, you can press down on the accelerator more, and your transmission will downshift and allow you to maintain speed. (Or if you have something like the DSG setup in my Golf, you can manually trigger the downshift yourself.) But in the game, your car just loses more and more speed until eventually it figures out that maybe it should downshift, while in the meantime half the field has probably blown by you. And it doesn’t change anything if you have the throttle pegged (which as a keyboard player is the only thing I can do in the first place). I’ve sometimes had a bit of success triggering a downshift by tapping the e-brake while staying on the throttle, but it’s still a stopgap. A related problem is when you smack into an obstacle in a higher gear and lose a ton of speed, and your car takes an utter eternity to downshift back to the proper gear, so you’re left crawling along.
In any case, I know for sure that I’m switching to manual when I have to drive that crappy little buggy, because that usually winds up being utter torture otherwise.
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