Please feel free to share wheel settings that are working for you guys,i’m using the TX and looking for some help,feel free to post for all wheels,just state what wheel your settings are for,thanks1
*** UPDATED***
Hey there T Rex,
I have the Fanatec Clubsport V2 wheel on the Xbox and kept my actual wheel settings the same as in FM6. Any adjusting I did was in the demo only. One thing I have noticed is there is absolutely no road feel at all! I have vibration all the way up and feel curbs and other cars bumping me but no road feel. A small amount on the Cobblestones but on a normal road going straight the wheel is dead.
My Demo settings are as such
Steering …0-100
Accel…2-100
Decel…2-100
Clutch…15-90
E-brake…10-100
Vibration scale…100
FFB scale…48
Wheel Rotation…540
Steering Lin…49
FFB under steer…160
FFB min…130
Wheel damper…4
Center Spring…19
My Fanatec wheel settings
Sen…540
FFB…40
Sho…off
ABS…67
Lin…off
DEA …off
DRI…off
BrF…40
My assists in the Demo
ABS…off
Steering…SIM
TRaction…off
Stability…off
Trans…manual no clutch…( paddle shifters for me )
Friction assist…off
This felt pretty decent for a start. I will be fine tuning my settings more after the game comes out when it is finalized. I would hate to have them change something and have to start all over again. This is good enough for me with the demo. Once the cars are tuned some it will get even better but I really hope they add more road feel in the wheels.
3 Likes
Why you put rotation from both, ingame settings and wheel’s menu? 900 ingame and 540 from wheel or vice versa, If you want 540 degrees, otherwise you get only part from it. Or that’s how I’ve always understood that.
I have settings for the steering degree of rotation for met wheel and also in the game. I set both those settings to the same DOR usually 540. I can also set my wheel to Auto for the DOR and then in the game choose the 540 and it really should be the same. I am not sure if there is a difference I just choose to do it that way. If I set both settings though they have to be the same or at least I have not tried different settings. What started me on setting both settings the same was I drive mostly in cockpit view and if the settings are different the wheel in the game will not match what my real life wheel is doing. If the DOR settings are the same they usually match then. It’s hard to drive when I turn my wheel say 1/4 turn to the left and the energy in the game turns a 1/2 turn. Another example say my wheel is set at 360 and the game at 900…Forza stops at 90 degrees with the animation of the hands on the wheel. So when you turn the wheel only 90 degrees with 360 steering on the wheel it is a 1/4 turn but the wheel in the game has to turn nearly a full turn to have the wheels of the car pointing in the same direction for both wheels. The in game animations only go 1:4 turn till they stop and when on 900 in the game and 360 on the wheel the wheel in the game turns about 3 times faster than your actual wheel yo keep the wheels in sync. In the cockpit view this is very distracting for me. I like the wheels to rotate at the same speed to the same degrees of rotation in real life and in the game view.
I have had Fanatec wheels for many years now and we never had the Auto feature in the earlier wheels. I just got used to setting both the same and being a bit old school I just have not got used to using the Auto setting yet. I think they will both do the same thing though. I mean by this Auto should match the game setting or if both settings are the same they also should match.
Hey RoadPuke.
I have the Fanatec Clubsport V2 and the Clubsport V3 pedals
I play on the Xbox One but should work on PC as well.
My Game settings are as such
Steering …0-100
Accel…2-100
Decel…2-100
Clutch…15-90
E-brake…10-100
Vibration scale…80
FFB scale…75
Wheel Rotation…540
Steering Lin…49
FFB under steer…72
FFB min…136
Wheel damper…2
Center Spring…6
My Fanatec wheel settings
Sen…Auto
FFB…Auto
Sho…10
ABS…67
Lin…off
DEA …off
DRI…off
BrF…30
My assists in the Game
ABS…off
Steering…SIM
TRaction…off
Stability…off
Trans…manual no clutch…( paddle shifters for me )
Friction assist…off
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RoadPuke,
If you like a softer feeling wheel that feels every thing try these settings…I really like them and I spent over a day with the Demo getting these set up on the Porsche.
Sm steering is important for the feel though… Not the same on Normal.
My Settings (XOne; Fanatec CSL Elite)
In game:
Vibration scale…10
FFB scale…100
Wheel Rotation…900
Steering Lin…49
FFB under steer…151
FFB min…110
Wheel damper…4
Center Spring…19
Fanatec wheel settings:
Sen…900 (depends on car)
FFB…35
Sho…off
ABS…95
Lin…off
BrF…60
Fei…90
Assists:
only brake line on
Feels good but i want a little more feel for oversteer. does someone have a tip? And today i did some testing and it feels better to change rotation on wheel and in game i stay at 900.
Anyone got decent settings for the G920? I’m using the same settings I use in FM6 and it’s just not working. Only had the wheel for a few weeks so I still don’t know what each setting does.
What are you feeling as different?
Im running with steering deadzones 0-100 wheel dampening 40, ffb 60, vibration 60, oversteer 5, rotation 540 degrees.
Just curious as to why you went with the G920. I am on xBox one. My Thrustmaster TX has broken (again) due to the calibration problem. I have lost faith in Thrustmaster. TM wont fix it (out of warranty by 5 months) unless I ship it to canada (pay for customs) and pay a minimum of $60 for them to look at it. then, if they can fix it, I have to pay for the repairs. I have looked online extensively but I cant find anything definitively on which one is better. All I can find is the G920 is old technology but made nicer. Less plastic and better pedals. I could replace the TX servo base but that is $259! I can get the G920 less than that on amazon. I am also curious how the brake pedal feels on the G920. I have modded my pedal to feel more real.
Thanks! Rich
this is my setting for the Logitech g920. I’m still tweaking the steering axis deadzone but it feels fine to me.
steering axis deadzone inside- 1/100
steering axis deadzone outside - 60/100
acceleration axis deadzone inside - 0/100
acceleration axis deadzone outside - 93/100
deceleration axis deadzone inside - 0/100
deceleration axis deadzone outside - 20/100
clutch axis deadzone inside - 20/100
clutch axis deadzone outside - 40/100
handbreak axis deadzone inside - 20/100
handbreak axis deadzon outside - 100/100
vibration scale - 100/100
force feedback scale - 100/100
wheel rotation angle - 300/900
steering linearity - 55/100
force feedback understeer - 100/200
force feedback minimum force - 100/150
wheel damper scale - 20/100
center spring scale - 25/100
Holden,
The settings I posted above are only changing the settings in the Demo…in other words I changed nothing on my wheel from FM6 to the Demo. I did that on purpose so hopefully any wheel that worked decent in FM6 with these settings should give a decent starting point.
My theory is matching both game settings as close to each other in game settings only and no wheel adjustments any wheel hopefully would react the same but I have no way of knowing if this is true.
Only thing I’ve noticed so far is to run the Wheel Damp between 40-75 and to run the Center Spring from 50-100… still fine tuning to find the sweet spot that works for all DOR.
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I figured out what the problem was. I had vibration strength on 100 so I dropped it to 50 and now it’s much better. Every time I lost traction the wheel was shuddering really bad and moving the table it’s mounted on. It’s only a small table so it’s pretty easy to move as it is.
Shuddering is caused by the center spring.
I haven’t touched that or the other of the bottom two settings because I don’t know what they do and there’s no info from the game to help you. I’ve only had the wheel for 2 weeks so I’m still getting used to it.
I have adjusted my settings in post #2 of this thread and like this quite a bit.
I have:
Vibration Scale = 50
FFB scale 50
Wheel Rotation = 900
Steering Lin = 50
FFB under steer = 50
FFB min = 100
This is on XB1 with a G920. Everything else is default.
I don’t know if that’s the “correct” settings to have but the truck and Nissan races are fine. The 911 race on the other hand is terrible and I don’t know why.
T500RS - PC (no on wheel config) connected to a Inateck USB3.0 PCIe card - powered via PSU.
NORMAL STEERING!!
my Settings:
All deadzones 0 - 100, clutch 0-0.
Vibration: 100
FFB Scale: 90
Steering Sens: 100
Steering Lin: 50
FFB Understeer: 0
FFB Min force: 80
Wheel Damper:0
Center spring:0
My Thrustmaster control panel is basically defaults apart from master scale at 50%.
BTW:
7 Likes
Dust,would this be a good starting point for my TX on the console?Thanks.
Absolutely, for anyone.
I have spent a number of hours. Turned everything off entirely in game and then proceeded to run laps of dubai moving only one thing at a time incrementally while retesting… I think Im done.
Feels pretty much the same across all cars in the demo.
Normal Steering.
my control panel settings, for those with on wheel features for console.
EDIT: 50% = 80% strength.
2 Likes