The v2 base with latest firmware is just 0-5 I’m not sure which one has the negative values
Oh. I thought I’d seen in a YT video once or twice or read of there being negative DRI settings.
Maybe I need a new wheel. T500RS belt drive not as sharp as T300RS belt, even G2x gear drive? I used 1080 degrees for street cars, btw. In many games the extra space can show subtle effects that 720 or less won’t.
My internet cycle starts on the 15th. I’ll reinstall FM7 and try the new update then.
Edit 2: Thrustmaster driver settings play a factor as well. Ialryn is the only one who can tell us how PC and Xbox differ.
So I got my first hands on yesterday with my TX. I must say I’m impressed. The mechanical trail is what’s really been improved. It’s so much smoother & more accurate now. Due to the mechanical trail getting such a lift, things like transitioning between slides, catching drifts, stepping the car out, slight oversteer, locking up the brakes & even just doing burnouts are so much more natural than before. So that to me is the biggest change so far. It’s also made a big difference for the wheel in general because it’s the real heart of the FFB, so the better the mechanical tail the better the FFB in general. So this is a great start.
Next thing that seemed effected was the damper. Again it just feels smoother, more buttery if that makes sense. I ran 200 damper just for the hell of it (I don’t actually run it, this was just for testing) & even then the damper felt relatively fluid for such a high amount. If I had ran that amount before the update, the wheel would have felt like it was grinding gears, it would’ve made me wince honestly.
There’s not been much change to the pneumatic tail & road feel in my first impressions so far, though like everything else in the FFB, it does seem to have been improved simply because there’s now less latency, so it feels more precise. I no longer get that slight feeling that a force should’ve happened a fraction of a second ago. It’s amazing what fixing 2 frames of latency does. It all just feels more responsive & a bit sharper.
The centre spring I’m still really indecisive on. I never felt that it gives much benefit in using it & honestly I still don’t. It hardly makes a difference, at least in my testing before the update & now in my first impressions. Saying that, a small bit of centre spring does seem to help smooth over some oscillations in the wheel, however saying that I find the damper to do a more effective job at that. Regardless, do not run the centre spring too high. It’s very detrimental if you do. Small amounts is fine & is actually beneficial. This is the part of the FFB where I need to do the most testing.
Let’s go into some negatives though. There’s still no difference in pneumatic trail feel between different tire compounds, or at least from what I could feel last night. Every tire still has that same deformation feel which is a bit frustrating. I’d have liked to see street tires have less drop off effect compared to race tires but eh, c’est la vie. As lalyrn confirmed earlier, the bug where no force feedback is triggered under 13 KMH is still also there, which again, is a shame & very peculiar.
I’ll do some more testing tonight when I’m home from work, maybe get some very loose settings for people with a TX as well. We’ll see. Either way though this update has once again elevated the Force Feedback & the game.
The centre spring is situational, its most noticeable when the wheel is returning to centre. Probably felt the difference so much, as my testing with the FFB involved a lot of drifting in both stock cars from the rental system (to make certain they where stock); as well as purpose built drift, and even race tuned cars. I also found it helped with transitions. The first time I tried it, I felt the same as you Evan; and I turned it off. for a good long while. When I tried it again, thats when I noticed the difference it makes. It fits in with the description that T10 have on the Forza Support website for wheel setups in both FM7 and FH4.
Yeah I was drifting the stock Mercedes SLS yesterday at Suzuka. I couldn’t really decide if centre spring helped or not, it was just kind of there if it made sense? It helped slightly with centering the wheel after the drift but it was a very small sinister negligible difference. Still I’ll do some testing tonight to see my final verdict.
Hi Racers,
First: I appreciate your Knowledge About Force feedback, your enormous amount of testing and your effort trying to help.
But unfortunately it doesn´t help me.
I tried every Setting you all recommended the last two months. But since Dec Update there is a lot of jerking and shuddering (thats how i describe it - english is not my native language)
in the Wheel i cannot get rid of.
While braking with ABS ON - it gets worse the more the car slows down, is worst right before car stands still.
During cornering it is jerking, even on straights the Wheel is not smooth.
What I found out is that this „jerking“ goes along with mechanical trail – turn it down – no jerking –
With ABS OFF the jerking/juddering is completely gone while braking
I can imagine some benefits of the new FFB – on or near the limit feel is good – very less bad effects and I am Aware of it that small amounts of changing the Settings and the combination (DOR…) of it can have big influence but besides that straight out giving small steering inputs or in long fast slight bends it is absolutely annoying – it was absolutely smooth before the december update.
I tried all the Beta Firmwares from Fanatec 312, 324, 326 … Maybe with the 326 it is slightly “smoother”
I read the Tuners Guide, I am familiar with the specific Fanatec Wheel Settings (Drift, FEI …)…that fanatec wheels are potentially more powerfull …
So finally my Question: Is it possible that there is a specific Problem with the fanatec wheelbase V2.5 +/- in combination with xbox one x and the new FFB ???
If I am Right most of you Play on PC and most of you use other Brands than fanatec,
Does anybody have “Fanatec-specific” informations…, from the Company… from Turn 10…
I cannot get rid of the idea that it´s a V2.5 issue
I use: XBox OneX, Wheelbase V2.5, P1 Elite Wheel, McLarenGT3 Wheel, my favourite Cars Are Porsches, My Test-Track-Car Combination: Nürburgring GP and Nordschleife with GT3 RS
Please take me serious
Regards
VIB is OFF
How are we supposed to know where your settings are to help you?
if you have one or more settings out of place causing you these problems how would we know without knowing what your settings are?
Please list all the wheel settings Sen, FFB, Sho, etc that a Fanatec wheel has…also p,ease list what your in game settings are with advanced settings. That will give us a picture of what you have and possibly how to fix. Without this info it is much harder to try to help you.
Most of the settings if over applied can cause these issues and they can do so with one setting or with many and we have no idea what yours are now.
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Dan, Combuse and I have the exact same setup and we have exactly the same problems since the Dec 4th update and the Feb 5th update didn’t help anything. I’m beginning to believe now that it’s the V2.5 Fanatec base that is incompatible with the new FFB system. If you’re going down a straight road and your wheel is kicking left and right there is no setting that is going to fix that and believe me I’ve tried. As I’ve said before the only solution is to turn the FFB completely off. I didn’t pay $500 for that base to essentially turn it into a no FFB wheel. And the fact that once you enter a turn and the FFB goes to zero with absolutely no road feel just adds to the problem. Maybe Forza 6 isn’t the best FFB system but it was the best Turn 10 could come up with when it came out. And the fact that it is worlds apart from what me and Combuse are experiencing with Forza 7 says that there is major problem somewhere between our setup and the new FFB. Settings just don’t fix it. If it sounds like I’ve given up trying to work with Forza 7, you’d be right. Thanks for all that have tried to help. For those that keep asking for “what setup are you using” go back through this thread where that was provided. Dan there must be something different between the V2 and the V2.5 base that gives us the problem that you do not experience.
There is some information from T10 and fanatec that states using any fanatec wheel in xbox one mode requires th FF setting to be lowered or it will cause significant clipping. Aaron from T10 recommended that you should start with this setting at 35 (default is 100 normaly)
This is why it is important to list your settings so people can see if you have made this mistake
Are you sure your not just feeling the FFB reacting to the undulations in the track? An effect that is supposed to be there, and will cause the wheel to react as you travel down the track; which is more pronounced the faster you go. And is also stronger, when using a car stiffer suspension setups. Road cars feel softer and smoother, sportier and much more hardcore road cars feel harsher, , race/drift cars feel harsher still.
Lack of road feel was a massive complaint in FM6, and with the original FFB in FM7. Probably one of the biggest complaints in fact. But since the update, the wheel now reacts to the road in 3 ways. Through Mechanical torque, which follows the suspension geometry. through Pneumatic torque, which allows the feelings through the tires. Mainly tire deformation and understeer. and through road feel. Road feel mostly pertains to the kerbs, and things like cobblestones.
Mechanical torque reacts very well to changes on the track surface, especially on a track like Nordschleife. A track that was assumed to be be devoid of any track surface variation prior to the new FFB version, which is now very clear to see it has a ton of character to it. Its probably the track that will cause a reaction to surface changes.
But as Dan said, if people dont post their settings up; we cant provide any sort of help; other then theoretical. Having a list of the on wheel settings, along with in game settings; will help greatly.
Realistically, I would reset the on wheel fanatec settings back to their factory defaults. And then go from there. Find a setting in game that works well for everything else. And if you do not like the effects you are feeling in the area of your complaint. Lower the FFB scale in game, or reduce the FFB on your wheel itself.
On the PC version of FM7 with my T300RS, I use the driver to lower the maximum output of the wheel. I have the “overall strength of all forces” set to 55% atm. Which decreases the volume of the effects the game sends to my wheel, while still allowing me to have really good self aligning and feel.
Without owning a Fanatec wheel myself though, I cant test it. So as said, its just theoretical from me for that device. Ideally, we could do with Blue’s advice on this one. Since he has a lot of experience with Fanatec hardware, and uses a Fanatec wheel.
Lalyrn,
"Are you sure your not just feeling the FFB reacting to the undulations in the track? An effect that is supposed to be there, and will cause the wheel to react as you travel down the track; which is more pronounced the faster you go. "
Yes I’m sure that I’m NOT feeling FFB reacting to undulations in the track. An “undulation” causes a up and down movement of the wheel/tire/suspension. It doesn’t cause the steering wheel to kick right and left. What Combuse and I are experiencing is what he described as the steering wheel twitching left and right. And then the lack of any road feel through a turn.
To try and describe the “twitching” feeling of the wheel in a real world example is difficult because it’s so unnatural but it might be like running into a pothole on the right and then on left but even that would not cause the steering wheel to jerk right or left, you would feel a “thud” in the wheel. And I doubt there are potholes in any of the tracks.
He is talking about oscilations. Can you increase the damping on your wheel?
I’ve only had oscillations in other games when driving straight.
Read that’s what he said it is doing.
Ok, so I’ve learn’t a few things in re-tuning the wheel after the latest update. First up, DOR/WRA makes a huuuge difference. So do steering deadzones. I’m now at default 0 and 100 after spending most of my racing time at 0-80. End result is a smoother more linear feel and performance. I’m now at 900 DOR/WRA on both the Control Panel and in game for the TX wheel >>>it makes most sense to think of WRA/DOR as ‘Steering Sensitivity’. At 900 it was very precise but in the end too precise on higher powered cars - many visits to the kittly litter from a slight quick steering adjustment - so takling the edge off by lowering this a little makes a lot of sense<<< 720 feels easier still but at 900 you are getting more realism for sure. It took a little adjusting to but the end result is incredibly smooth and realistic feel. The wheel felt quite dead, unresponsive and uncommunicative to me after the Feb update. I’ve put in some laps in testing and some under race conditions, across a range of vehicles, and this is what I’ve come up with. I believe that the feeling achieved after the update is much smoother overall and yet sharper responsiveness wise, as well as there being some nice communication of road surface feel. I still have not quite recaptured the tyre scrubbing on the limit of past configurations, but I will keep working on it. It’s still there, but it’s more of a faint sliding sensation and slight twitch of the wheel than before. PTS is at 140-145 as I’m still a little torn here. 145 feels more realistic but it is not going to be quite as smooth, with it easier to lose traction in a tight, quick bend than at 140. I do agree as has been said on here a few times that the update makes it easier to catch the tail - well, at least you have a chance now anyway, rather than suddenly seeing a tyre wall.
What we have so far, which is quite a departure from previous versions, is:
VS 85
FFS 105
ATS 115
MTS 165
PTS 140-145
RFS 85
WDS 60 - will test lowering this also
CCS 25
WRA 720-900
Hopefully you will enjoy, and tweak to your own requirements. Best tested using the 2005 BMW M3 at S724 using either my tune or FACR Slarty’s at Suzuka. Happy racing!
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I’ve been using 840 with your old settings I’ll give these a try today thanks for posting them.
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Well, after a couple of hours of FACR’s HLC, with the notoriously difficult to handle Rally Heroes at Dubai Full Reverse of all places, the settings have predictably changed. Too much wheel wrestling and too hard to control in the windy bits. I think I got a bit carried away in bumping the FFS up. I’m now running VS 90, FFS at 100 RFS at 90 and PTS at 135. WRA/DOR I’m still experimenting with, but now I’m down towards the lower end of the scale again (780). I expect the tweaking shall continue …
I came up with some settings that I think are the best I have found since this all started…but it may not be for all wheels. As I understand Fanatec wheels have some damper built into its FFB and as pointed out by Blue028 that there is a limit of about 35 for the FFB setting to avoid clipping with the Fanatec wheels. ( I was not sure if that was for the wheel settings or the in game settings so I set both to that and started playing with the settings. ( I actually tried every setting posted in this thread over the last 2 days ) what I found was I could never get everything to feel right at the same time. I took a combination of settings and started tweeting. Came up with something really nice but it uses both Fanatec and in game FFB settings so it may feel different on a non Fanatec wheel so please try it out and post any thoughts…
Everything at off or 0 on the Wheel settings but Sen at 720 and FFB at 36 ( ABS—67 and BRF—50 or to your liking as these just affect brakes
I use Sim Steering and have not tried normal yet but Sim feels really good…and all assists off
In game settings
Vib…62
FFB…35
ATS…100
MTS…165
PTS…104
RFS…60
WD…6
CSS…2
WRA…720
SL…50
I really hope it feels as good as mine or at least gives someone a good base to start with.
Please if someone has a Fanatec wheel on Xbox please try these out including the wheel settings and post any thoughts…non Fanatec wheels too but just the in game settings.
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Thanks again Dan for this update to your settings. As you know I use the Fanatec P1 wheel on the V2.5 base with XboxOne. I think these settings are about as good as I have found for my system but they still don’t cut it. People say that Forza 6’s FFB was poor. For arguments sake lets give that FFB a score of 10 out of 10. For my setup with these settings, I’d score the Forza 7 FFB a 2, just a notch better than no FFB at all. That’s because the feel of the wheel trying to kick left and right on straights and absolutely no feel for the road in turns has me back to Forza 6 until Turn Ten get’s this worked out for Fanatec equipment.