I think it would be interesting to see what could be done if the mechanical trail forces could be scaled up a bit when pneumatic forces disappear–if this “alignment torque force compression” was implemented, and adjustable, as an “Understeer Effect” slider.
0 would be maximum combined alignment torque (mechanical+pneumatic) compression. During severe understeer, mechanical trail alignment effect would scale up so the total FFB force during severe understeer would be equal to the total FFB force currently seen just under optimal slip, when pneumatic and mechanical are sending their strongest alignment forces.
25 strong compression, just enough total FFB reduction to notice understeer. Good for drifting.
50 (default setting) moderate compression, enough to catch oversteer much more easily than current, moderate peak force loss during understeer.
75, minimal compression, significant force loss during understeer. Good for grip racing only.
100, no compression, significant drop in total alignment torque at the wheel during understeer/outside of optimal slipangle (current behavior).
You don’t need an extra setting as you can do this already, if you want no understeer drop off just don’t use any pneumatic trail, if you want massive drop off use only pneumatic trail. Adjust the balance of mechanical and pneumatic to get the feel you want, so if someone is saying they have exaggerated loss of FFB with understeer, they should increase machanical trail and lower pneumatic to keep the overal peak force very close, but past the peak slip angle FFB won’t deminish as much.
That doesn’t work so well. Lowering pneumatic trail to mechanical trail numbs the response when not slipping. I want the sharp pneumatic trail response when I’m not understeering… and strong mechanical trail alignment to catch oversteer or stop understeering when they happen… there isn’t a combination that can do that with average forces as consistent as I’d like.
The only workable route is to have high enough FFB response from pneumatic trail that my wheel (and shoulders) feel the burn, then during oversteer or understeer there’s enough mechanical trail left for the wheel to re-align, i.e. catching oversteer. I’d rather have moderate, sharp pneumatic alignment force during grip… and only a touch less total force beyond grip (would be predominately mechanical trail at that point considering pneumatic trail has nothing to send at 5+ degrees of slip for example). I think I explained it twice. Hope it makes sense. L:
The build up of force is relatively the same between mechanical and pneumatic trail, if you have both of then combined the build up will be sharp, the balance between the two will determine the amount of force after peak slip.
It is totally possible to drift using only pneumatic trail if your wheel is powerful enough, you just have to avoid giving the front tyres too much slip angle.
An hours tweaking and I’m getting back near the feel I had before. Hit 2.13s around Suzuka in the M3 but of course the half hour I spent lapping and tweaking had nothing to do with the close to a second I knocked off my previous best tuning the wheel from the last update it was just the feel ; ) Well now it feels … faster! Actually it is starting to feel really great. More work and new numbers up over the weekend. Happy racing.
I am looking forward to see what you come up with for settings. There are many people who helped me with the FFB settings but 5 main ones are you and Dave Lacy who is also from FACR, Blue028, Ialyrn, and Dust. Without the info and the research you all put into the FFB settings I would not enjoy it as much as I do.
Thank you very much for all you folks do to make the game better for many!
Thanks mate, appreciated. One thing I found testing last night was that the DOR for some reason has an effect on all other settings. I reduced it from 900 to 270 just to see what would happen, and I could barely turn the wheel let alone get any meaningful feedback - it was undriveable. I’m not sure why this would be the case but it’s a word of warning. I’m thinking now I’d better go back to the Wheel Dashboard and change my DOR there as well and see what impact this has.
Findings so far indicate the end result will be much changed. I will get this up as soon as possible as my previous settings after the update now feel very much second rate and the wheel really felt dead in comparison. I’ve now got it to the point where I have (well, I think) just brilliant responsiveness, nice pneumatic loading, nice weight and centring, very nice road feel (actually this is one part the update really seems to have nailed), good loss of grip indicator (lightening and scrubbing) and ok braking pre-lockup indicator (slight pulsing). But I’m sure I can get it a bit better.
Hey bud I’m looking forward on your final “in game settings” with this new update.
Even tho I’m using a CSW 2.5 I’m finding your settings on your YouTube video and ZR1TOM
to be the best… I like having lots of sensation from the road and feeling the car loosing grip through the wheel.
I’m really happy with the progress of the FFB. The December update was a badly needed punch in the arm, and this latest update refined that improvement further. It’s clear that Turn 10 are working diligently, and given how frustrated I was before, I have to admit they’ve brought me back in a big way.
I need to add some of you folks to my list, so I have other wheel users to race with, compare, etc.
You’re welcome to add me and I’m sure others many other wheel user will feel the same way. This is exactly how I met many of the people in this thread far too many years ago.
I’ll only remove you from my friends list if you’re faster than me - just kidding, it’s always good to have some friendly wheel user competition.
Mark you are usually a bit faster than but on some tracks…
anyway you may add me if you would like. I am a wheel user but not very fast on normal tracks. I do pretty good on Ovals for rivals though. I don’t race online much and if I do it’s usually ghost league. I am not the best racer and the last thing I want to do is wreck someone else who is having a great race until he met me…ghost I don’t have to worry about that.
Dan it’s always good to race your times and as you say it’s very much car and track dependent. Sometimes I am left thing just how are they doing those times!! The way I look at it is when someone is quicker there is more for me to learn, maybe a different approach or technique or just more time in that combination.
Others including Ialyrn and Im2fast4u711 have provided some great ghost competition over the years, we’re rarely far apart on the leaderboards. All in all many years of great racing fun and with the FFB improving too it’s all good.
Well, FWIW at this point, I’ve been really pleased with the change. I’ve been playing a LOT more FM7 since the December update, because for the first time since getting a wheel, I feel able to attack the course as confidently as I once did using a controller. Thank you!
Yesterday was my first time starting up FM7 in a very long time. As soon as it loaded and all the new cars and gift cars started to arrive I once again got that special FM feeling of the old days and the countless hours spent racing. I had no clue there had been an update to the wheel settings and after taking a look all I could say was Wow. My Fanatec V2 CS with V3 CS pedals setup has basically just been collecting dust, so I gave everything a good wipe down and using my old on wheel setting and the new default in game settings I jumped right into my old favorite #9 Honda indy car and went racing. Right off the bat I could feel something different in this car that I had spent countless hours driving, my first impressions were, this thing (wheel) feels heavy, but with more overall feel, maybe more grip? Anyway I couldn’t wait to get to the forums and see what you guy’s and gal’s had come up with. Just going back to the FM forums and seeing names like Dan the Dartman, EpicEvan, Blue028, lalyrn, Cerrax, Dust, FARC and imtoofast4u, just to name a few brought a big smile to my face, thanks guy’s. Anyways after experimenting with lots of different setups here’s what I’m liking so far. For those of you who have tried my past wheel settings keep in mind I like my setups on the light side with little to no vibration and definitely no wheel shaking at speed.
In-game: Vib=5, FFB=50, ATS=125, MTS=125, PTS=150, RFS=50, WD=0, CSS=50, WRA=540 (down to 360 for indy cars), SL=50.
On-wheel: Sen=540 (per car basis), FF=10-15 (per car), sho=off, lin=off, dea=off, dri=off (2 for drifting), abs=55, br=55.
I’m using Fanatec gear V2 CS base with Xbox 1x hub and a Momo model 30 wheel, V3 pedals with bushing kit, SQ 1.5 shifter, handbrake and Obutto cockpit.
Thanks T10 for updating this old game it feels new again and I’m looking forward to getting back into it.
There seems to be an issue with the fanatec wheel now. Although the settings are decent where I’m at there is still an issue. The drift mode on fanatec seems to be broken on this game. 0 feels like normal which makes it heavy and slow on aligning forces but setting 1 feels like 5 which makes the wheel align a little too fast. Anything over 1 it’s unplayable and the wheel bounces left to right full lock. I’ll try dirt rally to make sure it isn’t just a firmware issue. This is on Xbox
Edit: this happens in the menus also… kind of startled me when the game loaded up the wheel immediately starts banging left to right
- just kidding, it’s always good to have some friendly wheel user competition.