G27: The rattling when braking and going over kerbs/gravel etc is horrible, too strong and very artificial. Is there a way to lower it without reducing the FFB feel from the wheel force. I’ve set vibration to zero in the advanced menu but it has no effect.
Lowering the overall FFB in Logitech Profiler does reduce the rattling but also lowers all the other forces so I can’t feel the over/understeer. Am I missing something or am I expecting too much (maybe I’m too influenced by the power of Project Cars FFB individual settings)
My bad. I’ve just found some FFB settings under Wheel - Advanced. Turning vibration off there does get rid of the rattle
I was fooled by the input menu defaulting back to Controller, which has a different advanced menu.
Hi,i am on G27, The only thing i have to complain about Turn 10,is the lack of wheel rotation setting,mines its actually locked to 720,this does not bother me to much for racing but i rather drift in forza so it really messes me up on that aspect.Will there be a update to add this option? and, Will there be this option on the windows 10 version of Horizon 3 for G27? Would like to set it at 900 for both racing and drifting.
Why is the steering nonlinear? Looking in the telemetry page shows that the wheels turn progressively faster and faster as the steering wheel turns. Also, why is the steering locked at 180 degrees? After changing the angle of rotation in the driver menu the wheel will turn to the specified degree but, the game still only reads 180 degrees with the rest doing absolutely nothing. I am running the Thrustmaster TMX
Glad we have this thread now, copied from a post on reddit but I am having same issues obviously:
So far my feedback with the G920 is as follows:
Wheel IN GAME is still pulling to the left for some reason at start of races in some cars, for no reason, not on the hardware, the game, this is with default settings and it’s very annoying the wheel wont centre properly to input shifts at times.
H Shifter is hit and miss on cars and it’s not a “flappy pad only car” issue, tried about 4 manual gear knob cars and only 2 of 4 work properly, shifter does not respond to inputs unless this is animation problem? FIAT PUNTO has a stick…doesn’t work, 65 mustang coupe has a stick…doesn’t work.
DEADZONE AXIS ISSUE HAS RETURNED (as in not settings after adjustments). G920 is super stiff on the brake pedal and needs the axis adjustments via the deadzones in game, this is not currently working in game at all and break pedals continue to hardly respond, i believe this was a X1 issue that has returned.
Now for probably the worst issue currently:
CLUTCH GRINDING. I remember this issue years ago, why has this not been fixed yet? Start of every race, grinding into neutral. Change gears quickly, grind, shift through the gears with clutch depressed…grind, shift into neutral…grind, shift out, grind. Why on earth is this still an issue? EDIT 1: It would appear the reason is because any less than 100% clutch depression results in the gear grinding and said sound effect, which is absolute rubbish no car is like this, hell, my current car barely needs 30-40% depression to change gears completely smoothly, this needs to be fixed to drop the percentage down to like 10% or even 1% to resolve issues, it’s silly this is a thing.
Overall…not a good start, needs a lot more work so I hope this feedback is helpful.
P.S.
FFB overall hard to tell because of above issues, but it at least feels better ish to me, it doesn’t seem to be as aggressive or janky but it’s hard to provide feedback on this, it’s more of feeling thing.
T10 you need to do a LOT of work on wheel support, it is quite honestly TERRIBLE compared to project cars, dirty rally and assetto corsa’s implimentation (which is excellent on PC).
I would suggest posting as much feedback on your issues as possible here until they get fixed, let’s keep at it guys.
180 wheel rotation is ridiculous. This urgently needs to be fixed. It’s impossible to control fast cars. It should be at least 540 for non-open-wheel cars.
Edit: I tried it again today and it’s good, rotation is around 630 degrees. I’m sure it was only 180 before though, it was hitting the FFB “stops” on each end. I think it may be because I wasn’t running the Logitech Profiler before (G27).
What wheel are you using? It has 900 with my fanatec v2. Make sure you have your wheel set to 900 in the wheel control panel on your Pc and in the wheel itself if you have a wheel that allows that.
Then go to the advanced wheel settings in the game and make sure the wheel sensitivity is at 100.
The steering wheel in the cars will only show animation of 180 degrees but your input continues beyond that.
Hey guys, for the grinding gears, I adjusted my clutch dead zone to 0 inside and 50 outside and never had an issue grinding gears. I hope they make it more realistic where you can stall the engine in the future
had to chime in here too with my issues with my g27.
Most importantly, the 180 degree wheel rotation is maddening. it makes first gear chicanes impossible and it makes it impossible to recover from over steer.
The wheel ‘vibration’ is a very disruptive, and very unrealistic. the vibration would cause my wheel input to go neutral. ie, turning my wheel to full lock right or left (wheel on screen is at 90 degrees) and the in cockpit view i can see the wheel instantly go to center, then instant 90, repeat. Turning off the vibration was the only way to get rid of the ‘wheel ghost centering’ and the clunking/chattering. no amount of reducing the vibration setting would help.
also, i dont like the wheel sensitivity. a very small input from my wheel translates to large movement in game. it is out of proportion. iv tried turning down the sensitivity settings, but no setting makes it linear. this feature does not belong to wheels. controllers maybe, but in a wheel its unnatural. it turns subtle movements, mid corner, into violent movements that disrupt the car and can send you off.
all that said, im super happy forza is coming to pc, but it will be a deal breaker if these things aren’t fixed in horizon 3.
The wheel sensitivity setting is linear at 100. If you set it to 0 it is less sensitive in the first part of wheel rotation and real sensitive in the last part. If you set it to 200 it is real sensitive in the first part of wheel rotation and less sensitive in the last part. When you go to change a setting for your wheel in the game make sure your scrolling over to your wheel every time because the game always goes back to the controller. Also when you change something in advanced settings for your wheel make sure you click accept instead of just backing out or the change you make will not take effect.
thanks for the tips. the steering sensitivity feels best at 100, like you suggested. but it still doesn’t feel connected. i cant explain properly. either its input lag, or some conflict in the background. i get large lag spikes and loss of direct input to the game, usually control mid corner in full lock situations. (i think because the 180 limit) the wheel doesn’t do what i input it to do. i see it on screen move faster or slower than my commands. go to center, etc. im still loosing all input for long periods of time when the wheel goes past 90 degrees left or right. i noticed on one occasion steering input returned with throttle, and then went to neutral when off throttle. also, esc doesnt work unless you are not moving any of the wheel controls. off throttle, off brake.
i reset all my advanced options to default and turned off the vibration but turning off the vibration doesn’t seem to have helped with the random steering input to center problem.
