I bought a G920 for one purpose: enjoy FM6 at a higher level.
But the problem is: why doesn’t Forza fully support the G920?
To really sum it up: the wheel doesn’t feel and react to the Forza games, unlike the Thrustmaster or Fanatec racing wheels.
If you like drifting on Forza, you’d notice straight away, if you’re drifting on 900 degrees, when you transition (change sides) and you let the wheel spin by itself to the other direction, it doesn’t do that, it just makes you spin out.
If you like circuit racing on Forza, you’ll notice that the wheel becomes extremely light mid-corner, it just doesn’t feel the road or the car at all, so when you’d think it’s a better experience playing with the G920 instead of controller, you actually just feel like you’re playing with a cheap, no-purpose toy.
I want to know if Turn 10 will do something about the Logitech G920 racing wheel and make it fully functional to play their games like a proper steering wheel because, at the moment, it’s making me stop playing any Forza games with my G920. This is just a brief explanation of the many problems the Logitech G920 racing wheel has when playing a Forza game, I just covered the main problems a regular wheel, such as a Thrustmaster or Fanatec wheel, wouldn’t have.
The main reason, as far as I know, if someone else knows, speak up please, but the big reason is the wheel was released about a month after the game was released. And they might have been already working on the next game, so features like steering wheel support wasn’t going to be fully supported. I might be wrong on the support side, but the release part, is a big part of it. I’m sure the next FORZA game will fully support it. I’m hoping, as mine is collecting dust because I’m faster on FM6 with a controller, as it tends to feel more like an arcade racer with the wheel, in my opinion.
All things that still need to be fixed but most likely never will. We did get a wheel patch but it didn’t do to much.
The wheel going light on corners is extremely annoying, this is also on the TX by the way. While it doesnt work on FM6 it works on every other racing game on Xbox One. I know Voodoo has a pinned thread discussing the wheel but it seems it’s just gone quiet and we’re not really getting any responses.
All I can say is hopefully soon in the future we can get a complete fix for it.
It is not the wheel, it is just how Forza is. It is the same no matter if you are using the G920 or the Fanatec, the FFB implementation in Forza is sub par. Certainly has nothing to do with when the wheel released, plus, T10 most likely had the G920 wheel prior to release anyway.
And for comparison to show I can drive in other games with better FFB and general wheel support, also at 900° of rotation (as I have had people kicking up a stink saying I wouldnt be able to replicate it in other games with “better” wheel implementation) -
I just bought Project CARS because of how much people said the FFB was lacking in FM6.
Oh Mylanta! The FFB in Forza 6 is TERRIBLE. Project CARS is ugly as sin and boring as hell, but the DRIVING FEELS AMAZING on a wheel. I have a G920 and Forza feels awkward and slippy. But Project CARS it feels so natural and awesome.
I really hope Turn 10 works a lot harder on wheel implementation, because if other racing games are doing this much better than Forza, they are gonna lose a big audience.
Forza is super pretty and super fun but if you want to actually drive realistically, you need another game.
If you think Pcars is anywhere near realistic feeling on a wheel (or at all), or even “AMAZING”, you will have one hell of an eye opener when Assetto Corsa releases on the Xbox one. That is assuming Kunos do not change anything from the PC version. Assetto Corsa makes Pcars in terms of physics and force feedback implementation look like a joke. And this is coming from someone who put money into Pcars funding phase.
As for needing “another game” to drive “realistically” with, you can drive plenty realistically in Forza with a wheel. It is only the FFB that is sub par, the actual physics in relation to making inputs on a steering wheel are pretty good. And for actual racing and hotlapping, even with the poor FFB, it doesn’t do a bad job in that circumstance. The poor FFB is really only going to effect you if you are going for full on insane angle drifts.
Dont know why people expect to just pick up a racing wheel, and then expect things to be easy. There is a massive learning curve with regards to using a racing wheel, and it takes time and patience to get good with one. You also have to take into account the loss of other sensory information, such as G-forces (most people so not have full motion rigs), loss of periphery vision from the cars windscreen, even our own sense of fear and self preservation (driving fast does incur a factor of risk, and quite a large one).
The biggest factor in all of this, is the fact that since day one Forza has had the reputation of been an “arcade” racing game. This was something put about 10 years ago by ultra die hard fans of the GT series, who did not take well to another game dev on a competing system releasing a far better clone of their beloved racing series. One that they could not pay unless they bought an Xbox, because console exclusivity. Forza from day one did weight transfer, torque steer, progressive grip, and a fair few other things. Items which are still not replicated over in the GT stable.
And no doubt I will be accused of been a Forza apologist and fan girl again, so…
Those are just the racing games I have on steam, I also have 7 need for speed games on Origin, plus The Crew on Uplay. That is not even taking into account the racing games I have on other media, such as DVD-Rom, CD-Rom, Floppy Disk, Cartridges, and even Cassette tape.
Basically, as long as I find a racing game fun and enjoyable, I will play it. Arcade or sim, doesn’t matter to me. I just don’t like to see people bash something just because they cant do it. I am not saying Forza does not need improvements, because it does, and T10 know it. Whether they will follow up on that, well that is anyone’s guess but theirs. But with how FM6 is right at this very moment, it is more than possible, and very easy, to drive fast and precisely enough to get into the top 50 on the LB.
Just take a deep breath if you are having difficulties, perhaps even take a short break. And then return to the game with a fresh head and try again. Slow down a bit as well, jump into a lower class car if you are always in A class and above; and really give yourself time to learn things. Dont even worry about tuning or racing at this point, just drive at a pace you are comfortable with on your own in rivals mode.
I haven’t touched Forza in almost 2 months now. I switched to PCars just out of curiosity to test it with my G920 and haven’t looked back. I know PCars is a simcade (same as Forza for that matter) but the FFB is miles ahead than Forza and the AI as well…Even in unbeatable AI in Forza is very predictable and mechanic, in PCars it isn’t. I have Assetto Corsa on pre-order already and can’t wait for its release based on comments by everyone who has played it so I’m pretty sure I won’t be touching Forza again.
All week long I’ve been considering buying a desktop to give Assetto Corsa, RFactor and Raceroom Racing Experience a try but since AC is soon to be released in xbox and it’s supposed to be the best of them, I decided to save that money for some vacations =D
Ialyrn I’m surprised you don’t have those last 2 games I mentioned in your steam racing list since I’ve heard also good things about them.
look at the ffb options on both games and what you can change, pcars has about 3 pages of changes to improve the feel of all cars, forza has deadzones.
From my experience the game becomes much more sim once you plug in the wheel. They guys and girls who are quick with the wheel get my respect.
It isn’t an instant lap time gain with a wheel but with patience and skill ,being smoother which the wheel allows will reward you with quicker times.
Personally for me I have more fun with the pad on fm6 and wheel on p cars.
Fun is why we play.
Thanks for replying everyone, I am aware that it is Turn 10’s side that is affecting the way the G920 works, not the wheel itself. Sure they say “practice makes perfect”, but I don’t see the point in being “realistic” on Forza, the wheel’s performance just doesn’t deliver that cutting-edge technology it features.
Lalyrn, I am surprised you are able to use 900 degrees on the G920, but when it comes to being faster and not doing “Tokyo Drift” style drifting in car parks, it’ll become a different experience, hence why you see every G920 drifter use below 300 degrees rotation for one purpose they say: “it’s the only way”.
So I see the sudden lightness also happens on the TX wheels, I didn’t know that, I guess it’s an issue across many wheels, I don’t know well myself, since all I have is a G920. I’d really like my wheel to just spin the other direction (FFB) just like them pro drifters in Formula Drift. It’s ridiculous having to use 300 degrees or playing another game to have a better experience.
Yeah, mate, it’s terrible if you’re expecting a lot and a “better” experience. I don’t know how to explain it, but I’ve observed the gameplay of other wheels from YouTube game plays, e.g. TheSlapTrain, and it would seem the Thrustmaster TX wheels have better force feedback than the G920.
And yet you are ignoring the videos from another person who actually has the G920, and who can actually drive the cars in a straight line or drift them with said wheel on two different gaming platforms. That makes perfect sense.
Just to add a little more emphasis on what is actually possible in this game with this wheel (linked as clickable thumbnails because of the forums formatting):
I owned a TX wheel till it burnt out. This is what I can do with the TX wheel:
The reason I have the G920 wheel is because the TX wheel has proven to be unreliable, and Thrustmaster support is very (very!!) lackluster in the UK. The forces it can produce are stronger, but that is a double edge sword. Because the wheel is stronger by default because of the belt driven FFB, it means you have to turn the FFB down just as much, and sometimes more than the G920 wheel. This is because you get a thing called FFB ‘Clipping’. On the PC we are able to monitor clipping in games like Assetto Corsa, iRacing, and even in Pcars. This allows us to reduce the FFB to the point where clipping is no longer happening. In Forza we have no ability to see when the FFB is clipping (if at all), we can only test different FFB strengths till find one that suits us individually. Usually about 70 to 80% in FM 5 or 6 is best on the G920. 60 to 70% on the TX wheel. As for the Fanatec, I don’t know because I have not used that one. Another thing to keep is mind, is also the ‘Rumble’ effect. It is often best to turn this effect off, as it just muddies the actually FFB information been sent to the wheel. And just to be sure rumble is fully of, also setting ‘Vibration’ to 0% in the advanced controller settings screen is also a good thing to do.
The rest all boils down to the fact that Forza’s force feedback isnt the best thing around, which does need working on. But all the necessary information is there in the FFB it does provide, and it allows you to drive the cars well; even at 900° of rotation. Assuming you take the advice I gave out earlier in this thread, slow down, get in a much slower car, and actually learn what the game is trying to convey via its FFB implementation.
At the moment you are just ignoring what I am saying, like most people you would rather blame the game and wheel fully for their issues; instead of looking towards yourself. Countless people have taken my advice on this matter, and most of them come back to me saying that they no longer have an issue driving the cars. The rest do the exact same thing as you are doing right now, dig their heels into the ground with their fingers in their ears and eyes shut going “la la la I cant hear you, you crazy raving mad loony woman!”. Instead of throwing all your toys out of the pram, go back to the video where I show my wheel settings, try them out, and follow the advice I have posted up hundreds of times before. It works for both drifting and racing.
Trying to drift around a hairpin corner in 6th gear causing the engine to bog down, is not the best idea at all. From your Xbox DVR footage:
As far as I can see from the rest of your Xbox DVR footage, you dont seem to be having the issues that you are going on about in this thread.
At W4RLOCK38, if you are just looking for a wheel to use on the Xbox with Forza, Dirt Rally, Pcars, Assetto Corsa (when it releases). You will find the wheel is quite good, it works well, but there is a learning curve that most ignore. It isnt like getting in the driving seat of a real car, as we loose so much information when playing a video game. G-forces, our own sense of fear (which is different from person to person), peripheral vision. Things like that are not in any racing game. We crash we can restart, we push harder than we do in real life because of it. We drive cars without TCS/STM/ABS, even in things like the Mclaren P1. Cars which in real life we would never to that with, as it would be asking for trouble. Not every games FFB is alike either, and every racing games incurs a learning curve of its own. Forza’s FFB is different to Dirt Rallys, Dirts is different to Pcars, and Assetto Corsa’s is different again. Expect the difference in FFB between games, take things easy till you get used to what the individual game is trying to convey with its FFB implementation, and then you will not see too many issues at all.
If however you are looking at a wheel to use on the PC as well, then even with Thrustmaster’s proven unreliability with the TX. I would highly suggest looking towards it, as it has a much better device driver on the PC than the Logitech G920. That isnt to say the G920 isnt usable on the PC, as it is. It works in Assetto, Pcars, Dirt Rally, iRacing, Raceroom, Rfactor; it works in all of them rather well. But having a fair amount of experience with the TX wheel, as well as a G27(which also has a very good driver on PC) and the G920. I can say that the TX is better in that regard over the G920.
Was considering investing in a wheel myself. I would like to have insights on using a wheel with ‘sim steering’ mode. You generally drive on ‘normal’, is that correct? From what I understand, normal ignores some of the ‘physical effects’ transferred from the road to the car, according to the description in the menu. So how is the wheel on sim steering? Isn’t that what sim steering is for… the wheel?
@lalyrn, well your explanation makes alot of sence to me, i have used other wheels in the past such as the G27 so im not much as a novice however i need to make more research for the console platform. Your input is much appreciated.
Ps…i will be watching the videos that you have posted and hopefully will make my decision alot easier.
Normal Steering also dampens some movement on the wheel, especially sudden movements, to keep the input smooth. This is most apparent when the car loses traction. Normal Steering makes it quite easy to recover, Simulation Steering moves the wheels exactly the same way the steering wheel moves, so jerky movements or quick turns with the wheel can cause you to lose control.
I have switched my wheel ( G920 ) to Normal and the game is much more playable for me personally. Without any G-forces to indicate the movement of the car, I find it very difficult to feel when the car has lost grip or to recover from a spin. Normal smooths the inputs over, so if I over-compensate when the car starts to slip, I don’t send the car careening into a spin.
Normal steering has a slower linearity (less sensitive) and dampens weight transitions only, the steering is still 1:1. The physics don’t change at all when using assist physics are the constant, the assists are just layer or filters playing over top of the physics. Normal steering dampens weight transfer by slightly altering the players input, you can see it in action in an open wheel car (one that has correct graphical representation of front wheel angle, ALOT of cars have this issue) when correcting oversteer just before the car changes direction you can see the front wheel straighten up slightly without you telling it too. On 360 forza titles this action was very noticeable as the filter was very glitchy and you could clearly see the wheels wobbling back and forth, just watch any old forza drift video and you’ll probably spot it. On forza 6 the filter is very smooth but you can still see it.
Assisted steering is exactly the same as normal, no difference whatsoever, (dont beleive the ingame blirb is a complete lie) but if you select assisted steering assisted braking is forced on so the assisted steering setting g is worthless.
Simulation steering is unfiltered and twitchy, even on 900 degrees you’ll never have to turn the wheel very far at all even in tight hairpins (unless you in a car that has low steering angles like the Lotus e23)
I have seen Alot of misconceptions about what steering setting do, I have spent many hours testing and studying how each setting works.
Like lalyrn has explained my experiences are the same: g920 just doesnt go together with forza. Its ffb is too light in center of turns where u most need it. Tx wheel is superb with ffb, but has its bugs and must be quickbooted during racing now and then…
Reminds me of Playmobil.
