Hello hoping someone can help. Got a couple of fwd cars in b class.
Under acceleration in low end gears the front wheels just spin up. Is this down to gearing or diff setting.
The cars are good handling just the wheel spinning is causing a problem. I run stm and tcs both off and manual clutch.
Any help would be gratefully received.
It can be down to both, and also TCS off, but you don’t want to turn it on otherwise it’d probably kill the car.
At what speed roughly does the car stop spinning up? And which gear? If you have a tuneable 'box and diff then we can maybe have a look.
dont hold the gas down while the clutch is engaged. you are letting off the clutch with the engine at high rpms. i had a merc ln7 that only had a 1.6 liter engine and decent tires, it could spin the tires in the 1st 3 gears in real life and it was stock. apply the gas while letting off the clutch, not before. you rev the engine downshifting, not up shifting.
It spins up the wheels in 1st up to 40mph and second up to 70/80 3rd it starts to level off. I don’t want tcs back on it kills the kill the car as you say.
Im not hard on the the throttle (but using a controller) so I’m as easy as you can be on a controller.
I have tuneable gears and diff,
Diff is 40 front and 10
Gears are full for 1st and about half way for 2nd then it curves off (used forzatune 6 for gears, as I can’t tune gears for toffee)
It’s lets me down on my starts to a race. I drop places like a stone at the start of a race then it’s hard work regaining places (I don’t mind the racing it’s just the Muppets that don’t no how to race.)
Oh goodness, don’t use a tuning calculator! Have you ever wondered why you spend more time shifting than a Fast and Furious movie?
I’d elongate the first 3 gears a bit so it’ll settle and stabilise before you hit the power. I’d also avoid first at all costs and only use second as a last resort, like the hairpin at Hockenheim for instance.
The rest might be build related.
Sorry cant stop laughing at the comment. (About the shifting)
When I’m racing it’s I use 3 gears 3rd to 5th. Will try starting in 2nd gear see if that works, thanks for the help. May even try a rebuild of the car.
You won’t stop the wheel spin in a FWD. you need to find a way to maximise the grip at the front tyres which means playing with ride height, rear bump, front rebound, softer springs at the front stiffer in the rear, high front downforce low rear, compromise camber at the front and set it up to being the rear round slightly in the corners.
You won’t stop the wheel spin you need to work with it and make the compromises to allow you to drive it quickly.
Even with the cars stock settings? Do I need to tune it to run like it would in real life? Wow! That’s simulation!
Because every FWD cars with decent power stock wil burn tires like crazy, mainly in the mid to end of corners.
The problem with FWD even in this game is that the weight shifts off of the front wheels when accelerating. The best option you have is to stiffen the rear springs and bump and increase the front rebound you should then at least be able to slow the weight transfer and keep the weight over the front. You can combat understeer by increasing the rake (lower front ride height, higher rear). Doing this will have 2 effects in game.
Note. The bigger your rake the stiffer your rear ARBs need to be to combat the twisting.
Increasing the rake also passively boosts rear downforce so the car should be much more stable at speed
Thanks for your points but I haven’t made myself clear. What I was trying to say is that, if you pick the weakest focus or civics and take it for a ride, you know (because you drove it in real life) how the car should handle if you drive it aggressivly. But in Forza the cars will spin wheels like crazy till 3rd gear. But you know, I know, everybody knows that the cars should not spin the wheels (specially in the end of corners) the way forza displays.
It’s not a matter of tunning. I don’t want to tune it to look like it should in real life. I just wanted to feel that I am driving the car like it is supose to drive for real.
Well I’ve tried a new build and it the same.
Starting to put up with the wheel spin and have changed the driving style to suit it.
Just got understeer now ( the joys of getting every thousands out of a car.)
I don’t have a front wing on but do a have a rear. Will have to try fitting a front Wong and running it like that.
I seam to find most of my cars understeer.
No front wing will do that, also you can run crazy rear settings as the rear wheels do nothing other than keep the car on 4 wheels.
If yuo want to you could PM me the full build and tune, and I take a look at it.
But for now I’d say front wing and max it out, and possibly higher Acc diff setting, Althuogh I do know that some drivers like to have that front diff on rather low setting.
Away for a couple of days now so car us put on hold, but will slap a front wing on it and try running that way.
I may pm you if there is no joy thanks for the offer
Four factors in FWD wheelspin (other than TCS).
In order of importance (most to least):
Throttle control
Diff & settings
Tire compound / width
Gear ratios
Your skill with #1 will determine how important 2 thru 4 are.
All of the above and short shift to 2nd. If you can pick up 2nd gear lower in the power/torque curve you may find some traction.
However, no manufacturer makes a FWD much above 300bhp because of this very problem. You simply can’t transfer the power. If you’re running very high power then you’ll have to live with it. Any amount of tuning won’t overcome the laws of physics 
True.
The only other thing I know of not mentioned, is to build the engine with the flattest most gradual torque curve you can and don’t use any flywheel upgrades.
Many FWDs are purposely powered that way to minimize the problem.
However, depending on whats available, you maybe limited on that.
Tire width is probably the easiest “go-too” in this struggle.
I had the same issue with a Focus I’d tuned up to B class and it span up the wheels in the first 3 gears. It also had horrid torque steer which would kick the car wide when applying power too early on a corner. In the end I sacrificed the power a little and converted to AWD and got far better traction and smoother lines through the corners. I think a RWD conversion might have been a better option for pure speed but I prefer the stability of AWD and the ease of making up places off the start. As stated earlier once you’re above 300HP it’s worth considering that FWD can just be too unwieldy for most. I could drive the earlier tune but it made every traction zone and corner an adventure rather than enjoyable to drive.
Same here, the Focus RS torque steers something serious in Forza games, even though the car has ‘Relvoknuckles’ (Spelling?), and as far as I know, this feature prevents torque steer. The cars wheelspin was also pretty bad…plus straightening out with the torque during corners…hope the 2016 Focus RS will be better if it appears in Forza 6s car roster
Thanks for the replays. (A weekend away and there are a few more people willing to help with advice) it all been taken aboard.
I’m hoping to be back on tonight depending what time I get home, I will share my tune for people to try and play with, will post the details my here when I get home.
Thanks again for the advice/help you have all given so far.