What is wrong with the brakes? ABS is off and I use the maximum extend of tolerance, but when I klick the braking button just 2mm the car makes a huge full brake! What the hell is wrong wit that? This is unplayable! What am I doing wrong?
try turning the braking force in the tuning menu down, make sure that you have put the deadzones at 0-100, and above that, be gentle with the brake trigger, let the vibrations of the trigger tell you when the brakes are beginning to lock, and back off from there. Also, feed the brake trigger in gently.
Basically, the only real way of improving with this is to practise!
pay attention to the vibration in the trigger, the vibration tells you when you are at the limit of traction. and set deadzones to 0-100, this helps a little bit.
also its worth mentioning the brake balance is backwards, so if you set brake balance to 70% front, thats actually 70% rear.
Better still, hand the controller to someone else to have them play for you. ABS does some of the work for you, but not as much as just handing off the controller to someone else.
Keeping the brakes from fully locking up and going into a full skid is about the hardest things to do in this game. Even with the ABS on the brakes still lock up so it takes practice and concentration to get it right.
Here is a way to help with your brakes besides what has already been said up above. First look on your telemetry and see what brakes are skidding. What ever one you see locking up first take your brake bias towards that side of the car (yes that is backwards but it works). now if its all four locking up lower your pressure. If that still doesnt work then its not the game it is you. Be more delicate on the brakes and dont mash them. You want to start easy buy make it firm rather quickly and keep adjusting your finger pressure by the feel of the rumble and sounds your hearing.
I think its a combination of the new game and new controller. The old controller has much more resistance in the triggers. Even with the brake deadzone from 0 to 100, the actual zone is much shorter than the full travel of the trigger. It is killing my times.
Tank you fore the help. Yes… I installed the best breaks I could find in the tuning shop. I never thought to adjust the brakes in the tuning setup. I was always trying to figure out the best configuration in the controller menu. So I don’t have to try it in the advanced controller menu, right?
the advanced controller menu is to adjust the “deadzones”, set them to 0 on the inside and 100 on the outside, this will give a little bit more trigger travel.
but again, the key is to pay attention to the vibration in the trigger, and dont squeeze the trigger all the way down. i have found that just a few millimeters of trigger travel is enough. and dont think of the trigger like an on/off switch.
also, listen to the tire sounds, as tire sound also gives you information about traction.
Learning how to squeeze less will result in better braking than reducing brake pressure in the tune. Reducing brake pressure reduces the maximum effectiveness of the brakes.
Squeeze less or slower is the key. It is not an on/off switch.
That probably suits your driving style best Rex, but SNE is right. Lowering the braking pressure also reduces the effectiveness of the brakes. It depends on the car but I don’t have any pressures below 120% and many are above 140%. I very rarely lock up. In fact, the tendency to lock up is probably going to be greater when running below 100%, as you will be drawn into pulling the trigger harder under threshold braking simply because of the lack of effect. Having said all that, when you are running a track with minimal braking - such as Alps - you can can help yourself out by lowering pressure so that you reduce the risk of over-braking when you only need to wash off a little speed.
I forgot this was about the controller Mick,i use the wheel and the lower pressure don’t work on all cars,mainly S and up is where i get the best results.