In FM5 and now 6, I’ve had too always set brake pressure on my cars to 60-65% to avoid locking up using the standard XBox One controller. What advanced setting, if any, could I adjust instead of having to do this? And what would be a good setting that might equal my 60-65% break pressure point that worked for me?
If there isn’t one I can always keep doing what I’ve been doing, but that always messes me up when forced to drive stock or on cars with no brake upgrades. Plus, I can never really use other people’s tunes very well.
Thanks ahead for any help with this.
Try setting the braking deadzones at 0 inside and 100 outside.
But in all honesty sounds like you need to really work on just being easier on the brake trigger. You are really costing yourself a lot of time running brakes at 60% pressure.
I actually run 100% braking and don’t use the whole trigger. I like the option to be there is I want to lock them up, but I feel changing the brake pressure to get to that perfect threshold braking zone is a bad idea. Not all brake zones are created equal, there will be times when your preset threshold will not actually be strong enough and you are losing braking distance, and there will be times where your brake zone is too slick and your set pressure will lock you up. With the trigger you can always modulate, you can feel the tires lock a little and back out of it slightly, or continue to lay on pressure when you need to. Not to mention modulating brake pressure near full pull is a lot more difficult than modulating at half pull distance.
I run my triggers, both accel and decel at 5% / 100%. There is a natural trigger deadzone from the controller at full depress, so I find anything less than 100% creates a fairly long deadzone at full pull on the triggers. The beginning isn’t as important, but 5% gives you a little buffer from mistaken inputs or phantom inputs.
Just up the dead zone I think it’s at 5 stock? I wouldn’t move it but just a few clicks at a time but honestly you should just work on your brake finger with that kind of pressure you are on the brakes way to early it Has to be taking a toll on your lap time. I had the same problem when I quit using abs but I kept at it now I use anywhere from 130 to 150 it’s a huge advantage.
So if I want more travel on the initial press of the left trigger before it starts to register am I adjusting the deceleration inside or outside dead zone and am I increasing or decreasing the number to get more trigger play?
Thanks
Your controller will give you a 0 to 100 span no matter what your dead zones are so if you set your dead zones to 0 and 100 you will have the most braking movement on the brake trigger. If you set your dead zones to 25 and 75, your brake trigger will still give you 0 to 100 but now that starts at 25 and ends at 75 in essence giving half the movement that you had at 0 to 100. This means that a 2% movement at 0 to 100 is 2% and a 2% movement at 25 and 75 is a 4% movement both at the same movement. Hope you understand this as It can be a little confusing.
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Just set the braking deadzone 0-100, put on abs and that should help. It does sound as though you just wanna be able to hold down the brakes without skidding but it doesn’t work that way, you have to be able to modulate your braking better. I usually go hard on it at first till I feel the vibration then dial it back a little so the brakes don’t lock but I’m still getting a high brake pressure. All i can say is just keep practicing and you’ll get better at it, but just remember the haptic triggers are you friend in both throttle and braking so just try and pay attention to the vibration as well as the audio clues to tell you what’s happening with the car.
Last night I turned off ABS for the first time because I noticed that my stopping distances didn’t seem to match up very well with what the braking line was telling me and one of the tips explicitly said that ABS extends braking distances. I didn’t really trust myself to not constantly lock my brakes but figured I’d give it a shot.
My braking distances are now significantly better and I never lock the brakes. The force feedback is extremely helpful; I’ve been really impressed with it since first firing up FM6 in my new Xbone. You can intuitively “feel” when you’re braking just enough to use maximum traction. I’d actually kinda learned to start braking this way with ABS specifically due to the force feedback, but I realized that if I am doing this then ABS is only a hindrance because it seems to activate well before you’ve started to use maximum traction, which is why stopping distance is longer.
If OP is constantly locking his brakes on accident then he should first and foremost realize that he needs to make use of the information that the force feedback and squealing wheels are providing him. If he is still locking his brakes even after a couple test drives concentrating really hard on the force feedback then only then should he try ABS. If he comes to hate ABS as much as I do then it will simply be a matter of deciding which is the lesser of two evils.
I personally don’t think the brakes are sensitive enough! 
My brake deadzones are set to 0-70.
Throttle is a different story. That’s set to 21-100.
Try your settings at 2-100 for the throttle. 21 -100 still has all the controller range but crammed into a 79 point area making it react approx 20% faster than 2-100look at it this way if you have 100 coins and spread them into 100 inches all is well but if you spread them in 79 inches it won’t work so well as some will be doubled up. ( faster acting throttle ) hope this helps.
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Thanks for the advice.
I’ve been experimenting with different deadzones but it comes down to how I hold the controller.
I use my index finger for the gas and my middle finger for the brake (because my index finger is on the clutch). My index fingers are really twitchy so there’s really no difference between 2 or 21 for my inside deadzone
I’ve thought about trying to get myself used to using my middle finger for gas as well. Might have to give it another try.
What really annoys me is that Forza doesn’t seem to read the last 5% of travel on the triggers, so my outside deadzones lose that. It’s really frustrating.
Honestly this has gotten out of control lol, stop over thinking these things. Set the deadzones to whatever and race around a track like Road Atlanta by yourself and practice, it has every type of corner with different levels of braking. You have long sweeping, tight s’, hairpins, along with long straights that ends in heavy braking. Do it in a car you own in rivals so you make money for lapping, after 50 laps or so you should make a lot of money as well as learn how to brake.
I think that in part you may want to go through and practice using the brakes. Here are some tips I can give from the process I used:
– If you are right handed, it’s tougher to use the brakes as opposed to the throttle and exercise control because you are right handed
– Try using your middle fingers - with your index fingers you may lack the sensitivity you may need or it may be not be as aware as to how far you pull the trigger
---- I use Left Bumper for the clutch (manual w/ clutch) and so I kind of forced myself to use my middle finger for the brake
---- I was having some issues with throttle control until I resigned myself to using my middle finger for the throttle and it’s much better now.
Here is my Advanced controller settings:
Steering Deadzones: 5 / 100
Acceleration Deadzones: 0 / 100
Braking Deadzones: 5 / 90
Clutch Deadzones: 0 / 100
Handbrake Deadzones: 0 / 100
For now I have this but it is subject to change as I see fit as I race.
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This is probably a stupid question, but do dead zones matter when the function is on a button, ie clutch on y or lb, where it’s just a press and that’s it? No, right? Or what am I missing if yes?
Deadzones don’t matter for buttons. Pressed button = 100%, untouched button = 0%.
Some people set the handbrake and clutch on triggers or sticks, so that’s what those deadzones are for.