Turning without Sliding

Forza Motorsport Legacy Motorsport
#1

FINAL EDIT: Thanks guy’s for all the support. I have now downgraded the car to an A class and did heavy handling improvements. This dramatically changed how well the car steers and brakes. I will definitely think more clearly when buying another car :wink:.

Hello, I recently bought my Xbox one a few weeks ago and it came with forza 6 and the ten year anniversary car pack. I’ve been playing for a while and I bought a BMW M3 from 2005 (in game). I upgraded all the parts to maximum and customimized it to look exactly like the. BMW M3 GTR from Need For Speed Most Wanted from 2005. I noticed that while racing. When I turn at a corner at 40 MPH and slightly braking the BMW still slides widely to almost hitting the wall sometimes. As I doing something wrong? I did tune the car a little to corner better but it doesn’t really help unless the turn is very long and not angled very sharply. Like those long straight always in the alps race tracks.

EDIT 1: The issue that’s I have identified is extreme understeer. Idk why this is occuring as the the tires are upgraded as well as brakes. No form of tuning seems to help. I’ve also noticed the grass. HAHA…yeah the grass um. Why does it virtually have no friction? Whenever I just barely touch grass the car goes out of contol. Even when trying to stop in grass it takes way to long to fully stop. It’s impossible to turn when trying to get out. Is it like this in real life? I’ve driven in grass before (a little off-roading) with regular tires and this doesn’t occur.

#2

Try to do all the braking before the turn. There are videos online to help with cornering. Try looking up details on hitting the apex, and cornering for the theory

#3

My guess is that the upgrades have increased the car in speed, accel, and braking much more than it did in handling.

Take the turn slow, do hot lapping…preferably on a track with a good variation of turns, then do lap after lap until you get an idea of what speed at certain turns you can handle the car on.

#4

Typically you don’t want to brake mid corner. But at 40 mph this shouldn’t be an issue. Increase your anti roll bar in the front, or increase springs stiffness up front. This will help keep weight in the back of the car while braking (prevent oversteer).

#5

It sounds like it’s a differential problem. If your car is getting loose too quickly under throttle after a sharp turn, then your differential is locking up too fast under acceleration. Tune the car again and this time go to the differential tab (last tab) and increase the acceleration bar in increments until it feels right. You might also want to soften your springs a little too.

Another thing you’re most likely doing is driving with TCS off. If you drive without TCS you have to feather the throttle through corners otherwise your wheels will overspin and lose grip.

#6

Is it understeering or oversteering?

#7

It’s like extreme understeer

#8

Take ur brake bias and change it from 50% to 45%. The car will turn in better. With that said there are a lot of things that are probably wrong with the tune and build but while braking that will help the car brake and turn at the same time…

Remember tires like to do one thing and only one thing (go straight or turn). To much front brake you get no turn in, not enough front brake you get to much turn in.

#9

Do you have Drag Tires on ?

#10

Nope, just race tire compound.

#11

If you break n turn with rear wheel drives they will slide.
Do the breaking before the turn n power through the apex.

Slow in fast out.

#12

Some people think putting all the power mods in a car will make it go faster. This couldn’t be any more further from the truth.
The first thing you should when you buy a new car is test drive it. Feel how it handles around turns, entry speed before a corner, how hard can you push the gas while exiting the corner and THEN you start to gradually put mods one by one.
Also do not try to brake midturn. Your braking has to do before the corner and feather the gas midturn.

#13

Go find Stella Stig on You Tube. Listen to him. Build one of his cars exactly as he does, and then tune it exactly as he does. Then, you know you now have a solid well built, well tuned car. After that practice driving.

Google, “HOW TO DRIVE FAST”. Then read some of the articles. The same principles that apply to driving fast in those articles, about the physical world, apply here, in Forza in the digital world.

If you are on a track, in a car with slicks, and you put a tire into the dirt, or onto the grass, your car is going to all wonky in a hurry. Half the car has premium traction, half the car has no traction. Racing slicks have almost zero friction on grass, when you compare them to friction on pavement.

Tuning:
Biggest mistake is setting brake pressure high. This does not give you more braking power. Braking power is governed by your tire’s ability to “grab” the pavement, not by the ability of your brakes to “grab” their discs. Turn brake pressure down to 80 % and start from there. Leave balance at 50.

Biggest mistake in driving is beginning your braking too close to the corner. The result is understeer, usually, and you “push off” into the weeds. Look for the little braking signs. usually a 5, 4, 3, 2 or 1, sometimes they are 200, 150, 100, 50, 25. Start your braking at the FIRST (highest number) sign. Once you improve your braking you can start braking later, at a lower number sign, closer to the apex.

Do like Jackie Stewart taught us, “get all your braking done with your wheels point straight. Never brake with your wheels pointed at the apex.”

After that, the next biggest mistake is “turning in” to late. First, you end up braking too late, then you end up turning in too late and you “Square off” the corner, also called LATE APEX driving. “That cemetery over there, is full of drivers who apexed late!” Sir Jackie Stewart (3 time Formula 1 GP Champ).

So, brake earlier, roll off the gas more smoother, roll on the brake more smoother, and turn into the corner sooner, hit your apex, and roll on the gas more smoother (DONT just WHACK the throttle open).

And, set those brakes up correctly.

#14

While I agree with most of what you typed the brake setting and adjustments are very important. The pressure and balance are all part of what a driver likes and can change the way a car drives. I personally would never take my brake pressures below 100% because you lose so much feeling and gain distance while braking. The balance is the important part. To much front brakes and ur car won’t turn. To much rear brake and it turns to much.

Back to the OP

Now like Swerve said your problem is putting all the parts on the car. Lower the car back into A class and keep the highest amount of grip attainable. Drive it like that and it should drive much better. You have to crawl before you can walk.

I would also recommend not trying to tune until you know how. Download some tunes and ask a bunch of questions.

#15

A good race driver has braking points (a tree, a patch of black pavement, etc., when brake signs are not available), turn in points, shift points, and “passing zones” for each and every car they drive, for each and every track they drive.

Have fun, and enjoy Forza.

Also, Jackie Stewart said “when you are out there, you are not racing the other drivers, you are racing the track. The car can only go so fast.”

What that means is, a given car, with a given build, and a given tune, at a given track, can lap that track only so fast. No faster. It is your job as driver to get as close to that potential lap time as possible. The other drivers have nothing to do with your race. Race the track, not them. If you pay to close attention to them, you will end up, pushing your car too far. You’ll try to make your car go faster than it is capable of going. You will brake too late, you’ll turn in late, and you will push off into the weeds, or at a minimum, slow your lap time.

That is not an excuse to ram folks. You must accommodate the other drivers in your racing. Google “auto racing etiquette”.

http://www.windingroad.com/articles/blogs/the-road-racers-guide-to-passing-etiquette/

This web site will help you.

#16

That’s you’re problem.

The car will be garbage more often than not when you put every upgrade on the car. This isn’t other games where more upgrades equal better.

In addition, change controller deadzone to 0-100. That will help with understeer.

#17

Just maxed one to see what it’s like…

Speed - 8.3
Handling - 5.8
Acceleration - 9.0
Braking 5.8

I’m assuming need for speed doesn’t have the forza aero so added one of the bmw options which gives the car a max PI of 823, also left it rwd.

Over 900hp and over 800lbs of torque, it’s also heavy at over 3000lbs and yes, it’s garbage.

#18

One thing might be that if you AWD swapped it it tends to put differentals fully locked, At least the rear differential setting… This might have something to do with it.

#19

I have found that with my brakes set at 74-80%, my brake feel is much better than if it is set higher. I have much more trigger travel to use before my brakes lock. Some folks like brakes that lock early, so they set their pressure higher. This lets you go from 0% brake to lock up much quicker, but modulating those brakes is harder because they lock quicker relative to trigger (or pedal) travel. The usual hint, is to move the brake pressure slider to the left if you are locking your brakes. Then, when your are no longer locking your brakes move the slider back to the last setting. In ultra high downforce cars, I can set my brake pressure much, much higher, but as the car slows, and the DF decreases, I have to be more careful about not locking the brakes.

If you like brakes that are “instant on” and you have the skill to modulate that, then go for it. If you like a more progression to your brakes, set the pressure lower. I have found that I like my brakes to get to lock out, just before I bottom out my trigger. I do want to be able to lock my brakes, but I don’t want it to happen until the brake travel is nearly used up. It lets me run the ragged edge of lock very easily. I have yet to find somebody that can out brake me, and still be well set up for corner enrty, when it comes down to it.

Balance is also key, and also, very personal. If your back end is slidey and locky when you apply the brakes, move the balance slider to the left. If your front is pushy and locky when you apply the brakes move the brake balance slider to the right.

Also, roll the brakes on smoothly, and very gradually lift the brakes as you approach your turn in point. AS your car slows, your braking grip decreases, as weight transfer and less downforce lighten the front end. It is not slam on the brakes, slam off the brakes, whack the steering over. It is roll on the brakes, roll off the brakes, and steer in slowly.

Good luck.