What should I focus on tuning for correcting braking oversteer during turns?
A lot depends on where the engine is, and what drive type. I’ll assume it’s rear wheel drive and front engine.
Personally, I would lower decel differential. Lower it 5% at a time until it feels better.
Otherwise, move your brake bias. In Forza 6, I tend to keep mine between 153 and 150. This thread will help you adjust as needed and explain why.
http://forums.forza.net/turn10_postst45486_Brake-bias.aspx
You can also loosen rear springs or stiffen front springs.
Or a combination of any of the above. I’d adjust in the order mentioned above, until it felt better.
Or ignore that completely because he has it all backwards.
Raise your decel
Push your brake bias to the left (more front) 150 he is referring to pressure has nothing to do with oversteer
Soften your rear springs (loosen is not even the right word for it)
Stiffen your front Springs
Add more rear aero
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One and/or a combination of these settings described by PTG Baby Cow is what you’ll need to address the problem you are experiencing with your car/tune.
PRKid
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And that, folks, is what you get when trying to help.
What tracks and classes would you like me to beat you on, PTG? Just name them… I’ll use my own tunes.
And you’re right - I should have say 50-53, not 150-153. Of course, if you are at 50, and move clicks to the left, it goes to 51, 52, 53, etc.
The rest, I stand by. Apologies for not using the proper word for it - “soften”. I guess I’m not cool - which is why I’m also not in a fancy pants online racing league. Stay cool, guy.
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It’s not the terminology you used - it’s your explanation of the setting’s function that’s wrong. Lowering the decel differential will make the car more prone to oversteer on entry, and raising it alleviates this problem. It’s not uncommon to see a car with 100% decel in Forza 6.
As for brake bias, move it slightly more to the front if it oversteers right when you hit the brakes. I personally run 45% or lower bias (as low as 37% in my Indy Car) because some cars just need it, but some cars don’t like it (the 458 GTLM comes to mind).
One last problem could be your shifting. If you downshift too quickly into a corner with some cars, the back end steps out. If you’re running automatic, just ignore this and read the above suggestions.
See - perfect example of constructive criticism without being a jerk - unlike PTG BC’s approach. A helpful, constructive post, and I actually learned something.
I’ll be the bigger man re PTG BC, though, and turn the other cheek - water under the bridge. I can be a jerk myself, sometimes - so that gives me something in common with PTG BC, and it makes me happy when I find stuff I have in common with others. We should be friends. :^)
don’t brake and turn
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at least you guys are trying to give advice.
the advice on forza says decreasing the deceleration setting can reduce lift-off oversteer in rear and all wheel drive cars. Thats a quote.
That is good advice, albeit very simplified. It is well known that you should do most of your braking while still on the straight. Braking and turning place different loads on the tires, and they don’t really like being asked to do both at once. Trailbraking can be an effective technique provided you have a good tune and you are skilled at modulating both the brake and throttle.
The advice on Forza is based on real world theory. It did apply in FM4. FM6 however, seems to like higher settings on the differential, unlike previous games. I’ve been running around 70/50 on most of my cars (RWD). Maybe they modeled the differential more accurately this time.
Nope that was not good advice. And he wasnt trying to give advice like you just did … thats for sure.
You re front arb’s may be too stiff for your rear and it want to shoot the rear around when braking and turning at the same time.
If you want to brake late in turns, adjust your pressure and brake bias accordingly. Play with the bias until it does feel good and the car doesn t want to rotate on itself.
All the above suggestions are good, as Uber mentionned, practice braking with the wheel straigth before commencing to turn.
Agreed. I apologize, I have replied on this topic so many times and many times people give mistaken advice and I’m often ignored, it’s more annoyance than anything. I want to give true advice to have the most competitive community and then there’s people that I sware give advice because they are threatened of competition (not you in particular). Shoot me an fr and we will do some racing sometime.
yep the game note has had it backwards for a while.
Usually uber understeer is quite helpful on the forums. He as a veteran in the game should know that basically every racing game and corner requires some degree trail braking and if you would like to improve braking only in a straight line is not an option.
ok well, if you want good advice I’ll give some.
1st you need to separate your braking from the turning to see if its your braking or your turning thats the problem. (Ie don’t turn and brake)
To test the brakes alone, put the friction telemetry up and just go fast and brake only in a straight line (with downshifting as normal). See if your fronts or rears lock up or loose traction 1st and adjust. I lower my bump 1 of the side that looses it(turns red) 1st. I keep doing this until I find a good balcance compromise between high speed and slow speed and lots of downshifting and no downshifting.
Now its not the brakes I work on corning.
I come into a corner like the 3rd corner of Laguna Saca with little to no braking and attack the turn with the friction telmerty up and see what happens. If it oversteers still its either sway bars, springs, diff.
Then you need to separate them. I am not going to go into too much details of how I separate them but if its sway bars (oversteers just straight up as soon a you turn as in just turning makes it oversteer) you need to lower the rear stiffness or raise the front. I would lower rear if your in a open wheel or rear or mid engine or a road car with race/sport roll cage. I would raise it if your got stock sway bars and or stock suspenstion.
If your oversteering more in the slower tighter corners and say understeer/not oversteer on exit like it got two balances that switch at the apex/off on throttle then its the diff. Raise the decel 2% until its fixed or until you hit 100% decal then i would then start lowering the rear sway bar.
If its just constent oversteer everywhere especially in longer sweepers like its undrivable oversteer its your springs and either sofen your rear stiffness or harden your front stiffness.
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Reading these pieces of advice makes me cringe… I would agree with about 20% of this.
I would give my point of view but the community isn’t exactly subtle…
@ THE CARJACKER13 - If you want a different and more approachable point of view message me on XBL (GT: GSR RoadRunner)
RR
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Who cares what the community thinks, or what they say? I see you towards the top of leader-boards all the time - and have chased you (typically without success) for many hours. And I always grab your tunes / builds when I see them.
Being a veteran member here, I understand your reluctance to post. I would very much like to hear what you have to offer though. I’m always open to new ideas and approaches.
Keep in mind, most of us are legitimately trying to help out, even if our advice is not all that accurate. We simply offer our thoughts as we understand the game, right or wrong. There are some, shall we say, “attitudes”, here on the forums, but they really are the minority.
Wait, so was I correct when I initially said to decrease decel? I typically lower it until I don’t feel any lift-off oversteer, and then start increasing until it’s ideal to my liking.