I was playing last night and noticed when going around bends my car would randomly stop turning or lessen the turning input ramdomly. All the other throttle/brake inputs were working just fine, but my guy would just lessen his turning or not at all so I would run off into the grass. His arms would mirror what was happening. Batteries are fresh in my controller and like I said, all throttle and braking inputs were precise. Anyone else having any issues with this?
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Left stick going out most likely.
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Yep. I had this problem in Forza 6 with my old pad. I thought it was a game issue but I couldn’t explain it (I looked at the steering telemetry and everything was fine)
I’ve noticed problems of loosing Throttle input with my TMX wheel when my car will be going around Corners or my rear end slides out.
I use ABS brakes and I lose power when my brakes lock up.
I seem to have my wheel tuned for Force Feedback OK now.
I mostly lose Throttle power when my rear end slides out.
I finally got Project Cars 2, so may be switching to that now.
I’ve experienced this too, it happens for me just at certain corners and with certain cars. I won’t experience it for weeks, then some combination of car and track I’ll hit on will bring it up.
One very consistent one for me recently is the karussell at the Nurburgring. We were running a race there in an organized league with a stock AMG GT-R. Probably 75% of the time, about 2/3 of the way around the karussell it would stop turning sharp enough to stay on the banking. If I attempted to slow down then suddenly the car would turn too sharp and I’d end up on the apron below the banking. A few weeks later we ran a different car at the same track and I didn’t have the problem.
Had the same thing the other night when running a Veloster N with a specific build on it at Laguna Seca. We did two races there, and the first race was mostly fine, had it happen maybe twice in 16 laps. Then during the second race it started. It just would not turn into the second apex of the Andretti hairpin even though it turn into the first apex just fine. It also wouldn’t turn into the first left of the Corkscrew, or the final two corners. Every other corner on the track was fine though.
What it feels like when it happens is that the speed sensitive steering is getting confused. Like it starts steering less sharply as if I was going much faster, then when I’d slow up it would suddenly steer very sharp. I have no clue what triggers it though. I experience it more in multiplayer lobbies than single player.
A lot of people go “oh you are going too fast” or “yeah that’s just understeer” or “your tires are worn” but I’ve been playing these long enough and struggled with understeer enough to know the difference. The front tires aren’t squealing and pushing and slowing up doesn’t cause the fronts to grip back up in a normal manner.
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The elite controllers are particularly bad about left stick fatigue once they are out of warranty. My elite controller doesn’t register inputs on the northwestern section of the left stick at all. I only found out when I went to play GTA5 and tried to do yoga. Don’t know any better way to test the joysticks on a controller off of the top of my head.
If you have GTA fire up single player mode and go do the little yoga side game, it will give you a good idea of whether or not your joysticks have dead spots.
It’s just like Morbin states. I play several other games with no issues. And it’s not with every car at every track. In this case, it was at the last corner of the Nurburgring GP circuit in a Porche. No other cars or tracks I played the night before had this issue, though this was the only race I did this particular night on single player.
For me I can reproduce it almost everytime on Monza track at the 1st chicane.
I start the race
go down the track
slow down to turn right into the chicane
then I cannot fully turn left out of the chicane. Happens almost everytime. I mostly use GT cars on that track. And it’s seems consistent. Other tracks it’s inconsistent and random.
I can even go up on the curb turning left and still loose turn radius. And no, I’m not going to fast. If that were the case I would not be able to turn right entering into the chicane.
It’s always mid turn, like the OP said, where you turn left to exit the chicane where you loose steering (as I call it).
And the OP, Morbid, etc are correct. It’s not understeer, its not tire wear, it’s not having steering on normal…it’s lost of control. I’ve also tried going from normal to next option (forget the name) steering. Still it’s the same.
I too thought it was my controller but as someone else said you can go days, weeks, month or 2 without issue then it creeps up out of no where. The only track where I can see it the most for me is the Monza track.
On turn 3 Curva Biassono I’ve noticed that I have to do slight corrections as i go around that bend on the track (not an actual turn just after the 1st chicane). It’s not smooth. Also, on turn 6 and 7 called Curve Di Lismo. It’s very real there as well. Sometimes I can get it perfect while other times I can’t seem to time it even though I perform the turn the same exact way. It’s like the turning just stops. Variante Ascari, turns 8,9,10 have never given me a problem. But they are the mildest in the game IMO.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f8/Monza_track_map.svg
Try Monza and see if you can exit (keeping up with the AI cars) the chicane like the other AI cars. I’m curious to know if other’s who are having that problem also notice that or not?
I found the issue and a temp fix. Jan Seyffarth, racing driver, did a video on Forza 7 using SLS AMG GT3 and basically found the oversteer unrealistic and felt that the physics didn’t offer slick tires but road tires.
“he needs to switch on TCS, ABS and even Stability Management, because the car loses grip unexpectedly mid-corner and when he’s early on the gas with the unnatural feeling FFB making it very hard to catch the rear. The tires drive like some kind of street car compound and not like grippy slick.”
starting at 3:25 In the video he seems to only mention TSC. Enable subtitles to translate to english.
starting at 19:11 he indicates that he turned on Stability Control. So that’s TSC and SC
start at 2007 he indicates that tire model/driving physics were not good.
So in essence in order to correct mid corner steering you want TSC and SC enabled.
I’ve been looking into why there is this sudden loss of grip for a few months now. It’s either the toy cars division, torque’y rear wheel drive cars or just rear wheel drive cars in general.
Some or worst offenders than others. The slights are those unexpected times turning a corner when you loss grip or cannot catch a slide.
I’ve tuned and tried many other tunes from folk that know how to tune and it’s all the same when it comes to grip IMO.
What I found to be a common demonstrator is peek tire temps/PSI. No matter what, peek PSI over 32.5 and temps over 200 F seems to always be associated with loss of grip. IMO explains what Jan Seyffarth felt there was something off about the tires indicating street tires. Other racing games (sims) use lower PSI (mid 20) for their racing tires while F7 tire pressure is higher, like street tire (cold). In that case Jan would be correct IMO. Most tune calculators require a higher PSI for F7 too.
Has anyone setup tire pressure using mid 20’s?
I’ve also used this video to determine tire temps and tire PSI. Which is were I got the idea that F7 PSI is higher than what other racing games use.
I’ve noticed this, it seems to happen on the same corners on certain tracks usually when turning right the car will go straight on then turn left. My analogue stick has recently started drifting to the left so I’m assuming this is the cause of the problem
You’ll eventually hear a pop sound which means it’s time for a new controller.
When I played Forza a lot (almost every day for months), I would go through controllers about every 6-8 months. I’ve changed my policy to once I start feeling numbness with the steering, I buy a new controller. Currently I’m a year with one controller. I use that controller for all other games and my new controller for esports only.
Forza has a lot of bad default tunes so have a fresh controller helps.
This is largely an issue with how the speed sensitive steering works on the pad. Many will argue here that it’s doing exactly what it’s supposed to and that those of us who do take issue with mid-corner grip have generally bad driving styles or going into corners too hot.
I have enough real world experience to know that what the game depicts is not very realistic. If anything, tapping or feathering the brakes mid-corner can help you correct oversteer/understeer and get the nose of the car to point better at the apex. Drivers on circuits do this all the time. But in Forza, attempting to lower your speed mid-corner so as to get deeper turn-in will get the driver to actually not only stop steering, but steer less, as if he’s getting ready to countersteer.
I don’t have a great deal of experience in Forza with a wheel, but on a controller it can behave very oddly at times. Best thing you can do is to do almost 100% of your braking before the corner, apply only as much steering as required and then use throttle modulation to steer your car out of turns.
Forza is no sim, I wish it were. But this is how it has been ever since Forza introduced speed sensitive steering in FM3. However, I don;t remember understeer issues like these where your driver would stop steering or actually steer less upon mid-corner braking. It became a thing since FM4 and has been there ever since. Not a single FM game where there haven’t been complaints over the understeer issues and mid-corner grip.
On the upside, physics have definitely been improved over FM6. but apologies, that’s a little off-topic.
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Update
Having tried 2 different gamepads, several different racing car games I’ve concluded that the gamepads are functioning correctly and have NO input issues.
So I went back to Forza 7. Only game that exhibited the OP behavior. Add to that odd lost of control through unexpected sliding and unexpected oversteer as mentioned in:
https://forums.forza.net/turn10_postsm930233_Mid-corner-steering-issues.aspx#post_930233
I have found a solution. It’s not a perfect one. A perfect solution I will describe at the end. Cars used are Forza GT and Toy Track Cars (which IMO the worst offenders).
Go into Assists and use the following:
ABS Off (you will need to feather braking or learn to brake to about +/- 60% using telemetry)
Steering Normal (Simulation is twitchy)
Traction Control ON <----this is a must as it will assist in exiting the corners, including mid turning IMO.
Stability Control Off <—I’ve found that with this on makes it difficult to get perfect corners. This helps in entering the corner
Next Go to Tune Setup
Tires: Front 25 PSI, Rear: 23 PSI <–Note: This is for rear wheel drive cars.
Springs > Ride Height: This is dependent on car but you want the Rear to be as low as possible. Front to be no more then 1.X difference.
IE: Front 3.4, Rear 4.3 (rear is as low as it goes)
Now mid range cornering is now more consistent for me. There is still some drift sliding but it’s far more controllable than before.
However, to full fix (or perfect solution that has worked for me) along with the other changes:
Goto Tires and Rims
Change width of front and rear as high as allowed (which will exceed homologation)
And…OR
Change Tire Compound from Street/Sport to Racing (which will change homologation)
The full fix may pit you against X/P PI rated cars. Don’t be alarmed still try it. I noticed a far better level of handling. Handling that mirrors other popular racing games.
And I found out there is very little tuning needed on top of that!
IMO, the main feature is Traction Control for high powered rear wheel drive vehicles. Try it. I’m now having a blast! 
Confirmed again with the 2018 Porsche.
If you want to stay within Division limits reset any current tune. For rear wheel driving cars do the following:
Go to tires and put the widest allowable.
Go to PSI and set fronts between 24-25 PSI and rears between 23-25 PSI. Watch your acceleration and braking times to get the best allowable.
Now lower the ride height Front should be about .7 to 1.2 lower than the rear. Put the rear height lowest allowable.
Again watch your acceleration and braking times to get the best times allowable.
There will still be some sliding but more controllable. And, it should eliminate drifting.
I experienced this last night with the Alfa GTV6 on one the Nürburgring GP circuit’s sharp curves (also a right hander). There was almost no turn in response to the steering wheel inputs. My first thought was the I entered the corner with too much speed. Now that read this thread I’m wondering if it is a game physics issue.
Here is an example of what happens when you lower the PSI of the front and rear tires.
Take note of the PSI and Temps from stock to PSI adjustments to larger tire size.
I usually ignore the 1st lap as I want to allow the tires a time to warm up.
All great examples although one of the best fixes is to simply do nearly 100% of your braking before the turn and not brake hard right before pointing your nose toward the turn. Use throttle oversteer to power out of turns. Won’t work for FF cars unfortunately.
I nearly ended up getting a wheel just for Forza but the feedback in these forums has made me reconsider.
Yeah, I too use to always brake before cornering. But I don’t have to any more. However, you aren’t the only one that noticed this physics oddity when taking a corner. My work around is some minor tune tweaks but the key is to reduce the tire psi. You can watch my video in this thread and see that I can trailbrake into corners.
I had a read at your post in that thread - isn’t it leveled at wheel users for the most part?
I have tried lowering front tire psi. It does help but can make the handling/steering sluggish at times. Can’t lower it too much for front-engine cars. The default 2.1 value works well for the most part.