I’m struggling to learn how to drift with the Logitech G920 wheel. I’m constantly spinning whenever I try to enter a drift. My stick arms can’t keep up and are getting tired. I don’t have a stick shift add on, so I’m e-braking with the clutch petal (I don’t feel comfortable drifting with clutch yet). I’m also wondering if seating position could be a problem. Thx fellow EPIC gamers!
I too struggle with this, for now I switch to my controller when I drift. lol
I also Struggle with that because my Xbox isnt Getting the Signal from my wheel in time.
Your particular issue sounds like input lag, if you are playing on a hi def TV, make sure you have the “game mode” turned on, if your TV has one. Modern TV sets use post processing effects to “improve” the image quality, this has a negative impact on response times for the TV receiving the input and then displaying that input. This is bad in gaming, as it creates a disparity between your inputs and what is displayed on the screen. This is surprisingly less noticeable on a control pad, but add a force feedback racing wheel into the mix; and the force feedback and inputs do not correlate at all to what is happening on the screen. ‘Game modes’ turn a lot of that stuff off, and improves the screens response times. So it is able to display the received input much faster.
There’s a February update for wheels that is supposed to update Force feedback and help with countersteering while drifting on a wheel. I use a thrustmaster TMX, and I have the same issue so it’s not a user error Or wheel specific issue, it’s a forza specific issue. I’m hoping they improve forza 4 on the wheel in the future. Feel free to add me. Gt: setick
Unless you are using the G920 on the PC version of FH4, It isnt the game. There is a bug on the PC version with that wheel, which makes it behave in a very odd way. But on the xbox one console; it works brilliantly.
Logitech G920 Xbox one console FH4 drifting - FH4 G920 wheel testing on Xbox One - YouTube
Thrustmaster T300RS PC FH4 drifting - FH4 T300RS wheel testing PC version - YouTube
What it boils down too, more often than not, is a combination of experience levels and poor in game wheel settings. Using sim steering can also cause issues, as it makes the steering input feel very sensitive, and more difficult to countersteer. To a level I have never seen in any other racing title that even remotely trys to simulate real world physics. Not to mention even more realistic titles, such as Assetto Corsa as one example.
My advice would be to use Normal Steering, and then try the settings in the video below as a starting point
G920 Xbox one console wheel settings - G920 Xbox One Wheel settings + centre spring test. - YouTube
Things to keep in mind when tuning FFB in FH4.
Force Feedback Scale is not an overall volume control for the force feedback effects, but it does control some of the dynamic effects; along with increasing the aligning forces from FFB Understeer and FFB Minimum.
FFB Understeer is what you need for self aligning to really work, it allows the mechanical aspects of the car to come through the steering; and is what you need when it comes to drifting. This setting is what allows the steering wheel to ‘self steer’, so that you can countersteer effectively. I have this at 100 for both my wheels.
FFB Minimum, is not a minimum force slider. It pertains to the pneumatic feeling of the force feedback. It basically allows you to feel the weight of the car while cornering as the tires load up to their maximum grip. Having this setting too high, can allow you to feel a very large drop off in forces once peak grip is exceeded. I run this one fairly low, enough to feel the weight; but no way near enough to feel that drop off in forces once peak grip is exceeded.
You also need to use some centre spring, how much depends on personal preference. Have it too high though, and it will hamper the other forces felt through the wheel. This setting aids in self aligning while in motion, but is dynamic; so allows self steer to still work properly while drifting. I had this at 100 in my video, but you could probably run this at 50.
(this setting is broken on the PC version with the G920, and causes the wheel to self rotate back to centre, no matter what position it is on, or if the car is moving/stationary. This setting works as it should on the Xbox one version with the G920, and works perfectly with my T300RS on the PC, so I have no idea what is going on there.)
Hope this helps.
i have been searching the www for hours now, watched sooo many videos… And still no progress.
I need to know if the XBOX ONE with Logitech G920 work properly now. Everybody says something different.
There is sooooo many people complaining about FH4 and G920. Some talk about “unplayable”. I had the same feeling too when starting the game. Then i found some setups for G920 and it feels really good when it comes to normal races. Dirt races are still a pain in the butt… Car flicks out left and right like crazy, countersteering like hell. But when it comes to drifting, noooo way. Im trying for 20 hours now. Different cars, different tuning setups, different techniques (clutch e brake ect), nothing seems to work. Its one out of two. go in for driift, get a 30 m drift, but not beeing able to control momentum, throttle or countersteering and you loose control. Or the other way, go into drift and instantainously loose control, or even dont get any control.
After i tried my controller for the first time, it took me about 5 minutes to drift around. Not good, but it told me car setup was fine. And the improvement scale from 0% controller experience in 5 min compared to 20 hours wheel and nothing… sooo frustrating.
Now there is 1 out of 20 poeple that says “NO, it all works fine”.
If there is anybody out there, who says its not that hard to get a clean drift with g920 on xbox. (and not getting used to 0,5 secs of delay from input to car reaction ingame)…
PLEASE share your COMPLETE setup for the wheel. And give some information about HOW you initiate your drifts (your playstyle) AND what cars you are using (4wd/rear ?!?). What season did you drift in…?
I wanna try something that actually somebody got to work properly and then try to adjust my playstyle. Or “leran” how driftin feels like with wheel.
Is there any updates or things you need for the wheel or plug in and start the game?
In my opinion it feels (compared to controller) like you loose all connection to the car. Like the momentum inputs come in too late or my countersteering when momentum kicks in is recieved too late by the console.
G920 wheel settings - G920 Xbox One Wheel settings + centre spring test. - YouTube
G920 drifting in 2018 Ford Mustang GT RWD - FH4 G920 wheel testing on Xbox One - YouTube
I cant go much into how I drift atm, but for the most part; I use techniques designed to use the cars inertia to initiate and extend the drifts. So this includes flicks, foot brake induced feints, things of that nature. Then I use the throttle in a modular fashion, and remain as smooth as possible.
View is in important factor to take into considuration, in car is better, as in the bonnet cam. Exteria views from the back of the car can create a disconnect, which is most likely the brains way of telling you “this isnt a natural view for a steering wheel in a car”. But you can get used to it.
There is a youtuber called “EvlRabbit”, who till very recently; used a G920 wheel on the Xbox 1 console. They upgraded to a full Fanatec setup now, but they have plenty of videos on their youtube channel in regards to setting up and using the G920 in Forza 7 and Horizon 4.
If there is a delay there, check your TV’s settings, as I noted above. If it has a “gaming mode”, turn it on. I cant stress this enough.
And make sure to ALWAYS turn Wheel Damping off when using a Logitech wheel, doesnt matter if its the G920, G29, G27 or the G25. Damping is the enemy to that wheel, and will slow it down stop it from been able to self rotate and react to what the car is doing.
I already set my TV on game mode. I just unplugged everything and will send it back to refund. A new very annoying problem occured. When drifting, or trying to, the wheel will end up in a 20° to 30° offset to the left, when driving straight. So I always have to recentre the wheel by unplugging it. This happened like every 5 minutes.
The internet is full of people with the same issue. And when you google “G920 Forza Horizon 4” the first results all say “unplayable” “not controlable” ect…
So, now i need to get a better wheel. But try google for top wheels for forza H4, and it tells you G920 is place 1-3. This has to be a joke. How much did Logitech pay them for that?
And people making reviews of wheels who arent actually not even Racing game players. So how can i review a wheel when i cant drive a car.
At the moment im trying to find out which wheel is best choice for forza horizon 4.
I had this problem with my old thrustmaster, but haven’t encountered it with my G920
Welp, a lot of people use a wheel for the first time and honestyly; they are not used to using them. They try to run before they can walk, and just often jump into the fastest cars going. Its the worst way to learn, and puts them off. Other people set them up badly. Case by case things unfortunatly.
With regards to the broken wheel, well, your particular issue often comes from a combination of poor settings and brute force. The cogs have most likely been sheered inside, they are only plastic. All wheels have their issues though. I had 2 Thrustmaster TX wheels, one burnt out after 6 months, the other was dead on arrival. I bought a G27 to use on the PC then, and I bought a G920 for the Xbox. I have had my G920 since early 2016, and still works perfectly.
If you think spending more money on a wheel will give you a better experiance though, it wont. If this is your first wheel, most of what has happened to you; is most likely down to user error. As much as you may not want to hear that, it is the most likely cause. So your problems will still follow, no matter how much you spend. But, even so, a little helpful advice.
The Thrustmaster TMX uses a mixed drive system of plastic cogs, like the G920. And a belt. So the sheering issue is also known to happen on that wheel also.
The Thrustmaster TX wheel has a full belt drive system, but you guessed it, the belts are on plastic.
The Fanatec wheels (clubsport V2 and CSL), should have metal parts the belts are attached too. But they get a lot more pricey compared to the other Xbox compatible wheels.
If you want to remove the easilly broken belts and cogs out of it, then there is the Fanatec Podium direct drive wheel that just released; but that is big bucks for that. And you would need a very robust cockpit rig to seat it on.
Realisticly though, ALL wheels out there on the market have their issues. Most of them are from motors burning out, belts stripping and snappings, or cogs been ripped apart. There really isnt a “better” wheel out there, just different.
Best thing I can suggest, is take a deep breath; and just not be so emotional about it. As with anyone, it really clouds the view of things; and makes it hard to take any new information onboard. Or review contradictory information to your current view objectivly. Such as you asscertion that Logitech “payed” for the reviews.
With regards to learning how to drive a car on a wheel, start slow. Cars with low power, and get used to how it handles. Then go to something more powerful in increments. Only try to learn drifting once you have the fundementals of car control on a racing wheel down, otherwise you will just trip yourself up more; and overcomplicate matters.
The G920, by the way, will take a lot of abuse; when the settings are done right. I have it on everything from iRacing, Assetto Corsa (racing and drifting), Pcars 1 and 2, and even rally games like WRC and Dirt.
Anyway, ive offered up my advice. So I will leave it at that. Just try to remember that not everyone has 20+ years of experience with racing wheels, some only have a few days worth before passing judgment on racing wheels, or a particular game. It takes time to learn them, it takes time to know how to set them up in games, and it takes time to get good with them. They are hard work, but it is worth it in the end. Even with the G920.
To stop your arms from getting tired you have to not have an intense grip
Hi lalyrn just come across this thread as was having issues as well, now using your recommendations and there is alot of improvement going to tune my parctice car(mx-5 miatia) and go from there thanks.
Just to add. I’ve given up trying to drift using my G920 on Windows 10. I constantly spin out yet using an X-Box controller for PC I can knock out 3 stars after a couple of practices.
Wait, so what you’re saying is, you can use your wheel on PC and it will automatically self-counter-steer?
because I’ve got the Logitech G920 and it WILL NOT self-counter-steer at all. I’ve tried changing every single setting in-game and out of game for it to work, and it just won’t. I’ve even tried re-installing the drivers etc.
@N2O KNIGHT Dont feel bad man, I had the same issues, takes about a week or two, but what worked for me pretty quickly was turning wheel rotation down to 240/260 to start with, get a low horsepower car, in my case it was the 1974 Toyota Corolla SR5, go on a big somewhat flat grass paddock/field and just start small, doing small donuts learning how the car reacts to your inputs, learning the grabbing point/counter steer points etc, Work your way up to figure eights doing the same again, then take it to the road, it worked for me 100% instantly. I think the biggest problem is people coming from controller/keyboard and expecting to link corners straight away and its not the case. Im 30+ years old, owned, driven and drifted many of cars and there is some real world similarities that only driving experience in real world can give you, like for me my body automatically breaks when I need to after driving a real car for 20+ years. As with any game as well, its muscle memory, practice and messing with settings. But for me, the wheel rotation was the biggest key, work your way from 240/260 up to 540/720/900.
TL:DR – the wheel rotation and lower horsepower cars was the biggest key, work your way from 240/260 up to 540/720/900 wheel rotation and start with low HP cars and work your way up.
2 more sssssrift zones, 2 more stars and I will forget about nightmare called drift in FH4.
Can’t think of any other game in which I had any problems with drifts and especially wheel settings…
Basically before any drift session I need to change wheel setting so car can only drift… forget about ‘normal’ ride.
(LOL) and reset after to be able to drive straight hehehe.
But I’m close. I think so.
Do you know if this countersteering issue with G920 on PC (not auto countersteering while on drifts) still happens on different games?
I hope you and everyone else here finds and reads this
It’s the mechanical trail scale, i turned it all the way down and set steering to normal instead of sim, i now control the counter steer!
I’m interested to know how things are going on this at the moment.
I’ve been using the G920 for several years (currently on my 4th one) and I always had the clutch pedal mapped to E-brake.
All was fine in FH5 till the Oct update.
Since then I can’t get the mapping to work at all.
It recognises the mapping in setup but doesn’t work at all in-game. No E-brake at all.
Been asking the support team to find out why and fix it but just keep getting fobbed off.
It still works in all other titles, just not on FH5.
Does it still work OK for you ?