Help dialing in my steering wheel PLEASE!?!?

I got a Logitech G920 Driving Force wheel. I’ve been trying to tune it and I’m just having no luck. I’m all over the track. Like, seriously, I can’t keep the car in a straight line. I’ve tried all classes of car. It’s not that. The main problem I’m having is that my brakes just don’t seem to be working. (I know that it’s registering because I looked at the view of the back of the car and the brake lights are coming on) On most turns I’m just sliding off of the track. I’ve tried it with ABS on and off. I’ve changed the deceleration numbers to both sides of the spectrum. No dice. What’s the deal here??

I do notice that the brake pedal itself seems stiffer than the other two pedals and doesn’t go down as far. I think it’s supposed to do this for feel but if not, please let me know.

As for spinning around like a new driver doing donuts in a snow storm…I need some obvious help dialing that in as well. Basically, any settings that you think would help someone new to using a wheel.

I really think I can get the acceleration and stability issues worked out eventually but I’m completely stumped on the brakes issue. I’m about to box this up and send it back to be honest. So, hopefully a kind soul will come along and help me get this thing dialed in. I really can’t imagine that a wheel should make me worse at the game!!

Just a bump. Maybe you use a different wheel, but I could really use some help on setting this up better. I’m just not sure what adjustments I need to make…

I usually play pretty NOOB settings - ABS on, Traction/Stab control on, etc.

Any help at all would really be helpful. As it stands it is unplayable like this.
Thanks!

When your wheel turns on and is calibrating press the brake pedal firmly three times to calibrate the signal.

My settings below. I also have a number of wheel friendly tunes shared.

Steer, Accel, Decel---------0-100
E-Brake and Clutch–Default
Vibration------------------0
FFB scale-----------------100
DOR------------------------540
Steer Lin-------------------49
FFB under steer--------5
FFB min------------------100
Wheel damper-------------0
Center Spring--------------0

I run all assists off but it shouldn’t matter if you have some on. Take your time and you will be having great fun soon.

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Thanks! Gonna try this out next time I hook it up! (Time for MNF!!) I appreciate your help!

Go to the general discussion forum and see the giant 60+ page thread about FFB settings.

We have talked about it a lot already.

The first post has the most updated settings information.

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Ok. I’m looking at that thread and it’s just ridiculous. 60+ pages full of lingo that I don’t understand. What is DOR for starters?

Welcome to wheel ownership. There is a lot to it and a lot to learn but it is necessary to get the most out of your wheel.

It’s not simple unfortunately, but we’re all in the same boat.

DOR is degrees of rotation.

Regarding your rocking issue from earlier. Try introducing a little but of damper into the mix from zero, just gradually add more until it stops.

I think I had to add about 3 points.

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Ok. I’ll look for that. New problem happening. Lol. The wheel keeps rocking back and forth on its own… Jesus, this has been an annoying day!

These are the settings I use on my G920 wheel, hope it helps.

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This helped quite a bit! Thanks!

If the jargon was too much for you, there was this bit in the first post:

NORMAL STEERING!!

my Settings:
All deadzones 0 - 100, clutch 0-0.
Vibration: 100
FFB Scale: 90
Steering Sens: 100
Steering Lin: 50
FFB Understeer: 0
FFB Min force: 80
Wheel Damper:0
Center spring:0

Start from there. But clutch deadzones might not be a good one as Dust uses a button on his wheel as a clutch for reasons I won’t get into.

Use the information in that first post to fine tune your wheel.

This will take time.

Probably more time than you would expect to get feeling nice.

And then later yet you might decide you need to adjust it again.

And again.

Until you get confident with what you know.

Until someone more knowledgeable than you posts something, which causes you to start the cycle again.

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I tried these settings. That seemed to get me going in the right direction. And then…not so much. haha.

One thing that is really tricky for me is that with a controller I could feel the vibration if I was giving it too much gas and lay off a little. There’s no vibration in the pedals so I guess I just don’t know if I’m over throttling.

I’m doing SLIGHTLY better. Not great though. I’m still sliding off the track on big corners. Hairpins are basically impossible. I’m spinning out frequently. I’ve tried a few settings that I’m finding with minimal success.

The problem is that I don’t know what to adjust to fix the issues I’m having. I’m just doing free runs and I’m finishing pretty much last. lol I guess I’m looking for more in depth info like - if this is happening, then try this. So, maybe part of my problem is understeer. I was fine with a controller. Now with a wheel, I’m terrible. And then I’m thinking that maybe I need different settings for different cars too. Maybe? My patience is wearing quite thin at this point.

The thread that is 60+ pages may be a good reference but I can’t read 60+ pages of this.

You cannot expect to resolve your issues in a day. You need a LOT more patience than that.

A week may not be long enough either.

The timeframes are longer than that.

You have to slow it right down.

For reference, I was not happy for a year.

Then I thought I had figured it out.

Then a few months later I was unhappy again.

Then after a couple of weeks got happy again.

This cycle has gone for two years now.

Thanks to that thread, my understanding is getting better. But still pales compared to others.

If you don’t have the patience, wheel ownership may not be for you.

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Try this.

Do one test on one track with one car.

A car that you like on a track that you like.

Change ONE thing at a time.

Set it to max. Drive, drive, drive.

Set it to zero. Drive, drive, drive.

Set it to middle, drive, drive, drive.

Take your time and figure it out.

Yeah, that’s what I’m having to do.

That thread is great but I just don’t have the attention span for reading a bunch of other people’s posts, especially when I don’t fully understand what’s being said. I will skim it and take what I can from it. I think the wheel will add some enjoyment long term. I just didn’t realize what the learning curve was gonna be. I’ve played a few versions of Forza. I always love it! I still have no idea how to tune a car though and now I have to tune my controller too! lol

Thanks for the help guys! Feel free to keep the info coming! I’ve taken something from everyone so far and I really appreciate the help!

Another thought occurs.

When using the wheel, don’t race.

Just drive the car on the track by yourself.

If you need to bang out some races for credits, pick up the controller again for the time being, until you get some confidence to do a race.

Then start with a lower difficulty drivatar setting at first and gradually work your way back up to where you were with controller.

Time is your friend and you are right in thinking the wheel is a long term investment.

That FFB thread has gold in it.

Mostly in that first post. Revisit it often in the coming weeks.

A fair bit of your current issues are going to come down to just learning how to drive with a racing wheel in all fairness, as there is a big learning curve to it. What I would suggest, is grabbing a fairly low class car, making sure it is completely stock, and just driving it around till you get used to it. Then slowly begin to move to faster and faster cars at a steady pace. Stick with road cars for the moment also, as swapping to GT race cars and/or open wheel race cars will complicate the matter. When swapping to a wheel for the first time, it is a case of having to learn to do everything again from scratch; and it can take a little bit of time to get used to it. Once you do though, it will all click into place.

The reason I say to stick with the road cars for now, is you can quite happily leave your steering rotation set to 900° (the maximum for the G920 wheel). When you swap to GT racing cars (and the like), you will find you may need to reduce the steering wheel rotation down to 540°/560°. And the same for open wheel race cars, in which you may need to do down as low as 260° in some cars.

Usually racing games that allow the use of racing wheels, will have what is called auto soft locking. All that means is that the game will automatically reduce the steering rotation depending on the car you are driving. Forza does not currently do this, but is something the devs have said they are aiming for in the future. So for now we have to adjust that one option in Forza, depending on which car we happen to be driving.

One thing I will say also, is learn how to drift on the wheel. This is good practice for learning throttle control, as well as just how to catch slides and control them. It will allow you to learn how to read the force feedback, and is a transferable skill when it comes to other racing games. Though obviously, you have to take into consideration that each games individual force feedback will always feel different to another games.

At the start though, where you currently find yourself; there will be a lot of frustration. You will have understeer, oversteer, and strange combinations of both. You will feel like your settings are totally messed up, no matter the game you play with your wheel. But a lot of the time, it boils down to unfamiliarity with the device you now find yourself using. Give it some time, take breaks when you feel you are getting too annoyed at the situation; and no matter the racing game, you will soon be driving around on a racing wheel like this -