Having to reset (unplug) Thrustmaster TX too many times

Hi T10,

FYI. Installed latest update to TX wheel v49 I believe.

Did a number of races online yesterday, and I noticed a number of things with the TX wheel playing FM6.

  1. The vibration from the wheel feels off, it’s not as sharp or tactile in feel anymore after successive races. I was thinking the wheel is overheating? But, I simply unplug and plug the power back on and the sharp or tactile vibration is back during the next race.

  2. Again, after a few races the FFB goes bonkers as well, the car just wants to pull only one way. I do the same thing in 1 above and problem is resolved.

  3. In one race there was a huge pile up in the first corner with the so many collisions, the FFB and vibration start going wonky! Again did the same in step 1 to fix.

Is the memory buffer for the wheel being overwhelmed by the physics engine that it can’t keep up with all the input? Or is it the internal processor in the TX wheel not able to keep up? Didn’t someone at T10 say the physics cycle for the game is 256 cycles/sec?

Anyways, I think the quickest solution would be to flush or reset the buffer for the TX wheel after every race to avoid problems with FFB and vibration after multiple successive races. Just my humble opinion.

It’s just so annoying to plug and unplug the TX wheel just the clear the problem every so often.

PS, also experiencing the same problem as others where the TX doesn’t want to cooperate anymore when I use the regular controller to navigate in the menus - the TX stops work properly when using it again in a race - the pedals or the paddles stop working or the DOR goes off or doesn’t work at all. And yes, I did have only the TX connected when starting the Xbox one as the primary controller before turning on the actual X1 controller later.

I’m in the same boat and the vibration rumbles on the whole tx-unit,which is very noisy…only on f6 ,the tx is very quiet in other games!btw is the ffb and vibration feeling in f6 good until it gets wild…

T10 devs, I did a multiplayer online 2 lap race last night on Nordeschliefe. The FF and Vibration (FF pulling to one side and vibration not as sharp and crisp) went wonky on the second lap as I was racing. This time I didn’t unplug/plug the TX after the race, rather I went to the Options screen and selected Controller function and hit the A button to accept and started another online race and it fixed the wonky FF and vibration, so definitely a FM6 software issue with the wheel FF/Vibration functionality.

I use to have that problem a lot when I played Forza 5, it always turned out to be a gamepad confliction with the game, the only way I could ever get reliable play was NEVER-EVER turning on the gamepad…which means no multiplayer communication via headset…ugh!!

This is all from Thrustmaster’s FAQ;
Completely resetting the Xbox One console’s USB ports
(in order to fix issues such as failed self-calibration, wheel not recognized,
some missing Force Feedback effects, conflict with the gamepad, etc.)

  • The USB ports on the Xbox One are always On (even when the console is Off)
  • To completely reset the console’s USB ports:
  • Power off the console.
  • Disconnect the power cable from the back of the console
    (the LED on the console’s power supply turns ORANGE).
  • Leave the wheel connected to the console.
  • Reconnect the power cable to the back of the console
    (the LED on the console’s power supply turns WHITE).
  • Power the console back on using the XBOX button located on the console
    (do not use the XBOX button on the gamepad controller).
  • Start the game using the wheel, without ever powering on the gamepad controller.

This is all from Thrustmaster’s FAQ (Notice how they never tell you when to turn on your wheel or plug it into the Xbox?);
Make sure that both your console and your game are up-to-date.
Step 1: Connect the headset to your gamepad.
Step 2: Power on the console with your gamepad.
Step 3: In the console’s menu, log in to your profile with the gamepad.
Step 4: Start up the game.
Step 5: In the game, press the A button on your racing wheel.
Step 6: Log in to your profile with the racing wheel.
Step 7: You can now access multiplayer mode with your racing wheel, and use the headset while playing using the wheel.

Please note:
To avoid the gamepad automatically switching to standby mode, connect the gamepad to one of the console’s USB ports using the USB cable or the Xbox One Play & Charge Kit.

My gut tells me that even with Forza 6, steering wheels make for such a small percentage of usage we are still just an afterthought in the game’s design and we are going to have to suffer again until they really want to fix it properly.