It should be, same time I got mine from same place, but you can check in the logitech software.
The firmware hasn’t been updated for about 3 years for a G920 though.
It should be, same time I got mine from same place, but you can check in the logitech software.
The firmware hasn’t been updated for about 3 years for a G920 though.
Thanks for the reply.
I assume that would mean plugging it into a pc rather than the xbox ?
Thats right. All firmware for wheels needs to be updated on the PC. Theoretically you should have the latest firmware the G920 has available, but its always best to check.
edit: Also, is anyone from the support team watching this thread? There is quite a big problem with the G920 on the PC versions of Horizon 4, as described in my previous above. It really needs looking into, as it severely effects the control and play ability of the game. It is slow to respond to feedback, feels heavily dampened even with the slider for damping at 0, and is very clunky. This is only on the PC version mind you, the G920 works flawlessly on the Xbox one version.
It’s awful, there’s a delay when countersteering and you need shedloads of lock - those little slides you’re doing as you get on the power, if I’m using a stock rwd car, I’d have to immediately put half a turn of opposite lock on and stop it otherwise the car will kick out into an unrecoverable slide (and I mean immediately, like fling the wheel with one hand as fast as possible the split-second it starts to scrub the rears).
Do you also have the sensitivity bug on the PC? Where it does nothing for wheel rotation angle (I think the best I can get it to use is about 450 degrees, but even at that there’s a horrible numb zone in the FFB for about an inch either side of straight ahead) and it just either slows down the inner 50% of the steering or speeds up the outer 50% with a step change?
It’s awful, there’s a delay when countersteering and you need shedloads of lock - those little slides you’re doing as you get on the power, if I’m using a stock rwd car, I’d have to immediately put half a turn of opposite lock on and stop it otherwise the car will kick out into an unrecoverable slide (and I mean immediately, like fling the wheel with one hand as fast as possible the split-second it starts to scrub the rears).
Do you also have the sensitivity bug on the PC? Where it does nothing for wheel rotation angle (I think the best I can get it to use is about 450 degrees, but even at that there’s a horrible numb zone in the FFB for about an inch either side of straight ahead) and it just either slows down the inner 50% of the steering or speeds up the outer 50% with a step change?
The steering sens slider in the PC version of FH4 (and FM7) is awful, and yeh, doesn’t really do much. In either game, on either of my wheels. Realistically, and wheels users like myself have been saying this for many years now. They NEED to add automatic wheel rotation soft locking, with an option to bypass it; if so desired. As well as a wheel configuration tool. Much like what Assetto Corsa, iRacing, and even Dirt rally has. That way we can set our wheels to their maximum rotation, and then the game can change it depending on the car. This happens in almost all other simulation based racing titles, and has been the way for a very long time. Forza is still the odd one out in this regard.
Hi I received a reply from forza support.
Jan 25,
Could you try these settings:
FFB 60
Spring 0
Damper 0
Min Force 50
Understeer 75
Sensitivity 50
Linearity 50
Inner and outer deadzone 0- 100 on steering, throttle and clutch (if he uses)
Inner - Outer 0 - 70 on brake
Could you start with normal steering before you try simulation steering?
Unfortunately it makes no difference on either the pc or xbox. It’s still a diabolical experience.
I’ve spent many hours now.
Could someone post the definitive settings that you are sure that work? (I’ve trawled the net and tried various settings from people who say theirs works but makes no difference to me). I’ve updated the wheel to the latest firmware. I have no problem on any other game, it’s just the forza titles. Also what do you think is wrong with the settings above as I got these from official forza support. It’s beyond a joke now
Okay, figure this one out, I moved my Forza 4 installation, because I was moving my Forza 7 install to another harddrive in an attempt to solve the not starting problem (it didn’t, anyone any ideas for that let me know, can’t get it past the splash screen).
Anyway, I launched FH4 after a few hours swearing at FM7 just to check it still worked and suddenly my cars are driving far, far better on the wheel. I can glide about with the rear sliding in the old V8 Holden like it’s no problem at all.
However, half my engine sounds are missing. And it’s still not quite right, just better than it was.
So now I’m wondering if the problem is some sort of bug during installation.
Okay, figure this one out, I moved my Forza 4 installation, because I was moving my Forza 7 install to another harddrive in an attempt to solve the not starting problem (it didn’t, anyone any ideas for that let me know, can’t get it past the splash screen).
Anyway, I launched FH4 after a few hours swearing at FM7 just to check it still worked and suddenly my cars are driving far, far better on the wheel. I can glide about with the rear sliding in the old V8 Holden like it’s no problem at all.
However, half my engine sounds are missing. And it’s still not quite right, just better than it was.So now I’m wondering if the problem is some sort of bug during installation.
After more than a month without trying the game with the wheel, Friday I tested again and it was far better for me too! It’s great now, actually! But I’m having engine sound problems as well! Sometimes the engine sound is stuck ina fixed rpm, and other times it’s just gone entirely, but it comes backs after a while. I didn’t move the game at all, so I don’t know if it’s a install problem.
It’s still a terrible experience for me, what settings are you using? The default settings? If not, please could you share your settings?
I’ve tried the ones recommended by Forza Support:
FFB 60
Spring 0
Damper 0
Min Force 50
Understeer 75
Sensitivity 50
Linearity 50
Inner and outer deadzone 0- 100 on steering, throttle and clutch (if he uses)
Inner - Outer 0 - 70 on brake
Makes very little difference. Normal Steering is terrible, but simulation steering is even worse if that’s possible…
It’s still a terrible experience for me, what settings are you using? The default settings? If not, please could you share your settings?
I’ve tried the ones recommended by Forza Support:
FFB 60
Spring 0
Damper 0
Min Force 50
Understeer 75
Sensitivity 50
Linearity 50
Inner and outer deadzone 0- 100 on steering, throttle and clutch (if he uses)
Inner - Outer 0 - 70 on brakeMakes very little difference. Normal Steering is terrible, but simulation steering is even worse if that’s possible…
I don’t know if it’ll help as I’m pretty convinced by now it’s not a settings issue but rather a bug/fault somewhere, but:
FFB 60
Spring 20 (doesn’t seem to work on PC anyway)
Damper 10 (just enough to stop wheel rattling)
Min Force 100 (more force derived from actual pnuematics)
Understeer 25 (less force from static geometery but still enough to stop any weird troughs, dips)
Sensitivity 50 (again, bugged on PC)
Linearity 45
Deadzones for steering 0-100, accel 5-100, brake 1-70
Well apparently “the G920 works flawlessly on the Xbox one version”
I really beg to differ.
Put center spring to 0 and whilst turning hard left under throttle the ffb becomes inverted and pulls the wheel towards full left lock, i posted about this, first post on page 13 of this thread.
this happens on FM7 also but if you put center spring to 1 or higher, it goes away, definately a bug in the ffb code because its shared between both games, logitech g920 tested, im thinking thrustmaster users dont have this bug?
TangoUK
Put center spring to 0 and whilst turning hard left under throttle the ffb becomes inverted and pulls the wheel towards full left lock, i posted about this, first post on page 13 of this thread.
this happens on FM7 also but if you put center spring to 1 or higher, it goes away, definately a bug in the ffb code because its shared between both games, logitech g920 tested, im thinking thrustmaster users dont have this bug?
TangoUK
I noticed the same thing with that. It’s easy to reproduce because it does it every time you start the game too, steer more than about halfway left when the game fires up and it just yanks the steering the rest of the way around.
Put center spring to 0 and whilst turning hard left under throttle the ffb becomes inverted and pulls the wheel towards full left lock, i posted about this, first post on page 13 of this thread.
this happens on FM7 also but if you put center spring to 1 or higher, it goes away, definately a bug in the ffb code because its shared between both games, logitech g920 tested, im thinking thrustmaster users dont have this bug?
TangoUK
There is something that’s not mirrored properly in the tire physics from left to right, I think it’s related to that. One-wheel-peels are almost always the left tires, and I have a capture of the FM7 RS3 LMS Rivals at Dubai where in left turns, tire telemetry reads both rear tires at, 0% friction and in right turns, both tires read 80-90%, sometimes both 100+%, even though the right rear tire is completely off the ground. Broken as heck.
Edit: Reading MadBuggy’s comment, perhaps unrelated, but still a problem.
I’ve actually given up now. The developers aren’t taking this seriously.
I’ve wasted too many hours on this. The game ‘officially supports’ the G920 but whoever has rubber stamped this obviously did zero testing.
The developers simply need to come out and acknowledge there is an issue and just say whether they are going to fix it or not so everyone isn’t wasting their time.
I’m playing dirt rally and project cars 2 now. I’m not going to try forza unless I hear of a concrete fix. Sorry to rant!
Dont apologise, that should be playground games job!, Its the complete lack of acknowledgement that astounds and frustrates me.
It also really harming the games coverage on platforms like Mixer, YouTube & Twitch because non of the sim racing channels will play it!.. such a shame.
If anyone is playing from an Xbox one, the g920 works perfectly there. Settings are shown in my post where I tested the g920 on Xbox and a Windows 10 pc. There is a link to a video that shows the settings I used in the Xbox console.
The issue with the wheel not working properly, is on the pc side of things. The ffb feels clunky, dampened (even with damping set to 0). Just sluggish and not very good. It needs investigating. My previous tweet didn’t seem to do anything, so I just retweeted it and tagged Mechberg and Helios. I just wish the support staff on the forum would at least reply to this thread and let us know they are passing this forward for investigation.
I’m glad you able to play FH4 with the G920 on the Xbox one but for the rest of us it’s a nightmare so please stop saying it works flawlessly because it really doesn’t.
I’ve tried your setting from the previous post and if I enter an off road race with RWD cars and unless I drive at about 20mph it’s impossible to stop the cars from spinning out on every corner.
Thank you for posting your settings and trying to help but I don’t see how this can just simply be a matter of settings?, do you drive with assists on?, I know you don’t drive with Simulation steering (and I don’t blame you) but I can’t see how you can call this flawless?
I’m glad you able to play FH4 with the G920 on the Xbox one but for the rest of us it’s a nightmare so please stop saying it works flawlessly because it really doesn’t.
I’ve tried your setting from the previous post and if I enter an off road race with RWD cars and unless I drive at about 20mph it’s impossible to stop the cars from spinning out on every corner.
Thank you for posting your settings and trying to help but I don’t see how this can just simply be a matter of settings?, do you drive with assists on?, I know you don’t drive with Simulation steering (and I don’t blame you) but I can’t see how you can call this flawless?
I am afraid I cant do that, as people will see the thread title, and the most recent postings in this thread; and may not always check through the previous pages of the thread. Thereby missing relevant information. By posting up and continuing to point out that there is a significant difference with the G920 via the Xbox one and the PC, I am highlighting that on a specific platform, the wheel behaves completely differently. This shouldn’t be the case. I know the force feedback works great on the PC with my T300RS, with zero issues. So that means something, on the PC side, has gone wrong for the G920 specifically. Possibly even other wheels that I can not personally test. The T300RS isnt compatible with the Xbox one console, only on the PC version of FH4. So what if this issue is also present on the TX wheel, or the TMX. Or even the xbox one compatible Fanatec wheels. This could potentially be a much larger issue effect all the xbox compatible wheels when used on the PC with FH4, for all we know. Or could just be effecting the G920 when used on the PC with FH4. Fact is, we dont know. But what we do know is, the G920 works, as I said before; flawlessly on the Xbox one. The issue is clearly on the PC side of the fence, so some unknown reason. Until T10/PG support staff acknowledge this, we have no further information; than what we have been able to discern through player-side testing. Its kinda lucky I have access to a G920 and a T300, in all fairness. Otherwise we wouldn’t know that only one platform is effected.
This is the second time you have called into question my driving ability. I have posted THREE videos from FH4 in this thread, two of which show me driving a loop past the horizon festival on fortune island, and driving up the mountain pass. As well as drifting down it, at both 1080° on my T300RS on the PC version of FH4, and at 900°on my G920 on the xbox one version of FH4. Not to mention showing you lap footage and leaderboard screen grabs from FM6, showing you I am fully capable of driving top 50+ times without assists. How many more times am I going to need to prove my in game driving ability to you?
From the last time you called my driving ability into question.
Sick to death of people like you around here assuming someone must be ‘bad’ at driving, just because they have a different experience in game to them; or because they dont give the answers they want to see/hear. You wanna see what I can do in racing games, click my forum signature. It has a hyperlink to my youtube channel. Then you can make your own mind. Or, you know, you can look at my posting history on this very forum. Where you will easily find posts of mine that contain screen captures from of the leaderboards of various forza titles from over the years. Here, I will help you out with 2 of those items. To give you a head start.
I use normal steering in Forza. If Simulation steering is actuate as a steering model, then either T10 hit the jackpot, and every other simulation based racing title of the past decade+ has it badly wrong. Or vice versa. That’s the opinion I have held since simulation steering was first added in Forza Motorsport 4.
Next time, drop the attitude. Because it wont get you much help around here, or anywhere else for that matter.
The post I made with a break down of what does what with the wheel settings, which will be very helpful for anyone using the G920 on the Xbox one console with FH4. As well as other wheels on the PC with FH4 (such as the T300RS). This is the post that includes a link to a video my youtube channel, which shows me using my T300RS on the PC from live gameplay footage. (highlighted to make it easier to find). You can see what assists, or lack there of, that I am using in the video.
Your posts are filled with so much misinformation, its not even remotely funny. Yes, its true. Force feedback and wheel support in previous forza titles left a lot to be desired. It was a lack lustre experience all the way. FM4 was ok FFB wise, FM5 saw no improvements. FM6 saw the addition of a really strong damping effect, as well as pneumatic force drop off as soon as traction was lost on the front wheels. With only ‘Force Feedback Scale’ as the adjustable option, it made the experience on a wheel usable, but awful. Especially when it came to drifting.
FM7 made some dramatic changes, with plenty of different options to adjust. These options, if set appropriately, gave proper aligning forces for the first time. Not to mention the ability to FINALLY turn off that god awful damping effect, and lower the pneumatic force effects. The force feedback felt a lot nicer, but only in regards to aligning forces and weight. Road feel was nonexistent, so left the wheel feeling lifeless. Still, the experience was far superior to FM6 (and every Forza title before it). But they are still missing out automatic wheel rotation soft locking, even with the most recent FFB update FM7 received just before Christmas.
Now we have FH4, and from day one; the FFB has been very good. Not to mention finally having road feel in there. Aligning Forces also seem stronger than the release version FFB of FM7 as well. Its a far better experience overall.
But this is where the issues enter. The names for the FFB adjustment sliders are confusing. This was fixed in FM7 with the recent FFB update, and the new naming convention makes a lot of sense. FH4 still uses the older naming scheme, and it doesn’t fit with ANY other racing game. Not to mention a lot of people call for turning off Centre Spring, which I have found in FM7 and FH4 to be a massive mistake.
If you want you wheel to have good aligning forces, which you will need to countersteer effectively. Then you need to have settings that allow that to happen. This, I have to assume, is where people are going wrong. Along with having copious amounts of damping set, with barely any centre spring. But I cant be certain, as very few people will do as I requested; and post up their current settings. But it fits with not being able to anticipate or control the cars once traction is lost.
If you are playing on the Xbox one with either a Logitech or Thrustmaster wheel, then you will need to set ‘Force Feedback Scale’ to personal taste. I have my G920 set to 75% when I use it along side the Xbox one version of FH4. If you are playing on the PC with a Thrustmaster device, or use a fanatec wheel on either the Xbox or the PC. I highly suggest setting the in game ‘Force Feedback Scale’ to 100%, and adjusting the ‘master gain’ on your wheel hardware itself. Such as in the Thrustmaster driver software, or on the fanatec wheel itself. My T300 is set to 60% Master Gain in the driver software, as an example. But in game I have it set to 100%.
Centre spring, as mentioned above. A lot of people turn this off. DONT. This is a dynamic force, which will aid in self aligning while the car is in motion. This is a necessary effect. I have this set on 100 currently, for my T300 and my G920.
Wheel Damper, I also see quite a few people having quite a lot of damping on. This is actually bad, as it adds artificial weight; and saturates the wheel. This reduces the effectiveness of all the other force feedback effects, as well as severely hampering self aligning forces. On a Logitech based wheel, you want this turned to 0%. I also use 0% on my T300. The more powerful wheel you have, the more chance there is you will need some wheel damping; but we are talk small amounts only. Even in that circumstance.
If you want to have good mechanical trail feel, then you need FFB understeer set high. I run this at 100 on both my T300RS, and my G920 wheel. This effect is essential for aligning forces!!!
Minimum Force is a very confusing option. But it pertains to the pneumatic trail effects. Essentially, tires. If you have this set high, you will get a significant drop off in forces. From what I have experienced in game, this also increases/decreases the weight of the wheel while cornering. I have this set at 20% for my T300, and 30% for my G920.
My wheel rotation, I change here an there. It all depends on what I am driving. I tend to change this more in FM7 than I do in FH4. For the most part, I run full 1080° on my T300RS in FH4. Even while drifting, or doing rally races. 900° for my G920.
FH4 wheel cam footage I just recorded for the sake of this thread. I used a fully stock Shelby GT350, and a drift tuned Mustang. Settings as described above, and wheel rotation at 1080°. You can see in the footage while I am drifting, that the wheels self aligning forces are very good, and very fast - https://youtu.be/RtEpF0y5xUA
People still need to also check their TV’s, and make sure any ‘Gaming Modes’ are turned on. Input lag is a very real issue when it comes to playing games on an LCD/LED/OLED tv set. The input lag that some TV’s produce, can make it seem like the wheel isnt responding to what is happening on the screen. It makes it impossible to read the force feedback. The information you receive on the wheel is fine, but what you see on the TV itself is delayed. This causes in massive disconnect, and destroys any hope of a nice experience. Racing games, and FPS games, which are very fast paced; and rely on fast reaction times. Are the main places input lag will be noticed.
Something else to keep in mind. The FFB will feel different in both FM7 and FH4, depending on what car you are driving. Or how that car is set in its tuning. It is not necessarily a good idea to go back into the FFB settings and change everything, as sometimes the different feel between cars/tunes; is correct. Just take out a front engine, rear wheel drive car. Then take out a mid engine rear wheel drive car right after it. Notice the lighter steering feels on the latter engine/drive layout. This is showing the lack of engine weight over the front wheel axle, which is an expected result of the engine layout change.
And the post that very clearly, shows me using the G920 on the Xbox one version of FH4; where the wheel is working flawlessly. Its very important you ACTUALLY WATCH the videos I have posted, again, they are highlighted to make them easier to find.
Ok. So to double check my testing, I hooked up my G920 and loaded FH4 on my Xbox one. On there, the force feedback works as I stated it does in my previous postings. Only thing I had to change in the settings, was the Force Feedback Scale; as I mentioned in my post in regards to the settings. On top of this, I tested the centring effect on the wheel while at a stand still by turning full lock and letting go. The wheel stayed where I left it, as you can see in this video -
I also did the same run on Fortune Island, as I did previously with my T300RS -
As you can see, the effects are as I described all along… But!!!
In the interest of being thorough, because now I have information on whats happening and where, it just makes sense to double check everything. I plugged the G920 into my PC and loaded up FH4 on there. Now this is where things get interesting, and by interesting. I mean very good for you. There is something wrong, least now there is anyway. For some reason, you are right, the wheel just wants to self centre. It doesn’t matter where the centring spring slider is set either, at 0 or at 200, it will always return to centre. On top of this, the Force feedback itself is off as well. Its clunky, and feels dampened and slow; even with damping turned off. As it was in my Xbox one test with the G920, and as it was on my T300RS. I closed the Logitech software, just to make sure it wasn’t overriding the wheel; but the G920 on the PC with Horizon 4. Still acted the same.
Because you told me what is happening for you, I was able to better test this; and now we have a point of failure for the G920 with the PC version of Horizon 4. And it is absolutely something that T10/Playground and their support team, needs to investigate. Thank you for finally telling me what I needed to know, because now I can back you up; instead of us bickering at each other. I really hope someone from the support team investigates this issue for you. It is out of the scope of what settings can do, unfortunately. Still, I am pointing T10 support and Chris Esaki on Twitter to this thread (and this post). I hope they check it out.
If possible, I would highly recommend people with a G920 wheel; use it on the Xbox one console itself. The wheel works flawlessly on there. Whatever is happening on the PC version of Horizon 4 with the G920, it definitely needs looking into.
Hopefully this will help - https://twitter.com/ialyrn/status/1087837090199621634
You can “beg to differ” all you want!
Well apparently “the G920 works flawlessly on the Xbox one version”
I really beg to differ.
I’ve put in the leg work to find out where your problem stems from, and to possibly find someway to resolve it. Unfortunately your issue on the PC side of things, isnt fixable by end user settings. Something is broken on the PC side of the fence with the G920, and so far there has not been a single acknowledgement from the support staff yet. Ive tagged a lot of T10 people, as well as Forza support, on Twitter. There has yet to be a single response to it.
Instead of constantly trying to fight me all the time, work with me. And lets try to get someone to acknowledge this thread, and get this issue with the G920 on the PC version of FH4 investigated, and hopefully resolved. So far, I am still the only person trying to help you.
I personally dont care about the PC version, that’s not my concern. What is my concern is the broken Xbox One version and you calling it “perfect” & “flawless” is rubbish and what’s more is if someone from Playground Games DOES! eventually!! look at this thread they’ll see your comments and think, Ohh well they say its flawless! and then ignore the rest of us.
You keep banging on about your driving skills, I don’t care. You’ve made two videos of you driving around the roads on FH4 & some posts of leader boards from another game, again they dont mean
or prove anything.
Can you post a video of you racing, off-road in a RWD car and not spinning out?
I have spent a lot of money on this game & this wheel & I’ve spent a lot of time!, trying to get it to work properly.
I know you’re only trying to help, thanks but i suggest you help the PC problem and leave the Xbox one alone because we aren’t going to get any real help if you keep muddying the
waters with you claims of perfection & flawlessness!