Ever since I played one of the tag game modes in Forza 6 I notice my cars front wheels would lock up causing me to not be able to turn the car unless I let off the brakes, At first I thought it was just a feature of that game mode but now no better what I play or drive all my cars do this. I tried to change the balance of the brakes to the rear and the cars just spin out as if I was hitting the E-brake. Is there away to change it back to normal? I need to fix this cause now the game is unenjoyable to play.
Watch your replays and turn telemetry on. You’re probably braking too hard and too suddenly.
Practice braking more gradually. It can be hard to learn on the triggers of a controller but it is very doable.
Are you running without ABS? You’re probably just locking up normally
Try adjusting brake balance, and brake pressure in your tune settings. Depending on the weight distribution of the car, brake balance and pressure can greatly affect the performance of the car. Also if you use ABS off gradually applying the breaks helps with a smooth deceleration. Camber and toe can also affect some of the physics under heavy breaking, having those adjusted properly will also help increase stability. There is also a way to reset to default tune setting using the back button in the tune menu.
Adjust the brake pressure to your liking
I believe by pressing the start or select button in the tuning menu there will be an option to revert it back to the default settings
Also try turning ABS on if you are running without it, that it most likely why you are locking up
I find with the Xbox One controller it is hard to run ABS off without locking up due to less trigger travel compared to the Xbox 360 controller
I actually find it easier to run without ABS on the xbone due to the vibrating triggers, with the 360 you had to listen and nothing else. I can’t brake worth a shit anymore if my battery gets too low for vibration lol.
2 Likes
try dead zone 0 and 100
Uber is correct with the deadzones. In Forza 4 there was no need to adjust them. In Forza 5 and 6 I found the brakes would lock up with the same amount of trigger travel I was use to in Forza 4. I currently run my deadzone at 5 inside and 95 outside for both triggers. It fixed the problem for me.
To adjust the deadzones, go to the controler settings on the last page of the main menus. Then press X to get to the advanced options. This is where you can adjust all your deadzones.
I run ABS off only and you need some feeling braking as hard as you can but not locking tires. For the most cars I increase brake pressure by ~120-140%, depending on how early the tires lock. I recently got my T3PA pedals with the brake mod and now you can push really hard until tires lock, I love it!
Probably you are braking too hard. Try to be softer and get the feel with the brakes.
You can also try to tune the diff on desacceleration near to the 0% of locking.
It was a problem in FM5 as well, it’s a pretty nasty way to do it, and it should have been fixed in FM6.
The problem is that full braking is somewhere around 50-60% of travel, and I assume you are just pulling the brake trigger full and locking up, and there are two ways you can tackle this.
-
Buy a brake upgrade and adjust the pressure.
-
Learn to threshold brake by applying just enough pressure to the trigger to enable you to brake fully without locking the brakes, you can also use the trigger “buzz” to inform you when your brakes are locking, so if you feel the “buzz” reduce trigger pressure.
In FM6 you can get away with hardly applying any trigger pressure and still get good braking, just needs learning, but it’s a pain when you go back to a game that does it properly…
Things you can tweak. This only really applies to locking when braking in a straight line. Locking a loaded axel is a bit more complicated.
Adjust tire pressures until both axels are displaying similar pressure when running. I generally aim for around 28psi but so long as both front and rear exhibit similar grip it’s OK.
Try again.
If you’re still locking fronts soften the front suspension. (This is trial and error but go about 10 clicks at a time). This will help reduce the negative effects of weight transfer.
Try again.
If you’re still locking fronts move bias to the rear by 5%
Hopefully after a bit of fiddling you get both axels to lock (more or less)
Once you get to that stage adjust brake pressure until you can brake hard without too much locking.
At the end of the day when you slam on the brakes somethings got to give and in most cases it’ll be the fronts. You’re only trying to minimise it.
Top tip. When fiddling with a tune save it as something like “In Progress” or “Tinkering” or whatever so you can always revert to your original setup at any time. Only save the changes to your race tune when you’re sure you’re happy with them.
Hope this helps. It’s basic but covers a couple of the causes of lock up.
1 Like
Also, raising the front ride-height a bit should help too (if possible), especially if you don’t want to soften the front suspension too much because it hinders turn-in response.
Learn to threshold brake.
That’s the point at which the tires are squealing, but have not yet locked up. It’s easier without ABS (in the game, anyway).
I’ve been playing the game swapping from triggers to stick for braking/accelerating, and honestly the triggers are far more sensitive to lock up than the stick.
All cars having their brakes locked up? Not at all… you need to make smooth and controlled movements over the triggers. Plus 0/100 deadzones help. If you’re playing with the default deadzones, there will be control-related problems. By setting the range to 0/100 you’re getting the maximum amount of travel for triggers and a.sticks.