I’m somewhat familiar with vehicle dynamics, and how changes will affect the car. The hardest thing for me in this game is getting RWD cars to hook up on exit. If your solution is AWD swap I don’t want to hear it. I typically soften the rear (springs, dampers, ARBs), and add a smidge of rear toe in. What do YOU do? I’m always eager to learn more about vehicle dynamics and tuning.
If you are putting max hp into something other than a supercar/hypercar then awd swap. Sorry.
Max rear tyre width and best compound.
Lower accel diff.
Lengthen gears.
Dont go nuts with camber.
Tune the car to turn easily so that you are straight by the time you want to gas it.
In conjunction with softening the suspension, I also lower the rear tire pressure to the point that I get ~29.5-30.5psi., with the tires good and warm. As mentioned, wider tires help; as well as having the sidewall at 35-40mm. I believe the shorter sidewall reduces sway from the tires. That’s speculative, however.
There is a small bit of sway that can result from these adjustments which can largely be tuned out of the car by readjusting sway, and rebound stiffness. YMMV.
This will help reduce excessive wheelspin, however, it can’t always be eliminated.
In Forza 4 I did a good amount of research in rear wheel drive traction for drifting and laptimes.
One thing that definitely helps is rear weight. If you pick a rear or mid engined car there will be more weight on the rear wheels providing traction. The downside of this is the neutral balance in the car, as it naturally tends to keep rotating and thus will oversteer. Luckily these kinds of cars often provide the option to mount really wide rear tires. This compensates for the weight balance and provides even more traction.
Something you can do with the tune is to optimize weight transfer to the rear. You can do this by tuning springs and damping after you make a neutral baseline tune. Try and visualize the weight transfer and adjust the damping to make the transfer you want easier. So for maximum exit speed with rear wheel drive you want the rear going down and the front up easier. You can make this happen by respectively softening the front rebound and rear bump. Note that the opposite motion will feel more stiff in comparison, so you probably have to give up some entry speed if you do this.
Anyway getting your head around weight transfer and tuning the damping accordingly is something I’m still working on as well.
the springs are pretty much weight dist + ride height and the rest depends on the car.
edit: oh and it helps if you mostly make power up top. so for cars with less traction than I would like I give cams the priority.
@ThaJay,
You can easily observe weight transfer in the telemetry. With the suspension highlighted, is very easy to read what’s going on with regards to weight transfer.
One other thing; you can downgrade the flywheel, and driveshaft. This will slow down the speed at which the engine winds up. This will slow the accelleration speed slightly as well. There’s always going to be a compromise somewhere.
You should never use flywheel upgrades anyway.
I’m very new to tuning, so would you mind explaining why that is?
It has no meaningful impact on performance. Literally you won’t be able to tell.
It’s just an upgrade that reduces weight. That’s it.
If you’re noobing it up with automatic shifting it has a very minor benefit. If you use manual or manual with clutch you should avoid the upgrade like the plague. You’re better off using that PI on something else unless you there are no other upgrades to use. Because of the wonky PI calculations I’ve found that I’ve needed to use the upgrade because the only other upgrades available were tires.
I completely disagree with this. I use the flywheel in nearly all my builds as in my opinion you can absolutely tell. The fly wheel make a difference to how responsive the motor is to throttle input,
my rules of tuning (and I’m a tune shopper mostly)
More Grip = softer (this applies to tire pressure, springs, ARB, etc)
More oversteer = front softer then rear on sliders. This would equate to min front on ARB max Rear and that most you can get out of ARBs
One aspect overlooked is diff
My simplified rule to this is to have the most accel diff as I can stand with out excessive tire spin (throttle control) if I’m having trouble smoking rear tires on exit I will reduce the accel dif
Exact opposite with revel dif. Less equals more off throttle over steer and I get it as low as I can stand per how car handles.
For rebound I tend to slide the sliders away from each other such as the arbs to get more oversteer under transition (accelerating, braking in and out of turns but totally not sure what best method is
Note it’s a game and this is just a starting point. Sometimes stuff works for no apparent reason and for me the laptime or my ability to do one is the only measuring factor that matters not. Whether the theory is sound
The build is much more important then the tune. Especially in Horizon
I can’t help with AWD diff which is main reason for shopping tunes in FH3. I don’t have a need to learn yet until I really start going at the leaderboard and need to tweak build/tune for me for specific track. But as far as an overall, all round. I find it’s much quicker to use Jamie, SatNite, Raceboy, Don Joewon Song, Bleak Genius, Swerve, infidel, and others. But that’s my main staple of go to tuners.
***Just in case your new
I highly suggest using one of the above tunes. It’s much better to learn how to drive top tunes prior to tuning. Unless your not interested in doing rivals times. If it’s a goal to be fast start in someone else’s tune and go fast then the individual tuning for you will accentuate what you need instead of masking issues in your driving that need improvement.
That’s what I use flywheel and drive shaft for. When I can’t build any more grip or power (the build will be at 99 or 00), I put as much flywheel or drive shaft as possible without raising the pi above the class.
I have read everything you all have posted and you are all correct. You need a combination of everything that has been mentioned. But no vehicle, tune or tuner can control your throttle. That part is up to the user. Sometime it’s the user that needs to be “tuned”.
Now for vehicles that have a torque band that starts around 2 or 3 thousand and you try getting out of a turn quick and smooth that’s where the right trigger comes in to play. Same with tunes that have supercharges or turbos in the higher rpm’s. The user needs to know how to use the tune.
Let’s not start knocking on each others suggestions or how we build and tune cars. The guy just wanted some ideas and answers from people on what he can do or how he can improve his exit corner grip.
I wasn’t knocking him its his view, mine was different. If people want idea’s then they need to see wait lots of us think.
If we remove pi from the discussion then flywheel upgrades do improve responsiveness of the engine on acceleration, have detrimental affects on decel and if traction is already an issue it is made worse, other things being equal.
Combining flywheel upgrades with longer gearing though you will avoid making traction worse.
I will continue to spend my pi elsewhere though.
I always set the diff at 50% for accel and decel, and work from there. Try to set your diff to corner as tightly as possible without starting to slide. Remember, flooring it in a corner is a stupid idea.
I always add a tiny amount of toe-out if my car is feeling too loose in the corners. Don’t overdo it or it’ll feel really loose in the straights.
Don’t add more than -2.0° of camber in the front or rear. It’ll cause extreme oversteer. That’s why drifters add so much camber to their cars.
Tune the suspension and anti-roll bars so that the rear is about 10-20% softer than the front. That’ll allow higher diif settings without ruining the handling.
Make the gearing long.
Lower the tire pressure in the rear slightly. Your tires will warm up faster.
Roll into the throttle instead of flooring it out of corners.
You shouldn’t be putting 1khp or even 500 ish hp in a rwd car if you want it to grip in corners.
2nd most important thing is throttle control, its a rwd car and u have to let up the gas to let your tires catch the road. once you have that down u can go full throttle(assuming your torque isn’t too much for your tires to handle)
if you’re having huge problems with controlling your throttle i’d suggest getting an engine that is naturally aspirated. A lot of people use turbos(mostly scrubs who just want to wheelspin), or they have awd grip. having a turbo is hard to control if you’re using a keyboard. if you’re skillful enough to control it with ur controller or anyth and u feel its not making your car spin out then fine.
softer rear arb is good but too much and your car will understeer. also if your rear springs are too hard your car cannot properly cushion the g forces and ur tires will start slipping, too hard or too soft is both bad. it takes a long time to find that sweet spot.
i usually put some negative camber on my rear tires to get that extra lateral grip, but it will one way or another affect straight line acceleration and braking distance. I put about 0.5 degrees, too much and i lose traction upon accelerating from 0.
tinkering with the differential does help, but i havent done enough experimenting on my cars enough to comment about this. hope i helped.