Every single RWD tune I work on I seem to spend about 2-3 days trying to stop the stupid rear end from floating around and trying to make-out with the front end.
Any pointers besides buying car sized condoms? because the way things are going, I don’t want 15 little cars to have to feed and change the oil.
Disgruntled Meow.
hey kitty i go for smaller arb on front and larger on rear seems to be more stable for me…in the range of around 15-18 front and 18-22 rear hope this helps
I’m usually the complete opposite normally but that’s usually because I need the rear to be more stable because I have to much power lol.
Both ways work though u just need to find what u like best
There are many reasons for which a RWD car looses grip in the rear tires (I assume that’s what you mean by floating around?) With RWD cars, if you are pushing the car too hard, the rear end will loose grip even if it’s a great build/tune. Also a poor build can be the reason (a bad power/weight ratio, wrong tire thread, rear tires aren’t wide enough…). Or it can be something wrong with the tune… Can you perhaps post the build and the tune you are having trouble with? I might be able to help 
run low diff accel… 16to25. try starting with roll bars 1.00front 10.00rear then keep raising the front roll bars until the car doesnt oversteer/slide for you. try 1.00-10.00 10.00-10.00 20.00-10.00 ect. finding the sweet spot with the camber and rear toe will help too. and rear rebound.
Thanks! I’ll see if this next tune has the same issue and post it up if it does.
I eventually solve the problem, just takes so much time. I’m happy for all the tips you gave.
If you have spent 2-3 days fixing it on a few tunes haven’t you already worked out what fixes it?
Shouldn’t you adjust your starting point tune based on what you have learnt? or at least use the same fixes that have worked on other cars?
That would be too logical
I do try that, but it doesn’t work as well as one would think.
Thank you for the reply though, it is appreciated.
It depends on how much power the car has, how much it weighs, and how that weight is distributed.
If you’re losing grip and the rear end is sliding out due to wheel spin, start by looking at your acceleration differential.
If the back end is coming loose during the beginning or end of a corner it can be due to your springs or damping.
If the back end is coming loose mid corner, it may be your anti-roll bars.
For a good starting point, try setting your Rear Differential acceleration and deceleration settings at 20%.
Take the weight of your car, and divide it by 2. Then take your weight bias and use it to split up your springs. For example, if you car weights 2000 pounds with a 48% Front weight, set your front springs to 2000 / 2) * (0.48) and your rear springs to (2000 / 2) * (0.52).
I usually took my anti-roll bars and redistributed them according to the weight bias as well. I usually took the values the game gave and set them to 50 - 75% of what they were before redistributing them.
Then, take the car to the test track. I personally like Catalunya and Nurburgring GP and drive the car.
If you’re loosing grip due to wheel spring as you apply throttle on corner exit make sure you are exiting the corner well. If you are, lower your differential setting.
If you’re generally oversteering on corner entry or exit, lower your rear springs.
If you’re generally oversteering mid corner under low-constant throttle or no throttle, lower your rear anti-roll bars.
Remember, always work on one thing at a time and fix the end of the car that is having the problem. There is a lot to read on these boards and a lot to watch on YouTube to help you with tuning. In the end, tune, practice, and adjust as much as you can and see what works best for you. We can tell you everything, but until you start applying it and seeing what changes generate which results it won’t be as meaningful. You learn the best by doing.
You mean I’m not supposed to go 100% full throttle around corners?
I am the worst driver.
Thanks for the reply.
if all else fails traction control is the solution lol…i go for more rear arb than front as thats the way rwd cars are in real life it stops inside wheel lift and aids in turning in…i adjust till it stops sliding then adjust rear camber some more or less but most of the time its luck than judgement then i blast around a few tracks to find a happy medium for lobby cars then beat the hell outta it till i get beaten then i try other cars its a viscious circle i spend more time trying things and test driving than actual racing lol
This is my story exactly!
Lower your diff acceleration for less kick out and bump stiffness for all around better traction.
What are you doing when the back slides out? If your heavy on the brakes and it’s kicking out then it might be your brake bias, if it’s doing it when you throttle on or throttle off then it could be the diff, or perhaps your simply throttling too hard, or if your locking the brakes and then throwing it into the corner then youve already broken traction so holding a smooth corner will be more difficult.
The springs and arb could also be off or you may simply have a bad build, try adding racing tires, add aero and adjust to max cornering, try adding negative camber to keep more tire contact during for cornering.
Try tuning a different car that is a bit easier to drive and learn on that before attempting the harder cars, for a class id suggest the Ferrari f50, it’s incredibly competitive on the leaderboards still but even when it’s not completely dialled in it’s fairly easy to drive and much easier to tune compared say the xbow. Alrernatively, find an open source tune and look at the settings for it, try using that as a base and tune it from there to acxomodate your tuning style.
You all are so awesome for the quick help.
I’m still building up my car, but I must say this community is the best!
Meow be with you.
Ok… Bad Driver (me) or Bad Tune (me) or Both?
Car: Maserati 8CTF ( 1939 )
Performance Index (#): 500
Class: C
Speed: 6.8
Handling: 4.4
Acceleration: 7.7
Launch: 6.7
Braking: 4.2
Drive (Type): RWD
Power (HP): 364; (LBs) 5.4 : 1
Torque (LB-FT): 335; (LBs) 5.9 : 1
Displacement (L): 30.0
Weight of Car (LBS): 1979
Weight Distribution (%):
· (Front): 62%
· (Rear): 38%
Redline (RPM): 7278
Peak Torque (RPM): 5456
Calculated (HP & Torque) (RPM): 5707
Top Speed (Calculated) (MPH): 181.9
Upper-Spring-Rate (lb/in): 820.2
Lower-Spring-Rate (lb/in): 102.5
Car Width (in): 59.8, Car Length (in): 161.4, Car Height (in): 43.3
Wheelbase (in): 107.2
Track Width, Front (in): 53.5
Track Width, Rear (in): 53.5
Build (Parts and goodies)
Conversion
·Engine Swap: Not Available
·Drivetrain Swap: Not Available
·Aspiration Conversion: Twin-Screw Supercharger (Stock)
Engine
·Restrictor Plate: Not Available
·Air Filter: Stock
·Intake Manifold and Throttle Body: Not Available
·Carborator: Stock
·Fuel System: Not Available
·Ignition: Stock
·Exhaust: Not Available
·Camshaft: Not Available
·Valves: Stock
·Displacement (Block): Stock
·Pistons and Compression: Street
·Aspiration: Street (Stock)
·Intercooler: Available ( No PI Change, Did Not Select )
·Oil and Cooling: Stock
·Flywheel: Stock
Platform & Handling
·Brakes: Street
·Springs & Dampers: Race
·Front Anti-roll Bars: Race
·Rear Anti-roll Bars: Race
·Chassis Reinforcement and Roll Cage: Stock
·Weight Reduction: Stock
Drivetrain
·Clutch: Stock
·Transmission: Stock
·Driveline: Sport
·Differential: Race
Tires and Rims
·Tire Compound: Stock
·Rim Style: Stock
·Front Tires: 150/95R19
·Rear Tires: 190/95R20
Aero and Appearance
·Front Bumper: Not Available
·Rear Wing: Not Available
·Rear Bumper: Not Available
·Side Skirts: Not Available
·Hood / Bonnet: Not Available
Tune
Tire Pressure
·Front (PSI): 28.0
·Rear (PSI): 27.5
Alignment
·Camber Front: -1.5 °
·Camber Rear: -1.5 °
·Toe Front: 0.0 °
·Toe Rear: 0.0 °
·Front Caster (Angle): 5.3 ∟
Anti-Roll Bars
·Anti-Roll Bars Front: 14.23
·Anti-Roll Bars Rear: 25.75
Springs (lb/in)
·Springs Front: 450.6
·Springs Rear: 426.6
·Front Ride Height (in): 3.6
·Rear Ride Height (in): 3.1
Damping
·Rebound (Front): 7.5
·Rebound (Rear): 4.6
·Bump (Front): 4.5
·Bump (Rear): 2.7
Aero
·Front Aero Downforce (LB): 0
·Rear Aero Downforce (LB): 0
Brakes
·Brakes (Balance): 54%
·Brakes (Force): 100%
Differential
·Acceleration (Front): 0%
·Acceleration (Rear): 25%
·Deceleration (Front): 0%
·Deceleration (Rear): 10%
·Split (Front): 0%
·Split (Rear): 0%
Gearing
· No tranny, they were all out.
Excel Car Data
The above link opens in the web version of Excel, Yay! But you are free to download and look at all the formulas if you have Excel 2010 and above.
I have a clip of my driving, but I can’t figure out how to upload. but you should be able to watch my clips
Ok, first things I noticed.
No race brakes? No weight reduction? And no rollcage?
Looking at it there isn’t many upgrades put in so I’m guessing you didn’t have much wiggle room. Id suggest boosting it to b class, add a weight reduct, race brakes, sport tires at minimum. Focus on power last. The rollcage also helps a lot in keeping the car more rigid, it may add weight but it often makes handling the car a lot easier, also usually gives u a bit more PI. As far as the tune goes, is up the decal diff to 15-20, anything below 15 or too high can cause lift throttle overstretched meaning when you release the throttle the car will oversteer. Tire compound is one of the most important things to me, the grip you get is essential, however it also costs a lot of PI. The trick is to get a good level of grip without addind too much than what is needed. For b class I think sport will be fine. A class, sport or race depending on your car, s class and above, race always. For c class you would be fine with street or stock depending on the car. Next up, add more negative camber, This game lets you get away with it. Try -3.0 and -2.6, I usually start around there then only really change the rear unless there are glaring problems. Bump the caster back up a but, 6.0 should be enough in this game as the differences aren’t as effective as they should be. I’d also drop the ride height to even numbers, that’s just me though, I figure a higher front end would allow for larger weight transfer under braking, this means that when you approach a corner all the weight and inertia is moving to the front which means less weight on the back, as you then try and throttle in the turn if that weight is still toward the front then you wont have enough traction in the rear and will end up with wheelspin. This can be countered with correct spring setup but I think it’d be easier to drop the ride height to even and then adjust springs… That’s just me though and I could be wrong. Anyway, hope some of that helps, save your setup before making any changes as I’m only speculating with a lot of it and could very well make it worse. Work on the build first though, see what you swap around to get more grip and I really suggest the race rollcage to stiffen her up.
Race brakes were not even an option.
Yeah, I could up the class, I do usually go for roll cage and weight reduction. Lateral weight transfer is a killer and those help lots.
I also go for the fattest, thin wall race compound so I don’t get sidewall roll.
But I wanted to see if others could take my best shot at what I thought was a good challenge and see their improvements, or if my driving is really just that bad,
Thanks for the tip on decel differential, it seems every time I raise that bugger it doesn’t work out, but I’ll try again.
I couldn’t raise the the camber anymore without getting temperature difference in the tires that wouldn’t go away, no matter the caster setting.
I thought about modifying the rake (car height front to back difference), but if the car was designed that way, I always wonder: “Who am I to second guess the car design.”
Thank you for your reply it was informative.
The Tune is share and open and available in excel.
Enjoy! (I hope)
Oh, and if she’s turning into a corner too hard, add some rear toe-in. This makes a massive change imo, only go one click at a time and generally avoid anything over -.3. It will cost you a tiny butbof instability in the straightline but the benefit is well worth it if your turning in too sharply as it is.
I don’t have experience with this car in game but I was surprised as well about some of the upgrades. If you can, put on race brakes, a roll cage may not be necessary, but look into some of the chassis reinforcement, it may help. I don’t think this car has a weight reduction option, does it?
I don’t know just looking at the tune, but it looks like there are a couple of things to consider just looking at the numbers. Again, until you drive it, you can’t be sure, but some things I noticed:
----> DISCLAIMER: All suggestions based purely on numbers and not on a test drive. Modify tune at your own risk, there is no guarantee anything I say will help your tune until I get behind the wheel. <-----
This game can take a lot of camber, and it looks relatively low. I’d try starting around the -3.0 range and go from there. If the car understeers on corner entry, lower the front camber. Then, and only because I’m not sure where this would be affected and I’ve seen it a lot, I put my rear camber within .2 - .6 of the front camber based on feel. (My next step in tuning is to learn more about alignment) Just remember, if you put the camber lower, you need to raise the camber a bit from where it is to compensate.
See how the car feels with the ride height lowered. I’d put it as low as it goes and take it for a spin. If it isn’t bottoming out anywhere, unsettling or feeling like it will flip going over kerbs, or shuddering under braking, leave it. If any of that happens, raise it one or two notches and try again.
The damping settings (the other thing I’m trying to learn more about) look a little off. You might try to lower the bump as low as it goes. If you’ve dialed in the ride height and notice any of the above symptoms, raise the bump by .1 or .2 and repeat until it is resolved. General Swift told me he starts his tunes at 1.0for bump and adjusts up by feel and I’ve found that for a lot of cars, surprisingly, it works really well and there aren’t a lot of issues with it. I’d start low and work my way up here.
I may not be the best driver, but I can take your car out for a spin tomorrow and report back what I think, maybe even give you some more pointers that are specific to this car and based on an actual test drive.