You what? I totally agree, mate!
Since getting FM2, I always noticed how the cars looked and moved realistically while racing, but in replays, they look like cardboard boxes with barely any suspension oscillation or chassis flex! Kills it totally, IMO.
I don’t think animation has been among T10’s strengths.
I explained why you are not able to do Burnouts and this would happen also in real life ;In a game you have everything perfect, so if you press the brakes they will always have the same power on all wheels, there is no issue of rust on disk, weared out brake pads that reduce brake efficiency, this means that if you brake, force will be delivered to all wheel equaly. If you have upgraded brakes, you can tune them all Forward and you can do your burnouts, or like in reality, first try to heatup the rear wheels to reduce their grip,or put Camber at max to reduce surface patch.
You can check the telemetry, there is a page decicated to the Grip of the tires.
Torque steer is calculated in the FFB, but very generic, like said before, the CIVIC has a natural anti torque configuration, on same surface it eliminates it, where like the GOLF has a electrical input in the steering rack to compensate.
But in game all FWD from a stand still touque away in the same way.
But in different surface , there is no mechanism that hold, where there is more grip, the wheel have to steer away from it.
Asking like a PID control for remote control. But you realize there are people that don’t set their cars of even their Steering wheels, now you put a settings for the controller that has such a low angle if use. Like in RC Drones, you have very long sticks and can control accurately.
This request on a controller would only encrease the Understeer issue, very badly.
Now the Game already gives you maximum grip, that is actually what you would be looking for, If you understeer with a controller, is because you are above car limits and a car tuned for understeer(like in reality all cars) when you reach the limit, you go straight. And if you do the GT7 corner approch, you will go straight, because front wheel grip is limiter.
yes i am well aware of forza’s telemetry tools.
try this, put a race differential in a stock fwd car and set the acceleration and deceleration to 0% (open diff) open the telemetry and do wheelspin pulls getting the left wheel spinning and then right wheel spinning and see if the torque steer is still being applied in the same direction. then in straight line money shift and see if the deceleration on a single wheel creates a FFB pull
I did my test doing a start with stock diff, same as a open diff. One wheel on grass and one wheel on the road. With in acceleration a FWD steering should pull to the Grass, instead it pulls to the Road even if you put the grass on the left or on the right. And it is not correct
In a RWD it does the same, with less force during acceleration and more force during braking, and that is correct.
The one you explain is not correct to see torque distribution, because you have body movement involved, so torque is coming from the wheels, but also from the car as well and you have more torque from a stand still than from hot rolling tires.
Have you tried your method, what did you find out?
but how do you know if the cars have a positive or negative scrub radius? as that is the determining factor as to which way it will pull. using the grass is also a bad test method as forza has some strange physics with grass that tries to pull the car in and make it flip if you slide sideways on it.
stock diff is not open in forza, only way to get open diff is with a race differential at 0%. (edit: an open diff will still drive both wheels if the load and tractive force on them is equal, when you wheelspin it is easier to imbalance them and quickly send all of the torque to 1 wheel) then you will get torque applied to only 1 driven wheel and you can test the wheel pulling by getting the driven wheel to change. if torque steer is calculated then you should also feel a strong pull in the wheel from deceleration on a single wheel like a money shift or even just engine braking
Grass it has in any condition less grip than Tarmac, this means that what is on the Tarmac will generate more torque. So if you have more active torque on the right side, the wheel turn to the left, because on the left side there isn’t enough torque to balance the force.
The effect you are creating is the auto alignment, that involves also Suspension alignement. A open differential when it has a wheel slipping it can’t send torque to the not sliding wheel, because all force is lost in the speening wheel.
In the Telemetry a axle is active when the lines going out from the center are going in the direction of motion, In a FWD the front wheels have lines going farward and in a RWD they willl be going backward(Passive)
If I remember well The Blue line is Grip, the white torque, once the white becomes longer than the Blue, you loose traction. In this case; wheel on the Grass will have lines shorter than the wheel on tarmac.
less grip yes, but also much higher rolling resistance which will create alot of drag to that side…
because the grass has less grip that wheel is far more likely to slip and an open diff will send drive to that wheel, not the one on the tarmac.
Auto alignment has to do with the caster trail, the longitudinal offset of the tyre contact patch to the steering axis. torque steer is the lateral offset of the tyre contact patch to the steering axis (scrub radius)
by spinning one wheel we should be able to feel the effect of the scrub radius as torque steer if it is calculated, by getting each wheel to spin independently we can see if that force changes direction when the opposite wheel spins.
the lines litterally represent the percentage thats shown above it and that percentage is the normalized peak slip (slip angle and slip ratio). cars have varying actual peaks and even changes of rim size, tyre sizes and even tyre pressures change the actual peak angles and ratios. one car might have a peak slip of 5* and another 9* but it is normalized to a percentage scale so that you can just read it as peak slip is 100%. the size of the circle around it indicates the tyre load, which also influences the peak slip. the length of the lines indicate the amount of force being applied to the tyre in that direction
To push the car forward with a Open diff, you would need 50/50 on both tires, because you can’t have 60 on grass and 40 on tarmac, even if you manage to have 40 on grass and 60 on tarmac, it should turn.
The Scrub radios will reduce or encrease this effect , but this is a consequence of suspension geometry, like in Nascar, the steering will not be center on straight, becasue having the Scrub point different from left to right, will turn the steering will to the point the there will be the same force on both wheels and this is the Trail effect or Auto alignement.
For the Telemetry, I forgot about the Circle, that should show Max grip, Blue line Torque and yellow the force direction. If Blue or force go out of the circle, you lose grip. Now is already a month away from home, but that should be the colors…Maybe 
Where do I start?
the “designated steering areas”- venture out of the approved zone for corner entry, and you will simply not be given enough steering angle (on controller) to make the turn.
Steering angle (once again on controller) being tied to vehicle speed. Spend all your points on suspension upgrades, and you get rewarded with having to slow down just as much because you’re traveling faster than the game thinks you should, and you get no steering angle.
The self destruct sequence built into any of the musclecars (wheel)- With absolutely no steering input, they will begin to wobble side to side, until they spin out and crash.
Random loss of downforce (RLOD) (both controller and wheel)- usually more prevalent in single player races. You enter a corner using the same line, speed etc as you have the previous six laps, and find that the car no longer has any grip at all. Rewind, try again, and everything works like normal.
magic dirt. It’s so magical that it will cause traction loss on wheels not even in contact with it.
the way that only the player car is tied to the laws of physics. The AI car that is in the lead- no matter what class or what has been done to the car will always be able to take the corners at an unrealistic speed, and will always have enough speed to run you down.
you are confusing, i give up
I’ve been playing a fair amount of Assetto Corsa Competizione recently and find myself really missing that game’s controller setup in Forza. For those who haven’t played ACC, it gives you control over the speed sensitivity, steering rate, how much sudden inputs get filtered and the response curve, along with letting you turn off the assist which prevents you turning the virtual wheel past the point of understeer.
I like a fast but predictable response when I play on controller, and I find even in “sim” mode Forza has too much filtering to get cars turned in as quickly as I’d like. The understeer prevention assist also makes it difficult to predict the amount of lock you’ll need, although in most cases it’s invasive enough and the steering so slow that you may as well push the stick all the way in the expectation you’ll most likely be fighting the game to give you more steering lock. It all feels very stiff, slow and a bit artificial compared to ACC where even without a wheel getting the car turned in and putting the apex where you want it becomes instinctive after a couple of practice laps.
This has been especially prevalent in X-Class Multiplayer this week.
Although some cars can get off the grid well, none (when using manual/clutch) can reasonably recover from a spin due to excessive stalling, even when revving beforehand.
Let’s all vote for this:
I don’t like the fact that the steering feels canned on a controller. Like you can never overdrive the front wheels and it will always give you the perfect angle at any given speed. We should have the ability to oversteer or overdrive the car and make corrections throughout the corner, just like on a real track.
Also, the unnecessary understeer to make driving easier has to go. IRL, it’s very easy to oversteer these cars on a track, yet in FM your front wheels would be turned all the way and they just scrub along. The car never gets upset.
The suspension movement and chassis flex really needs to be worked on too. Cars still feel too stiff and stable, as if they don’t have a suspension or shock absorbers - reminds me of FM2 replays.
I bet 99% of you complaining about controller steering aren’t even using simulation steering🤣
Don’t worry, if that is implemented and they can’t win easily, they will go back to normal assisted controls.
I’m using simulation steering 
Always have since FM 4 
I have been since day one.
Another user here with a controller, sim steering and ABS only.
It bugs the living daylights out of me that the tighter to the inside of a corner you are, the more the game lets you steer. I now frequently find myself having only one wheel on the track while the rest of the car is out of track boundaries through the entire duration of a corner just so the game lets me carry more apex speed.
Often if I try to take a very wide and/or late entry into a corner, the game just will not let me turn enough, often having to take off speed unnecessarily and ending up going through the turn around 10mph slower than if I take the line the game wants. I find I have to take a ridiculously tight approach or hit an extremely early apex during a long corner to get the best lap time, which defies all racing logic.
I can take Road America East’s 3rd turn as an example. It’s such a wide braking area that you can use and so much time to turn in, and naturally you would want to be on the very far left against the wall before turning in.
If I approach and brake on the right (inside) half of the track and stick tight to the inside all the way in and out of the corner, I can take the apex some 8-9 mph quicker than if I take the natural wide approach, which should require less steering angle. It drives me livid sometimes!