TX DOR and Simulation or Normal steering

Hey guys,

I’m very inexperienced in Forza, don’t have experince on other simulators and in real life I’m just a Sunday or supermarket driver, so I’m asking your help to try to understand some things.

I have a Tx and played a decent amout of time FH2 with it, without any assist and with simulation steering.

With FM6 the game changes completely: I’m always oversteering, loosing control of the car and I almost never able to countersteer or correct a beggining of a slide. I can only complete a lap without spinning out, starting in A class, if I’m really very conservative, but this way I’m not competitive at all and it feels like my real world driving experience against Senna!

I’m playing with simulation steering and with the default settings, so with 540 DOR for most of the cars.

Do you guys, who have a TX, race with the same settings and aren’t you also having issues with oversteering?

What can you advise me to get better in this game that I love?

I’ve noticed that if I change simulation steering to normal steering, it helps a bit, but I don’t know if I should do it. Can you address these doubts please:

If I use normal steering rather than simulation with a TX, what am I losing aside the 2% extra credits?

Is a wheel player who masters simulation steering faster than a wheel player who’s the same level but uses normal steering? Isn’t steering the only assist which doesn’t become you faster after mastered?

I’ve read people saying that simulation steering is for wheels and normal for controllers, but then other people saying the opposite. Can you confirm if there is a more suitable steering mode depending on the the input?

Thank you, sorry for the long text and looking forward to read your feedback!

I play with 540 do and normal steering. I tried simulation steering as I thought it would make the game better for me but to be honest after 2 or so weeks of trying I went back because although I was getting better at it it was not enough. Even spin out a lap is too much and you get better at being careful rather than controlling the car in a spin out which is not realistic to me. Can’t imagine cars being so stupidly difficult to drive. But whatever just takes too much fun out especially online where you have idiots to ruin the game aswell. Hope that helps lol

For me the only real difference when using a wheel, between normal and simulation steering in practice, is the ease of counter steering. There are some other differences but that’s the biggest impact for me.

DOR is likely personal preference

On a controller I like using simulation steering.

You can be fast using a controller or a wheel. I’m faster with a controller. People are different.

Otherwise, controller or wheel, simulation or normal steering, I don’t believe there is much lose or gain if you keep it under control. I’ve got some fast times with sim steering on a wheel but I have more fun using normal.

I do use the G920 but I don’t believe that matters for the issues you’re asking about. There is probably little practical difference between FFB wheels because they are subject to the same FFB treatment from the game.

I use 420 DOR, Sensitivity Mode 2 and Normal Steering, with this settings cars are stable at high speed and it is easy to catch a slide with control.

Doesn’t the Sensitivity Mode 2 correspondes to 360°?

In FH2, whenever I was changing the sensitivity mode on the wheel, the in-game DOR was reflecting that change, but with FM6 it’s always at 540°. Anyone knows why?

Thank you for all your replies!

You can read about it here… http://ts.thrustmaster.com/faqs/eng/thr_eng_00152.pdf Have your TX at standard 900DOR and set DOR in game at 420 and set your TX at Sensitivity level 2 (two flashes) It’s like night and day in this game. you should, try it, thrust me :slight_smile:

I use what this guy suggested here except I use 540 DOR .
The only thing to remember is ever time you boot up the wheel is to reset the sens to 4 and also re calibrate your pedals.

Before I tried this I still used 540 with the sens setting on 2 but I have always used normal steering there is just no real advantage IMHO to use sim steering.

I just started wheel driving myself this weekend and went through the same struggle as you. I am using a different wheel, but as someone else mentioned I don’t think that matters as far as the issues at hand.

I recommend you go to Normal steering, increase your DOR and turn on STM, at least for now. I found that when I did that I was able to get used to the wheel and have drastically improved my driving to the point where I am now ready to lower my DOR (I have had it maxed at 900 - makes it less twitchy) and turn off STM.

As for catching spin outs what I found is that it feels to me like you have to really exaggerate your counter steer. Consider with a controller when you counter steer you whip the stick real quick from one direction to the other and because there is so little range there it is easy to really get from one side to the other in a hurry - this is not as easy with the wheel. I found myself under-counter steering. Give the wheel a good yank back the other way and it should catch.

EDIT: I also noticed that it seems with the wheel that all my cars that I tuned and loved with the controller oversteer like crazy when driving with the wheel. So I have been revising the tuning on all my cars. Fun fun!

I just posted a bit ago some of this in a thread My racing wheel experience so far

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To OP

This is the same issue everyone was having when the game first came out. All you need to do is lower you outside steering deadzone to around 50. I keep mine at 45 with 540 DOR. This will make catching the overexaggerated oversteer much easier. Please try it. Then you can lower or raise from there as you see fit.

To RickDII

The Tx has a sensitivity level you can adjust on the wheel as well as the degree of rotation.
To adj the sensitivity press mode and click the right paddle shifter to adjust the sensitivity up. 1 blink, 2 blinks etc. not really sure what the sensitivity does though. Doesn’t seem to affect things too much i just keep it at 1.

To adj DOR press mode and press eng. start button on right side 360 540 etc etc.

Also if you change the dor on the wheel you must go in the menu and change it to the same corrwsponding dor otherwise the steering wheel in car view will be different. Good luck.

Doesn’t that take your 540 DOR and effectively make it ~240 DOR?

Yes, it does.
Dead zone of 50 means you are at lock at half the rotation of whatever the DOR is set to.

To the OP - I would recommend Normal…it won’t make you any slower - if anything it might make you faster as the margin of error is more forgiving.

Yes I believe like XC 811 said if your change your DOR by 50% your 540 sensitivity is 270 I run my DOR 100 and my sensitivity 270 from what I understand normal controller sensitivity is 270 so when I tune with a controller the car handles the same with the wheel I may not be exactly right but it seems to work for me and a few fellow racers I run with.

My guess is you are using stock setup cars which seem to me to have way to much rear deceleration locking on the rear diff.
Try braking with a tiny amount of throttle on to take the rear decel out and replace it with accel.
Takes some practice which I discovered in a 35 lap stock endurance race in career mode but it will get rid of that off throttle oversteer I think your getting.
I run tx wheel on normal as it’s very hard to correct that snap steering when I lose it. Tried both and my lap times were the same so no point using sim.

I would recomend normal steering, dor is purely personal preference but I would start low and adjust it higher till you find it comfortable.

And don’t rely heavily on the ffb, it’s very inaccurate.

This is exactly my story from start to finish!

If you dig around there are some good posts that can help

I am around 50% there with my wheel, its a very long road…

A shame really that there is such a learning curve to using a wheel, if anything it should be straight forward…it is after all, a steering wheel and pedals right!?

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