Tuning help needed for 2016 Ford Shelby GT350R

Hello, I’ve played Forza Horizon, Horizon 2, and recently Horizon 3.

I’ve never really worried about, or played with the tuning until recently when I started racing in online adventures. I realized that, I simply CANNOT keep up with anyone in the lobbies.
I tried maxing out my car(s) and realized, no matter what I do, the majority of the time, I STILL cannot keep up with the pack.
I’m not a perfect driver, but I try to drive normally, not smashing into everyone in corners (As most of everyone else does) but nothing seems to help me…

So, recently I tried tuning up the 2016 Ford Shelby GT350R. I got decent by using some online video tutorials, and some tips here on the forums, but still cant seem to find a good balance, too much understeer… I still struggle with the equations I should use to determine the springs, dampening and such. So, I know this has been a long post (Kind of) So could someone help me out with a good tune for the 2016 Ford Shelby GT350R? I’m really looking for good cornering, but overall I just want something to assist me in racing, so speed would probably be good to…
Also, it would be nice if I could see the tune in a series of screen shots, but any help is welcome!

Thanks!

This Shelby starts in S1 class at around 820 PI points or so. I don’t have one yet (I want one badly, actually, but keep buying other cars, haha). Try keeping it in S1 class at 900 PI and spend your points on mostly engine upgrades. Go for 7.6 to 7.8 handling stat, could be even less.

A few notes:

  1. AWD is a must.
  2. Since you’re playing online and the GT350R is a very modern car, don’t bother with rollcage as it just adds weight and the grip increase is minimal.
  3. This car already has 6 gears so the race transmission might be a good buy since it shouldn’t increase PI too much.
  4. Don’t be afraid of using sport brakes if necessary. Not adjustable, but good stopping power and costs less PI.
  5. Get forced induction if you can. Turbo makes bigger power and weighs less but has lag. Supercharger is the opposite. Centrifugal supercharger can be used if necessary to keep it in S1 class but requires short gears since it steals a lot of torque at lower revs.
  6. Flywheel, driveline, clutch should be purchased only if the car is already at the top of its class and they don’t increase PI, or when you need them to bring it to the top. If not, don’t bother with them. I recommend learning to use manual transmission with manual clutch as well, you can shift faster this way. If you have a big thumb like I do, it’s not too hard to learn!
  7. Never buy oil cooling. Intercooler only if the car comes with it stock (the GT350R doesn’t). These add weight to the engine, which is undesirable in a front-engined car. Oil cooling rarely increases PI, in fact the car might lose PI because of the weight penalty. Intercooler could be useful if you need the oomph but it’ll hurt handling.

Basically what you’ll want to do is to max out the engine with forced induction (or have as many power upgrades as possible at the very least), buy the highest possible weight reduction upgrade, buy race sway bars and springs, race differential, and also race transmission if PI cost is low. Race brakes are nice but if you need more power use sport.

When upgrading engine, use the upgrades that give you the best numbers. Try to get race exhaust if possible, this one reduces weight a lot. Don’t upgrade cams unless you really need it, as cams increase power by increasing engine revs, so the amount of torque they increase is almost negligible. However, more horsepower helps on high speed tracks.

As for tires, use the best ones that still keep you in the better class for the car as well as allowing you to max the engine out. The GT350R is already a modern car with modern rubber so the gain from tires is not as significant as with older cars. If you can fill in the remaining PI with tire width instead of compound, do it, as width usually costs less. If the car understeers, make the front tires wider, but never wider than the rear ones unless running FWD (which you never should when playing online). With AWD it could be good to use as close to square setup (same width front and rear) as possible, but I haven’t really messed around with it.

Rim size won’t help too much with modern cars but if you feel the car too floaty you can try using lower profile tires (bigger rim size) to make it more responsive.

Engine swap is highly dependent on the car, I usually don’t buy it unless it’s required to reach the top of the class. The problem with a swap is that the new engine may have completely different characteristics. I don’t know which options the GT350R has but I believe it’s got the 8.4L V10 as an option, which is a much different engine from stock. New engines might be heavier as well, this penalizes handling a lot in a front-engined car like the Shelby.

You could try buying aero but for S1 class I believe it’s not necessary, it’ll also hurt speed a lot unless you run very low downforce. Pay attention to the car’s behavior at high speed to see whether you need aero or not.

I’m no expert but this is an amalgamation of my experience and the tips the pros tend to give, I hope you find it useful. :slight_smile:

Hi! Thanks for the reply and support!

Is this tune decent in cornering? Also, sorry, but explain what “PI” is… (I probably know what you mean, but know it worded as something else)… Thanks!

EDIT: Sorry, I got it now, Performance Index, like S1 and S2, guess I’ve just never referred to it that way.

It’s a slow car for s1 there’s nothing you can do.

I disagree, sorry. When setup properly it is a very fast multiplayer lobby car in S1. Leave the aero off and stick with the stock tires, just max out the width and it is hard to beat.

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I would suggest downloading ERS Hornet’s good tune for this car which might not feel pleasant to everyone but showcases the optimal balanced build route for FH3 online racing.

Indeed. It gets close to 1000 bhp when fully upgraded and handles pretty well. Excellent for its category in S1 class and probably competitive against other categories, too.

Nice tip, I appreciate it as well.

Rather have a 1000 hp s1 Supra then a mustang. They handle and stop better.

In S1 this might be true because to my knowledge the Supra needs less weight and better tires to reach the top of the class, but this new GT350R is a handler, it’s capable of good things. :slight_smile: