Hey everyone I’m new to forza! . I don’t understand tuning or upgrades so I’ve put everything up to max upgrade on my Mustang Shelby and now it drifts wayy to bad. I can’t turn a corner without it spinning out . Any help tips ? No clue how to do it haha . Thanks
I think you have isolated the problem! You are rarely rewarded for maxing out a car, period - and definitely not without also doing some tuning adjustments.
A good start is just google “forza tuning calc” there are some great calculators out there that can give you a head start on coming up with a decent tune for your build.
If you dont want to do that, I think almost every car could benefit from driveline upgrades, and suspension upgrades…skip the turbos, and engine upgrades until you get comfortable with a car. These also dont impact the rating of the car too much. Upgrading tires is very costly from a ratings perspective, and dubious for anything under A or B class.
You could download tunes from tuners like myself. just go into the load upgrades menu and search for a tuner you like. Follow that tuner and their tunes will come up in that menu first if they have a tune for that car. Sounds like you could actually use some HOON tunes(my pet name for my tunes), but if you want to do it yourself, here’s how I do it. copy pasta from my HOON tunes post
I thought I’d share my upgrading and tuning process.
A few rules of thumb for upgrading tuning.
Always do a AWD swap, you wont be competitive without it.
If you are doing A or S1 class, try using the 6.2 liter V8. You might get more out of it than the V12.
You want the turbo conversion if you can get it. Note that you can try using a twin screw or centrifugal supercharger instead of turbos if you need a bit more PI room. You might want to re work the gears though, since the torque comes in later in the power band.
Engine upgrades in order of importance; cams, turbo, exhaust, displacement, pistons, fuel, ignition, intake.
Never buy the intercooler or oil as they tend to cause understeer.
Always buy the following; Race suspension, Race anti roll bars front and back, race diff, AWD swap, maxed rear tire width.
Try to get; Race trans, sport stiffening, race weight, aero front and back, turbo conversion
ONLY buy the roll cage and upgrade front tire width IF you have left over PI. (sometimes buying the cage will make it worse, look carefully)
The biggest PI increase in the world is tire compound. Try not to upgrade it unless you are going for s1 class or higher. (choose cars with naturally high handling stats.)
Leave off things like clutch, drive shaft, flywheel, and rims until you have only 2-4 PI left. Then fine tune the PI by adding different combos of those upgrades, starting with rims and drive shaft.
Tire pressure 27psi
Alignment =camber -2.0F, -1.0R, toe 0.1F, -0.1R, caster 5-6 depending on weight(inversely proportional to weight) *note that some cars come with preset alignment, ex. the Porsche GT3-RS is -1.0F/-2.0R, opposite of normal. but it’s engine is in the opposite end of the car, so it helps that particular car. leave those special preset values alone.
Attempt to max out your rear anti roll bar as far as you can. If you notice the inside rear tire lift off the ground or the car oversteers too much, you need to lower it until it doesn’t. usually between 50-65. Then adjust the front anti roll bar to balance out the feel of the turns. usually between 20-25 for tarmac and 13-19 for off road. Softer corrects understeer, but not so soft that the body begins to roll.
Springs and dampers I use a calculator for, forza tune 6 is an app you can pay for… or you can use this free community created one here> https://forums.forzamoto…dable-in-word–pdf.aspx
Aero is easy, use as little rear aero as needed for the rear end grip. you can increase front aero to correct understeer
Braking pressure is user preference, I prefer to fully depress the brakes without them locking until much slower speed. I reduce pressure to 80% balance between 55&52. Others, (faster than me “others” at that) increase to 145%pressure with no ABS on… I literally can’t even.
Diff for tarmac=front 13 -20 accel, 0 decel. rear 43-60 accel, 0 decel. Front /rear =69%
Now comes the fine tuning.
Understeer = Soften front, Stiffen rear; anti roll bars, springs, and dampeners. Remember the rear ARB should already be close to, if not, maxed. You can also decrease rear aero & increase front
Over steer. = Exactly the opposite of the steps for understeer. First try lowering the rear anti roll if maxed.
As long as you know what you are doing, you don’t need a calculator. My tunes are just as good and beat most people in a circuit race. I know a lot about how to tune gearing so it gets quicker to tune and easier as you do more tunes.
I just tune my gearing to have gears 1 threw 4 for circuit (Iike acceleration), 5th gear is for speed but has some acceleration to transfer you into 6th gear which is a geared for speed if you are ever on a long straightaway. It takes me 15-20 minutes to fully tune a car.
Would you like to expand on how you tune those elements? Or just say that your way is better?
Honestly I’m searching for a reliable way to tune springs and dampers without a using a calculator to first balance the weight over each end of the car before fine tuning. Gears I can do by eye.
Also I added you to see if your rivals times beat mine… you know, for science.
I did most of the races before i started tuning. I just fully upgraded the car and raced. After i completed the story-line, i got bored and stopped doing the races in-game. Either i make tunes or just go online.
I have made a tune you can check it out. It’s a X class but works great
Semi-Pro Tuner Here:
-Drive the car without any upgrades first, understand it. Take it over a few different surfaces.
-Note what you like and don’t like about it’s behavior
-Use modifications to correct them to your benefit
-AWD is not mandatory - Alignment and further tweeking are what makes the performance, suspension drastically affects handling.
-AWD kills top speed in nearly everything without engine swaps and even then too sometimes
-AWD is heavy!!! don’t use it as a crutch
-Tires are the most costly upgrade on your scoring
-always max brakes it costs nothing
-check the driveline upgrades first they may impact acceleration negatively
-acknowledge the torque to hp, if hp is wildly higher than torque you have made something that will be impacted
-There is a point where it has too much power to be useful
-For trucks just download my tunes! (kidding, trucks are heavy and their tuning times are higher than cars for trouble shooting)
-Sticking to class limits is a great way to start, determine what you can squeeze into that 800 (example) then optimize further
-Most underrated advise - it’s okay to not max a class, I have several builds where my score is lower than DonJoewonSong but my weight and power ratios are better, meaning a faster vehicle.
If you’re really new to this I would say keep at it. I didn’t get a break on people giving me feedback until I started producing tunes for Forzathons that helped connect me with folks that gave me better advice on short ratios, casters and spring rates.
My tunes account for no ABS, TCS, Stability, because that’s my preference. If you don’t like to drive without the safety net don’t, tune around your preference, if you know TCS will back up your iffy high horsepower go for it. I have a few builds I’ve made at requests that are specifically paired with TCS.
Good luck!