Dear tuners,
I’ve played Forza for a decent time now. (I started with the first Forza Motorsport but I never understood anything. My first true game was Forza 4.) But anyways, after playing the game for so long, I’ve never understood tuning. I know how to upgrade parts well, but when it comes to tuning, I know nothing. The one thing I understand is changing the gears but I usually am worse than stock tune. I want some help as I want to understand it so I can finally say I’m good at the game as I can drive, paint, but not tune.
Thank you, Vasili 3.
Are you after fast laps or a specific feel? I’m going to assume fast lap times with my response.
First, pick what class you want to build for. Then, AWD swap if not already AWD. Next, engine swap if you can afford it without going out of the class you’re building for. Next I do cams and trans swap, so long as the trans doesn’t add more than a few PI. Some add A LOT (Subaru 22B, Lamborghini LM002, etc.) If PI is left, keep adding power! This game favors power over grip and braking. After power I’ll reduce weight, and then I add suspension and aero. Rear tires are usually very little PI or “free” to upgrade so I’ll do those too. ALWAYS upgrade your diff to full race!
Assuming you have enough PI to upgrade everything, here’s how I tune most of my cars setting s and why:
PSI: lower psi for more grip. most times I’ll drop the front to 27ish and rear to 30sih, lets the rear “slide” a little more.
Suspension: lower ride height, makes car more stable UNLESS it’s a cross country build. Add more Camber, usually around 1.5 front and 0.5 rear. Camber gives more grip while cornering hard
Caster: I run 6.5, it makes the car more responsive and adds grip while cornering.
Anti Roll bars: Usually I don’t mess with them much, but if a car pushes/goes wide in turns I’ll soften the front one a bit to add more grip.
Dampening/Rebound : again I don’t mess with this much unless the car needs more front grip, then I’ll adjust dampening down in the front and I usually set bump to about half of whatever the dampening is.
Aero: Usually I’ll set the rear to speed and front to grip, all the way. Again it’s about making the car grip in corners at speed.
Braking: usually I’ll run about 55% bias, which helps the car to “rotate” under braking and pressure to around 110%. This allows good modulation, where I can “ride” the brakes without them locking up.
Diff: One of the most important parts of a tune. Set the Accel to very low for the front, like 10 and the front decel to 0. Set the Rear accel to 25 or so, and set the rear decel to like 10. This helps the car rotate or corner better than higher settings. But, higher settings will help some in off road situations where you have less grip and need to “power” out of dirt, sand, water, etc. The Bias I usually set to somewhere around 55-70 just depending on the vehicle and surface, for street use and cars I set it more to 65-70 and for trucks and/or off road use I find 50-60 works better.
I hope this helps, let me know if you have anymore questions!
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A few rules of thumb for tuning.
Always do a AWD swap, you wont be competitive without it.
If you are doing A or S1 class, try using the 6.2 liter V8. You might get more out of it than the V12.
You want the turbo conversion if you can get it. Note that you can try using a centrifugal supercharger instead of turbos if you are in a PI pinch. You might want to re work the gears though, since the torque comes in later in the power band.
Engine upgrades in order of importance; cams, turbo, exhaust, displacement, pistons, fuel, ignition, intake.
Never buy the intercooler or oil as they tend to cause understeer.
Always buy the following; Race suspension, Race anti roll bars front and back, race diff, AWD swap, maxed rear tire width.
Try to get; Race trans, sport stiffening, race weight, aero front and back, turbo conversion
ONLY buy the roll cage and upgrade front tire width IF you have left over PI. (sometimes buying the cage will make it worse, look carefully)
The biggest PI increase in the world is tire compound. Try not to upgrade it unless you are going for s1 class or higher. (choose cars with naturally high handling stats.)
Leave off things like clutch, drive shaft, flywheel, and rims until you have only 2-4 PI left. Then fine tune the PI by adding different combos of those upgrades, starting with rims and clutch.
Tire pressure 27psi
Alignment =camber2.0F, 1.5R, toe 0.1F, -0.1R, caster 5-6 depending on weight(inversely proportional to weight)
Attempt to max out your rear anti roll bar as far as you can. if you notice the inside rear tire lift off the ground, you need to lower it until it doesn’t. Then adjust the front anti roll bar to balance out the feel Of the turns. softer corrects understeer but stay above 20 unless tuning offroad.
Springs and dampers I use a calculator for, forza tune 6 is an app you can pay for… or you can use this free community created one here> https://forums.forza.net/turn10_postst71564_CW-s-Tuning-Guide--Calculators--AWD-UPDATE--downloadable-in-word--pdf.aspx
Aero is easy, use as little rear aero as needed for the rear end grip. you can use front aero to correct understeer
Braking pressure is user preference, I prefer to fully depress the brakes without them locking until much slower speed. I reduce pressure to 80% balance between 55&52. Others, (faster than me “others” at that) increase to 145%pressure with no ABS on… I literally can’t even.
Diff for tarmac=front 13 accel, 0 decel. rear 43-60 accel, 0 decel. Front /rear =69%
Now comes the fine tuning.
Understeer = SOFTEN FRONT ARB/spring/bump & STIFFEN REAR spring & [(rebound especially for lift off undersreer*)]. Remember the rear ARB should already be close to, if not, maxed. decrease rear aero & increase front.
Over steer. = Exactly the opposite of the steps for understeer. Also try increasing the rear decel differential to 10 if you loose traction too easily while cornering.