I’m fairly decent at tuning, but I was wondering if there are any tuning tricks that I should know about. Stuff like best tire pressure for grip(I use 15,15 or 28.5, 28.5) or stuff like gearing, what works for final drive and such(I have mine usually around either 2.98-3.02 or 2.58-2.62). Any help is appreciated.-Neku DHack, Neku Club Leader
some copy-pasta from my HOON tunes post
I thought I’d share my upgrading and tuning process.
A few rules of thumb for upgrading tuning.
Always do a AWD swap, you wont be competitive without it.
If you are doing A or S1 class, try using the 6.2 liter V8. You might get more out of it than the V12.
You want the turbo conversion if you can get it. Note that you can try using a twin screw or centrifugal supercharger instead of turbos if you need a bit more PI room. You might want to re work the gears though, since the torque comes in later in the power band.
Engine upgrades in order of importance; cams, turbo, exhaust, displacement, pistons, fuel, ignition, intake.
Never buy the intercooler or oil as they tend to cause understeer.
Always buy the following; Race suspension, Race anti roll bars front and back, race diff, AWD swap, maxed rear tire width.
Try to get; Race trans, sport stiffening, race weight, aero front and back, turbo conversion
ONLY buy the roll cage and upgrade front tire width IF you have left over PI. (sometimes buying the cage will make it worse, look carefully)
The biggest PI increase in the world is tire compound. Try not to upgrade it unless you are going for s1 class or higher. (choose cars with naturally high handling stats.)
Leave off things like clutch, drive shaft, flywheel, and rims until you have only 2-4 PI left. Then fine tune the PI by adding different combos of those upgrades, starting with rims and drive shaft.
Tire pressure 27psi
Alignment =camber -2.0F, -1.0R, toe 0.1F, -0.1R, caster 5-6 depending on weight(inversely proportional to weight) *note that some cars come with preset alignment, ex. the Porsche GT3-RS is -1.0F/-2.0R, opposite of normal. but it’s engine is in the opposite end of the car, so it helps that particular car. leave those special preset values alone.
Attempt to max out your rear anti roll bar as far as you can. If you notice the inside rear tire lift off the ground or the car oversteers too much, you need to lower it until it doesn’t. usually between 50-65. Then adjust the front anti roll bar to balance out the feel of the turns. usually between 20-25 for tarmac and 13-19 for off road. Softer corrects understeer, but not so soft that the body begins to roll.
Springs and dampers I use a calculator for, forza tune 6 is an app you can pay for… or you can use this free community created one here> https://forums.forzamoto…dable-in-word–pdf.aspx
Aero is easy, use as little rear aero as needed for the rear end grip. you can increase front aero to correct understeer
Braking pressure is user preference, I prefer to fully depress the brakes without them locking until much slower speed. I reduce pressure to 80% balance between 55&52. Others, (faster than me “others” at that) increase to 145%pressure with no ABS on… I literally can’t even.
Diff for tarmac=front 13 -20 accel, 0 decel. rear 43-60 accel, 0 decel. Front /rear =69%
Now comes the fine tuning.
Understeer = Soften front, Stiffen rear; anti roll bars, springs, and dampeners. Remember the rear ARB should already be close to, if not, maxed. You can also decrease rear aero & increase front
Over steer. = Exactly the opposite of the steps for understeer. First try lowering the rear anti roll if maxed.