I don’t understand A class online racing. Seems any car I build is either too slow from a single tire upgrade, or if I keep stock tires to conserve PI, I end up understeering and flying everywhere. If I don’t upgrade tires, I end up with about 6.5 handling.
I’m getting into using Forzatune, so I usually pick race suspension, ARBs, transmission, brakes. From there I’ll get as much HP as possible just to keep up.
Is it my building or driving that sucks? Do I need to break more?
PS- please don’t offer to build for me, I’m trying to learn this for myself, thanks.
6.5 is about the optimal point for a balanced A build. Either u need to adapt to the lack of handling (yes I won’t deny that) or u need improve forzatune numbers.
Brakes I focus on braking power for the class rather than maxing out (A-Class 7.5 or slight lower for me). Transmission car dependent. Trans upgrade which involves shift time reduction is an almost certain no for manual clutch users. Sports transmission sometimes lower PI compare to stock. And sometimes stock/street low-top-speed transmission should be kept (e.g. Subaru WRXs) as it allows reserving a whopping 20+PI to more useful areas.
Race suspension is pain in arse. It’s often more PI-efficient than lower upgrades but with one big catch: not-knowing VERY clearly what u doing would EASILY result in worst performance instead. Default numbers for race is usually a mess as well which certainly doesn’t help.
“Is it my building or driving that sucks? Do I need to break more?”
Info you’ve given so far is too vague I can’t answer that. Well I’m not 100% confident with my answers either regarding suspension numbers.
Thanks for replying: what I mean by driving vs build, is do tire upgrades ‘that’ much control, or is it just a case of me not braking enough and flying off the edge of the track. I use ABS and the brakeline driving aid, and start I braking where the line turns yellow on a given curve.
In the Horizon Series, it seems that almost all vehicles are difficult to tune. IMO, it’s because Horizon is primarily focused on “drifting”.
Here is a recommendation, take it or leave it… your choice.
I recommend either the Horizon Edition Chevelle or Camaro, I say “Horizon Edition” because these vehicles generally come with better tire tread than standard.
Reset the tune to “default”. Add AWD, Yes, AWD, this will make a significant difference in handling. Then add the suspension option to set the CAMBER, TOE, and CASTER. Set front and rear Camber to -0.5, set the rear Toe at -0.2, set the Caster at 5.0. I would also recommend getting the race rear differential and setting the acceleration and deceleration both to 75%; this will give you some engine braking which can be very useful.
Use the rest of your PI to build up the engine; then if it’s too fast to handle start adding wings and fine tuning the suspension. I would not recommend using ForzaTune unless it is a version specific to Horizon 3. If you use, for example; ForzaTune for FM6, your suspension will probably end up being too soft.
If this works for you, you will find you can adapt it to many vehicles, some will work, some won’t.
I’d turn the ABS off as it usually increases breaking distances but leave the breaking line on as it does help in showing the route to take.
What is your normal build and has Forzatune been updated for FH3?
First, the braking line will adjust to the type of brakes you are using and the speed you are going. So you don’t need to turn off ABS. Actually, ABS is designed to assist you, in that it allows you to continue steering while you brake; preventing brake lock up. However, ultimately ABS will slow you down because it requires a longer braking distance than non-ABS.
Per your problem; understeer into a corner. It could be one of the following:
You’re going too fast (slow down)
Your brakes are not very good (add race brakes)
Your tires have poor tread (add better tires)
Your suspension needs adjusting (decrease front toe-in, increase front bump damping, add front aero)
Ultimately, a lot of this matters on what vehicle you are working with. If you are trying to turn a Class D car into Class A, you are going to run into some problems.
Not sure which car you’re using but if you’re trying to run old car starting from C or B class in A class with stock tires then you’re gonna have to get used to the handling, stock tires are crap in those cars and the PI boost from better tires is actually justified, it’s just that the PI boost from AWD is not as much as it should’ve been, considering it’s very possible to add AWD with a lesser tire, spend the rest of the PI points in power and/or weight and have a demonstrably faster car instead of a theoretically equal one.
I’m not using any specific car, they are just rules of thumb. I use the rules for getting the best numbers out of the app.
My suggestion for A class in particular is the 32 ford coupe if you have the DLC. perhaps a charger daytona or a 93 ford cobra if you don’t.
Car selection is the most important in A class and below. You really need to choose cars that have decent stock tires to begin with.
Oh wow, my post was directed at OP, sorry! He didn’t say which car he was tuning, and he complained of understeer, so I figured he might be using something from a lower class which starts with vintage tires.
Your mention of the old Ford is a bit of a spoiler for me but no problem, at least now I know where it is. Thanks.
He didn’t say which car he was tuning, and he complained of understeer, so I figured he might be using something from a lower class which starts with vintage tires.