Tires: I adjust based on how grippy the car feels. More PSI = less grippy tire, really use this for the fronts.
Gears: Based upon power imo, more hp = longer gears, typically keep short for easier tire spin, you’ll be able to feel this out and adjust as you like.
Allign.: Negative camb. between 1.5 and 3. typically fronts with about .5-1 more camb than the rear.
Toe.: This is where I changed a little. In F 5, I ran 0 toe in the rear and around .5 + toe in front. Now in Horizon, I find it easier to slip the tires with -.5 toe in the rear, and I use this almost universally on all my cars. I may increase a bit more toe, but never exceeding -1 degree, cuz of speed ( tire contact is decreased w/ more camber, if you think about it )
Caster: 6-7, universally
ARBS: tuned based on car weight %, 52% front on a 2200 lbs car would have a suspension rate of around 540:500 imo, maybe less if you decided to math out the weight , but i don’t feel like doin that, so i take educated guesses.
Also on the Roll Bars, I typically run their stiffness based on car weight and also %. 52% 2200, probably 17.5 Front 16 R, to allow the 2% difference in car weight. Balance is key to a solid drift.
Ride height: typically .5 in higher in front, universally. You’ll notice a 0-60 increase if you bump ur ride height up instead of slamming it, although tempting
Damping: Run stiff, stiff is the key to sliding. I’d run 9.5 FR (front rebound) 8.5BR, 8.3FB(Front bump) 7.3RB, just to create an imbalance. I’d use these damps for a 52%,2200lbs car. Stiffer springs is sort of like increasing tire pressure, it’ll make those tires slip easier. For heavier vehicles I run higher and stiffer bump ratios, but everything is ratio’d upon car weight and distribution %. keep that in mind as you tune.
Aero: don’t use this
Brake: if im tandeming, i’ll reduce pressure to 90% and move balance 45% towards rear, so my car is easier on the brakes while getting on someones door and my tires won’t lock up. Also allows for more break control for hard drifting.
Diff. 60% accel, 0-5% decel, preference. some decel in rear makes car roll thru corners easier. That locked life, tho.
I run my brake set up so I can brake while sideways, if that makes sense. i’ll still be drifting, tapping the brakes to slow my car. On my track tunes, i run 55% towards front and keep balance at 100% to stop my car quicker also on the straights.
I don’t go crazy w/ my camber / toe.
always under 3 degree - camber, front and rears.
always under 1 degree - toe in rear.
always under 1 degree + or - toe in front.
If you’re understeering in front try bumping up ur tire psi in front, they’ll go where you want them to a bit easier then.
My camber is never above -2.0 on either front or back. I find it makes the car a little too unpredictable if you go with too much camber.
Track tuned brakes - 60% to the front, 110% pressure. I have been doing the same in Horizon, I guess I need to try less pressure and move it to the back. It makes sense, it was commented that I brake way too hard and fast when tandeming in Horizon 2. It really does feel like the brakes are more sensitive in this game than the past editions. due to that, I totally know what you mean about tapping the brakes while drifting. I would do so in FM4/5, but here it seems to be riskier. Again, lowering my balance and pressure should help a lot.