I too have had a quite disappointing time trying to lay FM6 with the TX. I’ve read through the various posts about oversteer and experienced nearly every car fish tailing no matter how slow I’m going. There’s clearly an issue with the TX and this game.
Nonetheless, I started doing some extreme yet calculated adjustments with the settings and I found a literal game changer this week. Before I share this revelation, I’ll give you the basics of my wheel “hardware” settings.
900 rotation
Sensitivity on “4”
Now for the in-game setting tweak that made everything feel as it should ----- TURN THE “STEERING AXIS DEADZONE OUTSIDE” COMPLETELY OFF!
I know this seems like madness, but just try it before you knock it. Actually this setting will only go down to 20, but you can still move the bar all the way to the left. I can’t begin to explain how much better the wheel and the game feels now. For the first time I was actually able to recover from oversteer and I could feel the tires breaking grip before the car spun!
I’m not sure why this works, but there’s got to be some sort of miscalculation with this setting. TRY IT. Hopefully it will make the game enjoyable for a few TX users.
I have the Thrustmaster TX and have not had any issues at all with oversteer or issues with the TX at all. For Forza 5 and 6 it is always best to set the base of your wheel to max sensitivity and DOR 900 and make all of your adjustments to DOR and force feedback in your advanced controller/wheel options settings in game.
Glad to hear some folks haven’t had the same issues I’ve had with the TX, but there are many post on this forum with complaints regarding the TX. I agree with you regarding the DOR 900 and sensitivity settings. To be clear, the wheel works just fine. I’ve used the TX for Forza 5, Project Cars and F1 2015 and it’s a good wheel. (I’m partial to my old Fanatec but the TX works well.) The issues that many have expressed with FM6 and the TX is that no matter what car you drive, it seems to break grip instantly. I was literally taking turns at 45mph and spinning out of control. The problem is that there’s no chance of recovery with the WHEEL OUTSIDE DEADZONE set at the default 95 - 100. I began to lower this setting in increments of 10 and the driving began to feel better with each tweak. When I finally dropped it all the way down, it felt perfect for me. I could finally feel the grip breaking point and counter steer to correct it. The game is much better now and I can actually drive a race without spinning out of control.
I should also note that I use the Simulation Steering setting in assists during races.
Count me among the ones that are about ready to chunk the whole thing out the window out of frustration. Like REDGameGuru said, I can be going around a very slow turn, hairpin at Long Beach, turn 2 at Brand’s Hatch, etc. and just spin out. The problem it seems to me is that the effective steering range is so narrow and the falloff at either the extreme left or right is so sharp and sudden that you can’t get a good feeling of when you’ve hit the no steering zone and it causes a spin out or you can’t catch a slide.
It’s like if you took your road car, moved the dead center of the steering wheel say 2 or 3 inches to the right or left, you start to make a gradual turn. Now if you move that wheel another inch, instead of the car just making a slightly increasing turn and staying there, you suddenly go to full lock. That would cause you to lose control and spin out on the highway if that was the case. That’s what the steering in this game feels like to me. It feels like the very edge of the steering zone greatly amplifies the turning radius of the car, and then falls off to nothing. To avoid this I’m having to tip toe so slowly around turns that I should be attacking that I know it’s costing me several seconds per lap. I haven’t even attempted LeMans, The Nordschliefe, or Bathurst yet. I just can’t deal with the agony those courses would bring with this steering model.
I’m going to give REDGameGuru’s suggestion a go and see what happens. I’m also going to try hard setting the DOR on the wheel base and see what that does because I had to do that for Forza 5 to make it playable.
Quite funny enough I actually had a rather big improvement today as well by turning simulation assist of and drop back to normal steering. And suddenly your zero outside steering deadzone started to feel better as well. With assisted steering the force feedback was acting really weird and unpredictable. It feels to me the amount of force feedback you set under advanced settings also influences the weird behaviour of the TX in general.
Each time the TX is powered up it sets the sensitivity to 1 right? So in your case you have to manually set it to 4 each gaming session?
About the hardware DOR and the in-game DOR. It seems to me the in-game settings overwrite the hardware settings when you open the ingame settings. But when you change the hardwar settings, the game doesn’t take these over anymore. In a Youtube video from Darren van Inside Sim Racing you see that in Forza 5 the game copies the hardware DOR as well.
Each time the TX is powered up, it saves its last known Sensitivity. Mine always powers up on 4 where I leave it.
The game will always override hardware settings. However, in game(during a race) you can change DOR through the wheel. However when you go back to the menus then back into a race, it defaults to whatever the game settings are.
I am running 270 DOR, sensitvity 4, Deadzones 0-20 NORMAL steering and its working great now! With sim steering it got a little out of control with these settings. So I went and tweaked the sensitivity and deadzones and it improved. For now, with the above settings, I am VERY happy. I am going to spend some time on Sim steering and tweak a bit more to see if I can get it better than what I have but its a HUGE improvement over using 900DOR 0-20 deadzones.
Not quite right, from TM’s Sensitivity Manual: “Note: The settings are not saved permanently. The racing wheel Automatically reverts to the Sensitivity Level 1 (ie default mode) When the system restarts or the wheel is disconnected from the system.”
My TX does exactly that, it returns to the default each time I restart it.
Interesting, every time I turn my Xbox on, the wheel is on Sensitivity 4 where I have had it set at. When I was using DOR 900 Sens-2 it would boot up at Sens-2. Strange…
Very nice RedGameGuru! And it’s not madness my friend (even though you’re moving it to “0” it is still defaulting to 20 btw). I’ve generally stayed away from these discussions because- just like tuning- it can be highly subjective to personal preference and driving ability. I’m a long time wheel user, I haven’t used a controller to race since part Forza 2 I think? Anyway, when Thrustmaster released new firmware in the summer of 2014 it included the new “sensitivity” function. The sensitivity ONLY applies on Xbox, it is an inactive/non-existent function when I’m using the TX on my PC (for PCars, iRacing, Assetto).
This is about as far as I care to explain this but- what the Forza Wheel settings menu is calling an “outside steering axis DZ” and what Thustmaster calls “sensitivity” essentially do they same thing but in different degrees/steps. They are not EXACT mirrors of each other, and they are both DOR and FFB strength dependent. So by realizing that the Forza “steering physics” are based on 270 DOR, your “on screen steering wheel” in cockpit view only ever rotates 90 degrees each way (180 DOR), the default wheel DOR has changed from 900 (in FM5) to 540 (in FM6),Thrustmaster released their own “sensitivity/Outside DZ” function almost 1 year after FM5 release and now FM6 FFB is stronger (and amplified even more so by the TX sensitivity function, it does it to PCars too)- you can see where all the wide variety of “this game and/or wheel sucks!” are coming from.
I don’t use these settings exactly, but they make sense, so I gave them a run in D,B, S and P class- and I would personally HIGHLY recommend them. I use No Assists, No Line and Sim Steering/Cockpit view. My settings are similar in principle/nature but more adapted to a top of the leaderboard type of required feel/style.
Like REDGameGuru says: do yourself a favor and TRY IT!
Sweet! I’m glad this adjustment has helped someone else. I rarely post on message boards but after I found this tweak, I felt wrong for not posting. Hopefully it will help othe TX drivers enjoy the game.
Wow these settings are exactly what I needed. I was running with the wheel on 360 and sensitivity 1 before and it made a big difference but I was still not being able to catch all the over steering. Changing to these settings made it feel exactly how it was when I used a wheel on FM3. I was instantly able to drop 2 seconds off my time in the stock eBay bmw 1 series. With the old settings it took me 11 laps to get my best time. I shattered that with two laps around the circuit on these setting. Can actually control a p1 with no assist on rio now. This is exactly what I needed
(even though you’re moving it to “0” it is still defaulting to 20 btw). I’ve generally stayed away from these discussions because- just like tuning- it can be highly subjective to personal preference and driving ability. I’m a long time wheel user, I haven’t used a controller to race since part Forza 2 I think? Anyway, when Thrustmaster released new firmware in the summer of 2014 it included the new “sensitivity” function. The sensitivity ONLY applies on Xbox, it is an inactive/non-existent function when I’m using the TX on my PC (for PCars, iRacing, Assetto).