Not all the functionality on the wheel is utilised and some buttons are double mapped, but that’s an Xbox thing (will only accept same inputs as available on a controller)
Thanks also for the info about the wheel. Does it have to be hard mounted? I am unable to hard mount my wheel and pedals. I can’t keep it in front of the tv, and I use the same table for my piano lessons. That’s one reason I went with what I did.
Thanks again @KTR0N_0001!
CSL GT DD Pro is the wheel BASE (big black square thing with the motors etc) that the wheel plugs onto.
Fanatec compatibility can seem a bit complicated but:
PS Compatibility is via the wheel base
Xbox Compatibility is via the Wheel itself
Everything is PC Compatible.
So no matter what wheel base you use, if you use an xbox compatible wheel, it will work with xbox.
Thus I got the CSL GT DD Pro (with 8nm boost stock) even though it was more expensive than the normal CSL DD with boost because they actually had it in stock and I didn’t want to wait for it to be in stock and then find out something else I wanted wasn’t. I figure resale might be higher if I ever want to upgrade (I don’t).
Then I add the Xbox McLaren wheel and the whole thing works with xbox as it should.
Hey just a heads up since you ordered that McLaren wheel. I’ve had one for a couple years and the plastic mount that they use to clamp it to your direct drive base WILL start to fail. The problem is the sleeve that slides over the wheelbase cylinder (the part that spins) has a very thin plastic groove inside that lines it up with the wheelbase connection. Over time that plastic will wear and you will get some very slight and possibly unnoticeable slippage between the wheel and wheelbase. This will cause intermittent disconnects with the wheel during races.
I highly recommend doing what I did and ordering a metal quick release replacement for that component from Fanatec . They’re relatively inexpensive and then you will have an all-metal connection between your wheel and your wheelbase. I was able to get mine with a slight discount because I called after a few months and complained about the disconnects and pointed out that other people online had the same issue. Basically it’s because they used plastic to keep the cost down instead of metal for the Lock Mount that connects the wheel to the wheelbase. If you need any more info let me know.
We’re just 52 days till the Hype Train arrives at Launch Day and we can finally stop speculating and get driving!
I look forward to spending a lot more time driving and less time here. Hopefully see some of you on track (most especially our sceptics here as it will mean the game is definitely good and I hope everyone will enjoy it)
One thing that I want to note to you my friend, our friend @Banjacked8153 is the one who helped finalize the decision to get FM23 when I was a bit hesitant.
As you may recall that I’m of the minority who liked the BuildersCup as a single player career mode.
Withe latest monthly and the matchmaking system I feel that I might enjoy multi-player too.
The current issue am facing is upgrading my system. There are some technical details that I would love to know soon:
Which is the best aspect ratio for the monitor, is it 21:9 or sould I keep the 16:9.
If 16:9 ratio is the one, is the game playable on big screen TV like 85" or 98" and what refresh rate? The 120hz is way more expensive than the 60hz @ 4K.
Would 4k -in highest graphics settings and good frame rate- be achievable with 3090 or 4090 is a must. Current offers on gaming PCs with the older graphic card with all other things the same about 40% lower.
What RAM memory should I go for, 32, 64, or all the way to 128 gb?
Past experience with steering wheel in Horizon didn’t work for me due to delays that made existing curves a nightmare. Is it different in Motorsport, or should I stick to the controller.
These questions will not be answered when they announce the minimum and recommended PC requirements.