TH8a Thrustmaster Shifter not recognized by XboxOne / Forza 7.

I can’t get my TH8a Shifter to be recognized by either my Xbox One and Forza 7 (or any game). The web articles recommend downloading the drivers and latest firmware. I also have the T3PA-PRO ADD-ON and the TMX Force Feedback Wheel.

I’ve downloaded the contol panel and firmware updates for both my TMX FF Wheel and the shifter. They appeared to both be at the current firmware already, but I updated both anyway. My wheel and pedals are working fine and automatically in Forza 7, but the shifter is not recognized.

Any ideas on how to get this working? I’ve tried Forza Horizon 3 and Forza 7, both of which are listed as supported games for the TH8 shifter. Neither recognized it.

I’ve just started to have that problem.

It was working working fine, then a couple of weeks ago, it simply stopped working. I can connect it to my PC and using the control panel, all of the gears register properly as you select them. My shifter is using the latest firmware.

I’ve tried full reboots of the console, as well as other games and it’s not being recognized at all. I’ve also put a new connector between the shifter and the TX Racing Wheel.

Have you had any luck resolving this?

Are you using the DIN connector plugged directly into the wheels base? The TH8A shifter will only work on the xbox one using that configuration. The USB cable is for use as a standalone device on the PC, and I believe some games will use the shifter on playstation with the USB cable.

Yes, I’m using the DIN connector to the wheel, and tested on the PC with the USB connector.

I’ve plugged the wheel into to PC as well and while you can’t test the connectivity of the shifter, everything else on the wheel checks out.

I figured you did, since you said yours was working. My question was aimed at the original poster. I should have quoted his post to make it clear. Sorry.

I am not sure about your issue, other than the din cable or connector being damaged; or some other issue.

I am also having this issue. Just bought a new DIN cable at 40 bucks. Ouch. Still having the issue. Works fine when testing with usb on pc. But will not recognize when on Xbox one. Someone please help!

Firmware is also updated for both. I have checked for continuity on the wire, and even pulled the cap off of the TMX and have continuity of wires all the way through to the circuit board.

I’m very confused. I just bought the TH8A and am super frustrated I haven’t been able to use it yet. :thinking:

I believe this is an XBox update problem. I’ve owned this shifter for years and it has worked flawlessly in Forza 5, 6, and 7, Horizon 2, 3, and 4 as well as other driving games. The shifter stopped working with all games around the middle of February this year. The fact that it no longer works with older games which have not had recent updates makes me believe tha Microsoft, as usual, is the culprit. Sadly, everyone knows how slowly Microsoft responds to problems. I wouldn’t expect a fix any time soon.

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I agree. However; I have friends who are playing on Xbox and it is still working. I don’t get it. :thinking:

My next step is to swap out my wheel and shifter with my buddy’s and hope to see if there is an issue directly pointing at the wheel and/or shifter. Or possibly directly at my Xbox. :man_shrugging:t2:

I just got this setup and want to use it as something other than a paperweight! Lol

If I hadn’t packed it in almost completely a few months ago after giving up on the endless empty promises of fixing the online races (etc), I was planning to buy this to upgrade my TMX Pro setup with gated shifter. I guess I should be glad I didn’t waste any more money (or time) on this game.

I still drop by here when setting on conference calls that I have no real reason to be on but they want me there “just in case”, bored (at this moment), and other diversions have played out. Just hoping for some good news, but mostly what I find are these expanding issues/problems. Hardware issues, FFB issues, lights not working in night races (I quit night races due to this some months back) and the list goes on.

I did get the urge one night last week and raced with the drivatars a few times and enjoyed it, but other than a few rare races, that’s gotten pretty boring. So it’s not a total loss. But I literally had to wipe the dust off my wheel and seat to play…

If I could find some sap to give me a decent price for my x1 and rig, I would move onto PS4 and SGT right now. And have been ever closer to cutting my losses (eating my losses) and pulling the trigger as the weeks and lies go on, and on, and on, and…

Sadly, I agree with you.

Forza really made a mess of Horizon 4, and I didn’t play Forza 7 long enough to figure out if liked it, because it too suffered badly from the changes to their physics engine which they claim have made the game better. Like Microsoft, Forza’s response to most problems is deny, deny, deny despite the overwhelming evidence in their own forums that things are badly broken. Forza must know this situation is happening; wouldn’t it be proactive for them to approach Microsoft and work out why so many people are having problems? It’s not like games are cheap; after paying close to $150 for the ultimate edition of Horizon 4, I’m considering dumping the franchise because every new version of their games is worse than the last (except for the looks of course).

It’s unfortunate because I’ve been driving The franchise since Forza 2. While I haven’t always loved it, for the most part, it was really, really good. Not now, and maybe never again.

T10 havent changed the physics. If you are talking in regards to the wheel FFB, those where just Force feedback changes; those are not something that change the physics. Just the way the wheel reads the force feedback information the game is sending to it. The collisions update/changes are probably the only thing I can think off, that even remotely touches the physics themselves.

You also cant blame Microsoft and/or T10 if your shifters/wheels have broken over time, thats not their fault. They dont make the wheels and their specific addons, Thrustmaster/Logitech/Fanatec do. If you have issues with your specific wheel hardware, you need to take it up with whichever company made your particular wheel/addons.

My question to those having issues, are you in a situation where you can leave your wheels connected/setup perminently; or do you need to disconnect them all the time to put them away?
I ask this, because cables and connectors to break/loosen over time. Especially if you are constantly winding them around something to keep them tidy while not in use. Its also highly possible that the din connector on the wheel itself is the culprit, and could have become damaged from repeated connections being made over time.

I had the issue with a broken USB cable on an old TX wheel because of that situation, and also a cable on a G27 pedal set suffering a similar sort of breakage. Just from being repeatidly moved over time. Lesson learnt, I got a wheel stand for my G920, which now houses my T300RS. Cables, especially on USB peripisihals that are constantly setup/put away, are very often the weakest part of those devices.

My TH8A shifter works perfectly on the PC, but that is using the USB cable. The Din cable has never been used on my shifter, so I cant test it for you. But my experiance is telling me that your issues are your own, and outside of the console/game itself.

Thanks for determining that my system is broken, sorry I wasn’t around when you inspected it. I guess everyone who has the identical problems have broken their systems too.

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Its either a broken connection on the wheel itself where the Shifter connects, or the din cable is broken. The shifter obviously still works, if you have used it on the PC with its USB cable. And as I said in my last post, cables are always the weak points. If you are repeatedly putting it away and setting it up, you cause damage each time you wind the cables. You also damage/weaken the connectors each and every time you plug them in and unplug them. I’ve experienced that myself in the past, and one of the reasons why I use a wheel stand now; which has the cables zip tied into place so they cant move.

Either way, this isnt T10’s fault, or Microsofts fault. You all need to take this one up with Thrustmaster. This is a hardware warranty/repair/replace issue with them. No one here can help you, only the company that made your wheel hardware. If the TH8A shifter not working was a wider issue with the game on the Xbox console, there would be a lot of people all complaining about this. The TX and TMX with the TH8A shifter, are very popular combinations on the Xbox platform.

You say you have used the TH8A shifter all through FM5/6/7/FH2/FH3/FH4. So I assume in your case, you have had that wheel and shifter since around 2013/2014? That is potentially a lot of cable movement over 5 years, depending on how you have it all set up.

From Thrustmaster-

“We thank you for providing the requested information

Everything seems to be configured properly, now you need to contact the Game manufacture, and ask for the
configurations settings , we know by the fact that, With the H pattern plate installed, the TH8A will
not work in FH 4 unless the ?Manual with Clutch? option is selected in the menu of the game.

= With all Xbox One games, always connect the TH8A shifter directly to the Thrustmaster racing
wheel’s base (NEVER to the game console’s USB port).

  • Connect the TH8A shifter’s DIN connector to the DIN / DIN detachable cable.
  • Connect the TH8A shifter to the shifter connector located at the back of the racing wheel’s base. -
    Connect your racing wheel, then start the game.
    The TH8A shifter can then operate with either the H-PATTERN (7+1) or SEQUENTIAL (+/-)
    shift plates.”

Again, this works 100% on PC and will not recognize through any game. Through thirstmasters provided control panel, both are updated fully, and both have a “good” status with working controls.
I have bought a new DIN cable, and have checked the continuity all the way through to the circuit board insied the wheel, past the DIN connector on the wheel, and have not seen any evident circuit board malfunctions at all either.

While I appreciate the feedback; To me, it’s unfair for you to blame the tech, when everything is brand new, and you are running a PC without the issue affecting you.

Yep I’m also having this issue, can confirm it’s not the din cable as that cable works perfectly when I use it on the T300 on the ps4