Two quick questions: When buying new cars in FM7, the cars all come pre-tuned for their class. Is this the norm? If you want to race what FM7 considers a stock tune, you need to manually go into the car’s upgrade manager and choose “reset all upgrades” right? This is just different than what I’m used to and wanted to make sure this isn’t a menu setting somewhere I accidentally changed.
Second question is more of a legit annoyance: I mostly just do hot laps and the occasional AI race with a wheel setup. The game drives me crazy by not only changing the track to locations and weather settings I don’t like, but also by automatically restricting the division of the cars that will line up for the next race, meaning I can’t just go and change my car for a new track, I have to (usually) first change the track (sometimes just BACK to what it was in the previous race!) and then I have to go into the track menu and manually scroll through the 20+ divisions to get back to “any”.
Again, am I just “doing it wrong”? Ideally I’d like to take Suzuka in the Rain and Top Gear Anything out of the loop of available tracks or turn off track rotation in “free race” mode entirely…and I’d like to make the default division “Any Division” since the game seems smart enough to limit races to Pi/Class settings regardless.
Is this just how it is or did I screw up some menu setting I can’t find…
When buying a vehicle, you can buy it stock parts fitted - then manually upgrade it yourself.
The game career & freeplay structure was built mainly around the idea of homologation. Each division of cars has it’s own little set of rules about what tyres you can fit, what horsepower you can use etc to fit within that homologation. When you buy with homologated parts fitted, it’s the games way of getting you set up for the upcoming races you’ll use it in. You can still change upgrades on the car (within the division rules) and build it your way - doesn’t matter which option you choose when buying the car. If this auto feature wasn’t there - a lot of casual players would find the process of upgrading every single car to fit within the rules pretty frustrating - hence the auto option.
If you are running cars to the max of their class (say for running in rivals) - then yes you’re better off building them yourself as you can have more freedom to tailor the car how you want.
If you’re in freeplay and just want to run the same race again, with same settings etc - just choose restart at the end. You will still get all your race rewards etc for having run the previous race but you won’t change track (or any other settings). Again I think the rotation is there just for the casual player who wants to race offline but almost like a multiplayer situation where it’s just going to keep throwing tracks at you one after another (you do have a skip track option as well if something you really don’t want to run comes up).
In the free race menu, set the division option to ANY, then press the right button twice to a sub menu and limit the cars max PI to the PI you’re running. You will then race against a range of vehicles upto that PI level (or maybe not as Forza will probably pick 23 cars that are the same).
If I remember correctly, after the race you can either go to restart as DamMe says or if you press X you can cycle randomly through lap / weather (they repeat a lot).
The game was designed around homologation. The idea that anyone would want to build a car to the top of a class or to any PI level was of no concern.
Hence, this change impacted everything and resulted in a lot of bad reviews. T10 later made changes to fix issues, but the raw structure of the game is still there and creates some annoyance with menus, finding homologation leaderboards, and car purchases.
The game isn’t always user friendly. Sorry about your struggles.
I figured out the “press X to skip this track” part, that’s something I literally looked right through each time. That’s on me. And yeah after the race you can simply go back, I kept hitting “Next Race” like a bit of a dumb#ss.
Thx for the tip on limiting PI…now I’m back to deciding if its my wheel settings or the fact that I’m not adjusting the rear differentials enough that’s putting me into spin city, my guess its both.