deadzones to 0 apparently fix (might be why I never had it).
Also for those that want to play around with the FFB PER CAR settings here is a basic explanation of settings that you can start to dabble with from WMD forums.
General FFB strength
Output strength of the FFB to the wheel after it has been calculated by the FFB engine. This is basically the final ‘volume’ adjustment of the FFB. This means that if the FFB is clipping, turning the FFB strength down won’t help anymore.
Tyre Force
This is the strength of the tyre contribution to the FFB, which is also the main contributor to the FFB. If the FFB is too high or too low for all cars, you can adjust this value to get it equally stronger/weaker for all cars.
The car-specific settings
These you want to adjust when the FFB of one car is good while for the next car it’s too weak or strong (or has a wrong subjective balance of the individual force contributors).
Spindle Master Scale: this scales the forces below it equally up and down, i.e. it’s the FFB ‘volume knob’ specifically for that car. Turn it down if the FFB is clipping, and up if it’s too weak.
Fx: this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking, but I haven’t really experimented with this one yet.
Fy: this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering.
Fz: this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the ‘road feel’ of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road.
Mz: this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the ‘classic’ feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip.
So when you want a particular force to stand out in the FFB, raise its relative contribution to the total FFB, and after that adjust the Spindle Master Scale value if necessary to get the FFB stay within the full range (i.e. not clipping or getting too weak).
Thanks for the tip DUST. I am using mode 3 with Ma5hed settings. I found his settings suit me best so I can learn the physics and then I may adjust the settings later. I did notice that locked in one direction feeling while pushing the M4 GT3 hard at Zolder and RA. I will try to remember to let the stick center before counter steering.
So far Project cars is a breath of fresh air on the PC. Driving in third person and first cockpit view is awesome. The handling, the sound, the visuals are all very well done. Driving with an xbox one controller has been excellent for me. I hope the Xbox version is close to the PC version.
Spent a couple of hours trying to get the TX sorted last night. I was driving the clio around Catalunya and it felt like the wheel was at 1500 degrees of rotation and non-linear to boot. Following the wheel calibration instructions in-game produced an advertised DOR of 270 but I suspect there may have been a problem ‘between the user and the keyboard’. Will try again tonight armed with more information. Graphics are a bit flattened on XB1 but trackside they are at least on a par with FM. There is a lot of promise in there I can tell already, but this is definitely a game that requires a hefty learning curve and some commitment to bring out all it has to offer.
lol I think I’ve sussed it. I may have tried doing it with the wheel away from its self-calibrated centre. Having done that once, all subsequent efforts were probably poisoned. Will give it a go with a freshly booted wheel.
Like most everyone else here I’m truly loving this game, once I got My head around all the settings and got on track with a set up suited to me the game just felt right.
Can’t compare it to Forza because imho it’s apples and pears, PC is a "Racing " game forza is a driving game different people will favour one over the other for sure.
But PC certainly has its place and I can see it doing very very well.
overall PCars is different in TC department. its harder, need to be more gentle. I don’t like it, as its not like in real life where you fight a track, not a car.
wonder how many people will like this sim and how Forza would react. I hope Forza will stick to their handling model and just add proper carrier and full race weekends.
I actually think Forza will stick with the handling model it has or close to it. I think there is a group that will like PCars and a group that will like Forza and I am not sure the two need to meet in the middle.
I’m having a bit of a mere I’m finding most things locked it won’t even let me change my button layout with out telling me I have allocated all the options
Hi Dust,
I’ve done that but still no joy. I’m really struggling with gear shift with the default layout the steering I’ll get used to but the shifting is all wrong for me.
I’ve now assigned every button on the pad including all for points on the stick and pushing it in and it still won’t play ball it’s like I need a extra remote or some thing.
I can’t even leave that screen with out it setting every option back to default.
Downloaded it last night, only had time for a quick blast so far. Need to spend some time and figure the button mapping out but I already prefer it to Forza .
Don’t have time to read this whole thread, but what are the basic impressions of the handling?
I’m fearful of it feeling like Shift…i.e. floaty… The Twitch vids I’m watching look decidedly planted though. Sounds appear off, but Forza has spoiled us there, so not a huge deal. Graphics obviously look amazing, but I just don’t really trust reviews anymore.
But, if it’s a good game, I’m happy to drop the money and support a small developer.