Ive been having lots of fun trying to get this tune to work on a B 600 toyota trueno with a
RWD 1.6L I4-Turbo Rally conversion
removed restrictors
race brakes
race springs and dampers
front and back race anti-roll bars
race transmission
race driveline
race differential
stock tire compound
235/35r16 front tires
255/25r18 rear tires
P45R sportrims
street rear bumper,side skirts and hood
HP 497
torque 589
0-60 in 4.974
0-100 in 9.105
60-0 in 123.9 ft
120-0 in 305.3 ft
top speed 167
lateral G’s of
1.11 at 60
1.09 at 120
tuning is a bit rough and im onto something but i cant figure out which needs to be adjusted
tires are 27.0 PSI
i want it to remain in B class around 600 PI with the rally conversion and restrictor plates removed .
already read worms break down of tuning only problem i cant make heads or tails of it, but more or less i just need a helpful push in the right direction to get this car to grip the road a little better maybe drifting it as well.
Those roll bars seem awfully soft in the front and stiff in the back, especially for a shorter wheelbase car.
What tracks are you aiming for, or just an overall banger? My first thought is with fifty and upping your aero considerably.
You say you want it “more grippy”, but what problems are you having specifically? Is it slippery coming out of corners? Is it over/under-steering? Is the car “sloppy” and having a problem with S-sections and back-and-forths? Is it too stiff/responsive? Try to be as specific as you can in describing the problem(s) so that we can help you better.
starts to under-steer mid turn spins under acceleration going in lead finger mostly sloppy is a understatement wont go down a straight with out burning out till its in 3rd gear.
tends to be too responsive in the back and forths…half of my problem is driver technique.
Breaking the tires loose on corner exit and down a straight can be helped by two things (at least!):
Throttle control, which you can work on. Practice on rolling on the power, not “punching it”… This will help you with every car.
Adjusting the differential accel value down. You have it set to 70, which is pretty high for a high horsepower car. Drop it to 60, then test drive it. Is it better or not? If not, try dropping it down another 2 pts, then try it again. On the diff accel values, 2 pts makes a difference! Keep adjusting down by 2 pts a time until you get it manageable.
It is possible that a lower horsepower build will help! You can use excess PI for handling upgrades. As mentioned in another reply, trading the race tranny for a street one will give you a lot more PI to play with…IF the gears are spaced okay with your engine swap. If not, then you might need the race tranny.
Also, you may not want to drop it into 1st in even slow corners. 2nd gear might be a better choice, just for traction’s sake.
at this point whatever i can get im a complete novice at tuning but surprising as it may sound i was having some luck on Rio full circuit, road america, hockenheimring short course, circuit decatalunta grand prix as well national circuit. trying to get a feel for what the car can and cant do mostly.
Quick look. I would ditch the race transmission for street for most tracks. It would save a bunch of PI. Uses the sport for the long tracks.
I’ve been messing with this car for C class with some success.
Also maybe go with 435hp and drop the weight.
First impression. This cars is a power/acceleration build. With 1.6 motor, it wont every be a grippy build.
I had a similar trueno build already on yas north. I ran a 1:17.1 with your specs. I found the transmission set way low. I max out your final gear and ran a 1:16.1. Again the race tranny is a waste of some PI. This track needs a sport. The front sway bar is too soft.
Judging by your transmission settings. I’m not sure you understand the unique powerband. The car should never be revved past 5500rpm. It makes all of its power 4000-5500, you will lose seconds per lap if not short shifting. The more also has a lot of Turbolag, so you have to keep it spooled up. I find TCS helps a ton dealing the lag and abrupt power delivery.
short shifting is fine if im just setting a lap time but rpm control in a crowd who will smash into you the first chance they get kinda makes things annoying but ill adjust according. since youll be shifting a lot with this car with the conversion feels like you do need the race transmission in but ill try it without just have to make a few tweaks then maybe then ill be able to work in the street compound…guessing that engine is for rally racing hence why its called turbo rally.
Speaking to the build, it all depends on what you are aiming for. As someone else mentioned, the street can save you a LOT of PI. I went to do your build and:
With street = 581
With race box = 600
That’s 19 PI! And looking at the street, the gears actually look decently spaced. So unless you’re aiming for speed (which, to be quite honest I don’t think it would be a very good speed car), I would build it with these changes to your’s:
Street box
Full Cage
Street Weight reduction
I think you can put lighter rims on as well
Or maybe try more weight reduction with less cage.
I personally don’t think you would need the race box but ultimately its up to you.
Im testing this car on YAS north. The sport transmission pretry useful for the staight. It’s only 4 PI but I went with the lightest wheels and hood which like 40lb. This basic build probably could run top 10 here. Now if I went with short version, streel trans all day.
Again this motor need tall gears to keep from revving past 5500rpm.
That last part is definitely true. I just looked at the top speed and saw “153” with the street so figured that would be good for most of the smaller tracks.
The sport really only cost 4? I thought it was only about 3 or 4 less than the race (so 15-16 PI). Sorry, not on my xbox any more had to run out of the house
Sorry that’s what I ment, it drop the PI by only 4 points from a race tranny, but it was worth it for my test teack.
Also. The bench mark doesn’t tell the whole story about top speed. When this engine revs pass 5500, it takes forever to keep accelerate enough to hit its top speed. My tunes top speed rating is 180mph, but it’s really only effective to about 165mph. Most engine hit the top speed faster.
Yeah, like I said I just looked at that rating quick and then had to run out of the house. But looking at this car now, I’m liking the 3.7 way more than the 1.6; mostly because like you said, it may need the sport tranny… I would do this OP:
3.7 swap
Centrifugal S/C
Race centrigual S/C
Race exhaust
Street transmission (rated @ 169.9 mph but I haven’t drove it yet)
And with that you can fit:
Full cage
Full weight reduction s
Ends up being:
6.3
5.0
8.5
5.1
And when I go to load it from the 1.6 build all 4 are green
Thats just my opinion on the build, if you are set on the 1.6 then you are set on the 1.6 lol
Set a time on a power/accelerate track (sebring) you don’t have a time for. Put down a solid lap with 1.6, then run against it with your build. I would also recommend a 5.7/centrifugal build and compare as well
I have ghost for the sebring full, If want to test againt . I found ur build more user friendly, but get’s killed on the straights. I haven’t had a chance to build a 5.7 version, but I suspect it would some where in the middle.
Try adjusting ur rear toe to negative .4 and if that plants the car to much or you want more turn in then adjust front to .2 and easy your way back down to zero as you test the car but the rear toe will help plant the car and positive will add more turn in towards the front. Use those as starting and adjust as required before changing your setup. Didn’t read the full thread but race tires with full width will add a tremendous amount of grip and hopefully u won’t have to sacrifice too much power.
