So, what is considered good handling for each class? I want to know everyone’s opinions on what the best handling cars for each class, but still has good balance for speed and acceleration to keep it competitive, I either go too much on handling when it comes to E to B or too little, let me see your opinions, if you want to name cars go ahead
I only really race A Class, but you’re looking for 5.6-5.8 handling on mid range tracks and 6 or above for full grip circuits, although you can get away with a bit lower depending on the cars.
B class 5.2 to 5.5 handling A class 5.7 to 5.9 handling S class 6.2 to 6.4 handling all these ranges are alround builds examples of cars might be rx7 b class mercury cougar a class and McLaren f1 s class.
If you’re asking how to define a good handling car (not just PI numbers) you want a car that’s both balanced (meaning both ends of the car can grip somewhat equally) and a car that doesn’t do anything suddenly or surprisingly.
All cars have a limit to their grip. Most cars give you subtle warnings when their adhesion limit is approached. Generally the higher the grip the less warning you get when the traction is lost. It’s that “cushion of warning” you fiddle with to maximize grip, so the more grip you get out of a car (through suspension, chassis and tire tuning) the more of that “cushion of warning” disappears. You’re sacrificing that friendly and gradual loss of grip for a higher grip but a more abrupt transition\reaction when that grip is exceeded.
Through tuning you tweak a car’s grip and predictability. Because of this some of the fastest cars may seem very twitchy to you - it takes a good driver to get the car to its grip limit, manage and maintain that grip and avoid getting to that point where the loss of traction will break the car too loose.
The Mazda Cosmo is a car that comes to mind. When tuned it can grip like a banshee, but that grip is a razor thin balancing act - if you ham fist it it will feel like it’s always sliding and very twitchy. If you recognize the car’s limits, approach those limits in a smooth and calculating way it will reward you with tremendous traction.
I hope that’s what you were looking for.
You’ll need multiple builds. Thats the problem. You’ll need a mega grip tune, a grip tune with a little oomph, a tune that is kind of in the middle, a high acceleration tune, and an all out power + top end tune.
For D class it ranges from 4.0 - 5.7. When tuned right, muscle cars can handle really good at 4.0-4.4 range. 4.8-5.0 for other cars is good for most tracks. 5.4-5.7 will work for some cars and still put down crazy times. A Cosmo is the perfect example. If you get the tune right, that car is one of the easiest things to drive. Fortunately there are a few shared. They aren’t the best tune because that one hasnt been shared, however what is out there will set #1s to top 10s.
Yea, as swerve said you will need more than one.
It’s kind of a tricky question to answer and surely someone has data regarding what range is the best for each track, however the question should not so much be about the class it needs to refer to tracks. Because while you 4.0 handling d class car may be awful at laguna seca it may be great at monza. You need to characterize all of the tracks and use the max grip tunes at max grip tracks etc.
Up through at least class A, maybe even class S, a good handling car for me is one where I can go full throttle from the exit of turn 1 at the Glen to the brake zone for the bus stop. If that works I know I will like the handling just about anywhere.
I’ve used a strategy kind of like this, with different tracks. I’ve used Hockenheim, Watkins Glen, and Yas Marina amongst others to test particular elements of a tune. I always make one tune per car, so I don’t waste (at least that’s how it feels to me) time with super-detailed tunes for each track. I prefer a car to work well everywhere, just like the ones I work on in real life. I find it more satisfying to come up with a good all-rounder tune, anyway.
I also prefer to go with general tunes. I don’t find that I ever gain much time on the track working to optimize beyond making the car handle the way I want it to.
Then you’re doing something wrong. No way your car is competitive at the Alps, Daytona (road course), Sebring, lime rock, Sonoma, and Silverstone all at the same time. You’ll need at least 3 builds plus 1 base tune (with minor tweaks to aero and roll bars) to do that.
I have found that some of the older muscle cars are pretty well broadened races. If you get them to turn they’re pretty good (for me anyways) on most tracks save the Nurburg ring . . .
Lol. Im known for my muscle cars. I know how easy it is to make a car that’ll do good on most the tracks. You’ll still need 3 builds for the car though. One build for Daytona and another (if PI available) to add a ton of grip for lime rock/laguna seca. One of my most popular tunes (Holden Monaro) is probably one of the best examples of a car that can be used on most tracks and still turn killer laps. However you’ll get dusted at the high grip or all power/no aero tracks.
I’m guessing this is why hardly anyone finishes when at Daytona. They are all using full aero cars. Take the aero off and bam it’s a few seconds faster.
I mean I don’t know who you are and I’m sure you’re very fast, but my tunes (which never use aero unless the car comes with it) are pretty generally competitive. Usually I have particular cars for the “fast” tracks like Le Mans, but otherwise most of my tunes work anywhere. Maybe it’s just the lobbies I get plopped into, who knows.
Partly lobbies and partly driver skill. Most people can’t take advantage of a well built muscle car. You are correct about no aero though. Muscle cars don’t really need it to be competitive online as long as the balance is good.
I’m not doing anything wrong, I’m playing the game how I enjoy playing it.
You’re confusing tuning with building. There are two completely different menus for building a car and then tuning it.
I know the difference between tuning and building. I’m no rookie.
I didn’t realize you were saying general tunes for however many builds you had for the car. That’s the same approach I take unless I determine the car has top 10 potential.
Yeah, how many builds I have depends on how often I care to go back to the car. Some cars I have several builds over multiple classes, others… maybe one. But what I’ve found with tuning is that most cars don’t need too much work; add some camber for grip, tweak the dampers for transitional balance adjustments, etc. I think if there’s one setting that I apply huge changes to it would be the differential settings, that makes a surprisingly big difference for some cars.
Are you trying other builds or just tunes? A better track specific build is going to get you more time than just adjusting the tune.
Yeah, I differentiate between building and tuning. If I’m looking to go faster on a specific track I’ll mess with the build to see what I can get. I don’t spend much time in the tuning menu looking for speed.
When you’re racing in leagues at the top of the boards track specific tunes are essential to get that 2/100ths over equally talented drivers. In the middle of the leaderboards and it’s not so much. I was totally unaware of how much difference track specific tunes could make until I ran in a BTCC championship. That was a few years ago now and I still use the same methodologies i picked up then when pushing a rival or whatever. lol. The only difference now is all my tunes are built to work around the fact I have a barely functioning left hand. So my times are seconds off what they used to be, so i need all the help i can get! lol
There are some tunes that will work for numerous tracks but there will always be one or two tracks where you’ll suffer. It also comes down to driver skill though. Some people will barely scrape through with 5.5 handling, while another guy will fly through with 4.2 handling even though the rest of the car is identical.
People often forget the tune is as much about the driver as it is about the car. You make up for defincies in mechanics and ability, fixing the car and the driver by meeting in the middle. This is why tunes that are highly rated may do nothing for you. You’re not that kind of driver. That’s why people like Raceboy will put up a couple of tunes for different things, like wheel or controller, grip or speed, manual or auto. They all affect the tune in myriad ways. This is why I tell people to learn to tune for themselves. There are some great resources out there and you’ll end up with cars tailored exactly to you, not generic tunes. It’ll make you more competitive and make the game more fulfilling. I’m not saying the well known tuners don’t do great work as they do. But if you want cars tailored to your ability and driving style, the best way is to DIY.
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