Just a quick question about the Thread Title, to Dust. Since it seems to me that we have come to the conclusion that the FFB is not truly “Broken” is it maybe time to amend the Thread Title? From reading other threads there are people making decisions about purchasing , or not, saying that their reasons are the broken FFB among others, while still saying that they can’t be bothered to read the thread. I just think that the Title is misleading, but it is your thread.
Yea i am aware they have a trans designed for it. Im not saying i just slam it in gear. Many tractor trailer drivera shift withoit clutch. Rev matching is quite simple and doesnt damage transmission. Not talking abour power shifting.
You can downshift without the clutch on any gearbox without doing damage if your timing and technique is right. Just make sure you’re in neutral, rev above the match point and be ready to slide into gear when the revs drop to the match point. Do it right and it slides smoothly into gear.
Shouldn’t do damage. Dog boxes are designed to be downshifted in this manners but it does work on your typical consumer grade gearbox too.
Useful to know how to do this when left foot braking as you don’t need to transfer braking to your right foot to clutch in with the left and then heel-toe, all while continuing to modulate brakes. If you’re in a situation where this is useful there is probably a lot happening quickly already and it’s nice not to have extra things to worry about.
You can do clutchless upshifts but it’s slower to wait for the revs to fall than it is to just use the clutch. Good skill to have if your clutch cable breaks maybe?
A driving sim should handle this properly, I might give it a go as it certainly is a skill In haven’t worked on.
If it would be simulated properly, you would need a gear stick with force feedback. If the difference in rotational speed between both axles in the gearbox is high, the force to put it into gear is much higher and it takes time to slow down the synchro’s before it just slides in.
It is also physically impossible to get the gearbox into another gear if the revs don’t match up exactly and you will grind gears if you push hard enough. This is why it’s impossible to simulate proper gearbox behavior with the current hardware. Just slamming it in at the wrong revs like you can with current simulation gearsticks would heavily upset the entire drivetrain if it were at all possible to actually do.
In a real car you can softly push the syncro with the gearstick after you blip the engine and it slides in gear when the right rpm is reached. You do want to pull it out of gear on the exact moment there is no stress on the drivetrain when you release the throttle for the best results, and in a stressful situation that is probably not second nature. Learning how to do that properly hasn’t been on my mind yet, I’m more comftable using heel and toe in my car.
Playing with an actual working force feedback shifter would be really cool though
Just a quick tip/reminder before we all dive in . . .
Based on the demo- DOR settings do have a big impact on how ffb is delivered (feel.) The tighter the DOR the shorter range all the ffb effects are transmitted to you. I’m guessing here a bit, but based on my testing with the road going Porsche- 540 may be too tight (and also not a realistic DOR) for road going cars. I’m going to start at 720. It’s definitely worth testing before pounding the forums with “ffb is broken” posts. Hoping for the best here, as well as some level of track fx- more than just kerbs and cobblestone.
i have all, but no self aligning torque, the base !! at the end of a corner, the wheel has to replace itself, and with 1080° you feel it, like with project cars 2, assetto corsa, dirt 4 or dirt rally, or wrc 7 , or iracing or rFactor 2,
But here nothing, i’m very disappointed, i will make a rest cause I have my hope broken, all what was said about FFB is true, i regret i have to stop forza.
Using my T500rs the FFB feels so much better compared to the demo. So happy right now, the game was meant to be a birthday present as the proper release is on my birthday, but the money was put in my account to pay for it, so I ended up adding more to it so I could get the ultimate edition and play early. But yea I’m currently droning a MX-5 and it feels great, it’s definitely a giant leap forward compared to previous games in the series.
Massive problem with the FFB. After around 2 to 3 laps the wheel becomes extremely light and the vibration is almost 100% gone. For the first 2 to 3 laps it’s relatively fine.
I have to second that the FFB in the full game feels better than the Demo (least on the PC with my T300 RS-GT). All I have done since getting the game is put in track time. Thankfully for once we are able to skip right to the main menu when starting FM7, so no silly races before setting up the wheel (massive bonus for me). First I took out the BRZ around Mugello full, did 15 consecutive laps. At first things where not working very well, the wheel felt totally. After adjust the settings we came across in the demo however, I had tons of feedback to what the car was doing. With vibration set to 70% I can even feel the tires slipping, quite possibly the first time in Forza with a wheel I felt like leaving Vibration on is a good thing. Kerb feel is really good, feels intuitive and natural. Wheel responds rather well, quick to let you know the rear is stepping out; so able to correct a slide before it becomes an issue (least in the BRZ anyway). Even allowed for quite a bit of fun.
After the 15 solo laps around mugello, I decided to load up the Nords at night for a 4 lap race against the unbeatable ai with a full grid of BRZ’s. I wanted to see how the FFB reacts to trading a little paint, so I let the ai bash me around a bit. Was easy to keep the control, again, the FFB allowing me to react effectively. The race was finished without issue, the FFB remained for the entire 31 minute race. After I used the on wheel DOR adjustment to take out the Renault F1 car around suzuka, feels rather nice to drive as well; if a little tetchy on the throttle. Still lots of fun though.
Overall first impressions of the FFB in the full game are good. They could be better though, the game really lacks from not having soft lock. Given what I have seen in the full version of FM7 tonight though, I am more than willing to give Aaron the benefit of the doubt that soft locking is on the way; I just hope it arrives in FM7.
Its too early to tell if I will stick with the current wheel settings, but thus far I have just been using the settings from the demo.
0% wheel damping
15% centre spring
5% FFB Understeer (cant go lower than 5%
I did find that I had to put minimum FFB down to its lowest setting, which I didn’t have to touch in the demo. I found the FFB much better with it set all the way down though.
In the Thrustmaster software I have everything default, except for having gain at 65%.
These are just my starting settings, going to be playing with them a little more. For now though I am going to enjoy getting stuck into the career mode, as atm I cant do anything but head to free run with rental cars, lol.
Dust, for me I think FM7 my be a good purchase. I went into it with exceptionally low expectations, and I have come out pleasantly surprised. Least on the FFB front anyway. It isnt perfect, but it is absolutely a massive improvement over FM6 from where I am sitting. The only thing I need to do, is by a car and tune it for drifting; see if the self aligning holds up with street/sports tires on.
Hopefully Blue will pop along soon and add their two cents, they have good judgement over the FFB in Forza; and I am interested to see what they think as well.
Evan, are you on the xbox one or the PC? also, I forgot what wheel you use?
Without Leaderboards or lobbies where you can use multiple types of cars I seriously doubt it will matter or Aaron will get much more feedback. I’ve cancelled my order, doubt Dust gets it now either.