Fanatec v2 settings

Need some good setups for the wheel

I have the V2 as well here are my settings that I like
In game
Steering 1-100
Accel 2-100
Brake 2-100
Clutch 15-60 quicker no power zone but I don’t use it much as the new Fanatec does not have the auto clutch feature yet
Hand brake 1-100
540 DOR
I use full suggested line
ABS off
Sim Steering
TCS and Stability off
Shifting manual ( middle option )
Cosmetic as of now but will be turning off eventually like the suggested line
Now the settings for the wheel
Sen 540
FFB 50
SHO 70
ABS 67
Lin off
De a off
Dri 3 ( I am still playing with this as until today I always had it off so still a work in progress and I may be turning it back off )
BrF 50
This is with the Fanatec V3 pedals with the brake piston add on kit so it may be different if you have a different version of pedals.
Please let me know what you all think as I am always game to try other settings as well to see if I like them better.
I hope you like them though.

Thanks,…BrF settings is gone on my Wheel,but was in the demo,have v3 pedals,

Everything on my wheel is at default settings (auto, auto, so on and so forth). In game settings: all deadzones 0 to 100. FF and rumble at 100, and rotation at 900.

Edit: Oh, and just like FM5, don’t dare use sim steering with a wheel. It’s busted.

Fleaver, what’s broke? I use sim steering on 5 and now on 6 and really like it. I do however use 540 DOR. Keep in mind sim steering is just that no assists in the steering. You at 900 degrees have to turn the wheel from far left lock to the far right lock nearly 3 spins of the wheel then if you need to turn back its another 3 spins. How much longer do you think that will take than with a controller moving a joy stick. I run 540 and do pretty good there but you have to be pretty quick to react with the wheel or throttle and sometimes both to save once skidding. It’s that way in real life as well if you have ever spun at decent speed.

I used 900 with SIM steering in forza 4 but I can not find a setting that acts like forza 4 did with my carrera s or turbo wheel did. I really wish there was still a center , spring and damper setting in wheel for us to adjust. I feel that would help a bit but something still just does not feel right with the force feedback communication between the Xbox,forza and the wheel.

Does anyone else feel like horizon 2 had better feel? I thought there was progress between forza 5 to that game then it reverted back to the dullness of what forza 5 offered.

In FM5, FM6 Demo, and now FM6 (I haven’t yet tried FH2 with my wheel), this is what happens to me with sim steering: I take any stock vehicle and turn. When travelling mediocre speeds and less than 10 degrees of steering input (and under .5 g’s in telemetry) either the rear breaks loose, the front breaks loose, or both. About a 10% touch of the brake pedal (going by telemetry) while travelling straight results in the same thing… sudden and ridiculous sliding of the front or back axle. It’s like the physics have suddenly gone mental.

With all settings exactly the same except normal steering, the wheel feels fine. Absolutely no issues, and it still takes me ‘hand-over-hand’ countersteer to correct a nasty slide. All other games function as they should. I have tried Project Cars, GT6, and several PC sims.

I am sorry to hear this as I don’t think it’s a setting issue anymore ( your expierienced ) I have not noticed this problem or at least not bad enough to stand out to me but it may be because I run 540 Sim and not 900 Sim. I have never tried 900 for more than a minute or 2 and it was not for me. Turned too slow on sharp corners and like you said hand over hand makes it hard to correct any mistakes. I find 540 manageable and actually enjoy it. I hope you still have a great time with the game.

Hi there Fanatec users, i don’t recommend overwriting DOR (SEN) and FF in game and simultaneously in wheel.
Double DOR setting result multiplier of that value.

Latest FW:
Drivers: 226 beta
Firmware: 116

Every time starting V2, calibrate your pedals pushing them all the way down.

In wheel
SEN AUTO (already manage by Rotation value in game)
FF AUTO (anything other cause strange forces, key settings!)
SHO 100
ABS off
DRI 2-3 (easier countersteer)
theres no more known settings: FOR, SPR, DPR.

In game
no deadzones
Vibration 50-100
FF - 90-100
Rotation 540

My settings

In Wheel
FF 40-50
SHO 100
ABS 60
DIR 2-3

In game
no deadzones
Vibration 100
FF 100
Rotation 540

Stinger, do you drive manual or automatic? The reason I ask this is my dead zones are usually no lower than 1 or 2 if I have friends over that play on Automatic. The reason is in auto your brake becomes reverse once stopped but if the calibration is off just a bit and the gas doesn’t read 0 it can affect the reversing of the car or if the driver has their foot just lightly on the gas pedal it could just barely have it depressed and again it may affect the reversing of the car if needed. By leaving that 1 or 2% area fixes this and it is such a small dead zone that you will never notice it especially on that end of the throttle. How often do you really need the first 2% throttle to race? Now if it were the last 2% I would not even be writing this post as that is mandatory but the first is never needed for really anything. It just eliminates possible problems. When my friend kept saying it wasn’t switching into reverse it took me a long time to figure out why that was happening and was hard to notice as he was very lightly pressing the gas and when I would try to see what was happening I would let it all the way off so I didn’t have the problem. I hope this can help you or perhaps someone else who reads this. BTW I drive mostly in manual. Clutch I am not the best at yet but working on it.

While we’re talking about this wheel, what does everyone think of it and how it feels in fm6? Im considering getting it, but $900 is a big chunk of change. Mainly im looking for how the ffb feels while going straight (wheel centered) and how it feels drifting at or close to 900dor? During oversteer can you still feel what the front tires are doing or does it go numb (like pCars)? Ive been messing with fm4 with the csr (non elite) and its just an aweful experience, completely dead ffb in the first 30 or so degrees left or right. if i spin out and let go of the wheel when centered it doesnt move. Ever. And i know its not the csr because it feels amazing in assetto corsa on pc.

Fanatec and honestly Thrust TX are huge overkill for such developed force feedback. At current state of the game it’s just waste of equipment ;(
Plug it to PC and you’ll instantly notice what im talking about. Sorry to say that but you were asking :wink:

@stinger63, rule of thumb, its always better to set in game parameters, instead of messing with in wheel setup, just saying.

Rauf00, I have to disagree with you on the FFB settings in the game. There was a thread about it with Forza 5 and it went both ways. I however have had great success leaving the game at full and throttling down the wheel. The wheel can only react to what it is given and the game can only give what it is allowed. If you cut back the game to 50% no matter what you do you loose 50 percent of everything so the wheel is trying to read the signals that are now much weaker and harder to do accurately. If you let the game at full FFB the wheel gets all its info as it was intended and the you can back down your wheel as needed but it will have much more accurate info to go off of. Like I said there are arguments that really go both ways and support both ways but I have had much better luck leaving the game at full. There really is no right or wrong but what we like best and everyone is different. By all means do what works best for you but I just wanted to mention this.

If i sett ff on the Wheel to auto the ff is almost nothing.

By context ill assume you meant underdeveloped. Anyway, thats the answer i was expecting, i was just being optimistic.

My current V2 settings, everything feels pretty good to me. I had issues when I set the wheel force feedback to “AUTO” as well, it felt like there was no force feedback.

SEN 540
FFB 66
SHO 60
ABS 50
LIN 30
DEA off
DRI 003
BRF 100

In game settings:
Steering 0-100
Accel 1-100
Brake 1-100
Clutch 5-90

Vibration scale 60
Force feedback scale 100
Wheel rotation angle 540

I think your problem is the BRF setting. I think it has something to do with brake pressure on the load cell on the brake. Try 30 and see what happens. As others have posted you can try pushing the pedal to 100% first thing after starting up but Inthink that’s a Thrustmaster thing. I may be wrong though. I don’t do this, or at least not on purpose as sometimes my feet get antsy. LOL

I’ve tried BRF set at 30 and its really bad, they lock up instantly. At 100 they seem to at least allow enough travel to be drive-able. I know BRF stands for “Brake Force”, but with everything I experimented with I think it should really be called “Brake Force Required”. At 30 it doesn’t take much force to reach 100% brakes, whereas when I set it to 100 it requires a lot more force to reach full brakes. But like I said, even at a 100 I still lock everything up rather easily.

I’ll see what I can find about calibrating the pedals. I’m wondering if switching between a controller and the wheel while in the game is causing my issue. Like maybe I should be closing the game and re-launching it while the wheel is on.

Out of curiosity, is anyone having slight issues with always locking the brakes up? I have the V3 pedals and I always drive with no ABS, but it doesn’t take much force on the brake pedal to instantly lock up the tires. I found setting the “BRF” setting way higher helped a lot, but I’m at the max and I still lock up way to easily for my taste. I’m finding I need to adjust the brake force in the game for each car to a lower value as well, not a huge deal but unless you have race brakes installed you can’t really adjust that setting on all cars, gets kind of tricking in Rivals with spec cars.

Is there some sort of pedal calibration method I should be doing when I turn the wheel on? I really wish the game had a built in pedal calibration.