wheel works fine with the demo but the cars just skid all the time when I even think about hitting the breaks. Backedn always steps out. Latest firmware installed. I have to put tcs and stm to make it drive-able. Have the rotation at 360.
When I use the controller with same settings the cars work fine. Anybody else have this or can share some tips/settings?
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I’ve always had this issue with the TX and most standard cars in FM5 and now FM6. The only method I found last night to keep the cars driveable without assists was to use the Honda S2000 as the brake balance and power are tuneable. However, the Audi S3 in rivals isn’t too bad so it appears to just be certain vehicles for me.
Although this was frustrating, the basic and counter-intuitive FFB on the wheel was far worse. Absolutely no improvement over FM5 and extremely disappointing. Project CARS has shown what can be done on consoles and if Assetto Corsa can bring their PC FFB across then Turn 10 will have a fight on their hands!!
Here’s hoping that changes can be made before release or via a post-release patch…the game deserves it.
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Had the same issue with Forza 5 and ended up switching back to the controller, not tried my TX in the demo yet. Thing is I don’t get this issue in any other racing games.
Same issue for me, also using TX wheel, tried FM5 and was hoping they had changed the wheel feel for FM6, my wheel has 540 degrees of rotation and it is drivable but the cars are sliding like crazy compared to FM4 and the whole thing feels wrong. I have been using Fanatec wheel for FM2-4 and it was great but the feeling with the TX wheel is not good compared to previous experience.
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It’s not the wheel that’s the issue it’s the in-game FFB - I’ve used my TX on PC and console for Project CARS, Assetto Corsa, DiRT Rally, etc, etc and the TX is capable of FFB very close or equal to the best that Fanatec can deliver. I’ve owned many wheels over the years and (from my own experience and in my opinion) you can’t beat the TX pound-for-pound/dollar-for-dollar.
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Yes I know, that is also what i mean, on PC the TX wheel is very good. 
Oh no… this is a real shame. I have been seriously considering splashing out £500 for a full set up, with Pro Pedals, 6 SPD Shifter and GTE Wheel with the TX Body.
Should I hold off and not waste my money? It would have primarily been used for Forza 6 
I have a Fanatec set up for the Xbox One and really like it a lot. That does not mean what I like you will as well. It may be a good Idea to wait for the game yo come out and ask someone that you know has the game and you trust. So many people are just jumping on the band wagon to find faults and most of these people I have never saw on the forum before. Not sure how reliable they all are. Someone you trust will greatly reduce the misinformation thing. Good luck and if it were me I would say buy one but I tend to be a Forza fanboy.
I have been playing the FM6 demo with controller and just hooked up the TX wheel this morning. I was hot lapping Rio in the GT and noticed that the car was losing traction in the turns using the TX wheel versus the controller. One thing to try is setting the “sensitivity” of the wheel itself to a 4 (least sensitive). Do this by clicking mode + right shifter until you get 4 flashes of the green light. I drive with the braking line ON and you can see a big difference in speed going through the tunnel corner. I have to slow all the way down to the point that the yellow line disappears (mostly) to get the car through the tunnel without losing traction with the TX wheel. With the controller I can make it through the tunnel at almost full speed with a red/yellow line. I’ll keep tinkering with it and maybe do a few videos to compare.
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Yeah I had the same issue as well…kinda disappointing using tx wheel but felt better with controller (of course). Hope it it gets hashed out.
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540 degrees felt like it was too sensitive. I switched to 720 and it feels much better to me. Also I noticed it was very easy to lock the Audi up on braking so I set the inside dz to 5 and the outside to 100, so the brakes come on a little bit later in the pedal travel.
I was really tired last night but managed a 1:06.8xx before going to bed, which I feel is about where my skill level is in the other games.
On a side note it might be worthwhile to mention the upgraded firmware for the wheel (version 49) which came out two months ago. It is worth the five minutes of hooking your wheel up to your pc (don’t need the pedals) and updating it.
Also for those that might not know, the TX has an auto clutch feature which can press A every time you shift with the paddles. To enable it, hold mode and press A. The red light will steadily blink indicating that it is active. To disable press mode + A again or power off wheel. It is a lot better than trying to find the button to clutch on corner exit.
Dissapointing for the TX wheel: Cars are driving on ice. Weak FFB. No buy
With the little patch this morning intalled the wheel now no longer does anything in game!!!???
t.b.h. the TX wheel was crap with FM5 also. I love the wheel on the PC and with Project Cars on the X1.
@Turns, will try some of your settings (already have the latest Firmware) after I have re-downloaded the DEMO.
Well it’s only very slightly better than fm5…sad
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So disappointed to hear the wheel FFB has not been improved. I don’t have my TX to try the demo with so I can’t see how it compares to Forza 5. I was planning on getting the Logitech G920 but won’t be if the game is even worse with a wheel than Forza 5.
I know in Forza 5 I found most cars drove best at 540 or less degrees of rotation. 900 degrees was near impossible to catch slides or spins.
I’m wondering if Forza 6 maybe plays better at 900 degrees if it’s too sensitive at 540 or 360 degrees? Has anyone tried 900 degrees out on a TX to see what it is like?
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I was watching this in preparation to buy the TX body… can anyone confirm whether or not the settings/setup he uses is good or bad? He basically recommends 330 degrees.
@ sunkworks16…Same as forza 5 without the wobble on slight turns… default is 540 in the demo and it’s drivable but the wheel was clearly YET AGAIN an after thought
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Wheel support, car behaviour, tyre behaviour, and progressiveness of braking in the demo are all big disappointments, and are apparently unchanged from FM5. That’s all I’ll say rather than repeating the comments above. Sebring in the rain has a nice look about it. Unless the full version is notably better than this it looks as though only the race cars will be worth driving/driveable though. The road cars all appear to have 10% of their real world mass, again. I can’t believe the game developers didn’t feel the need to work on improving the driving experience in what is supposed to be a driving game. SMH
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I played yesterday and it felt ok to me. I’m not a super simmer by any means so maybe I just can’t tell the difference. I haven’t updated my wheel since I bought it last year. Maybe it’s a firmware problem?
I typically use 540 DOR with road cars. But went to 720 on S3 and helped.
Also, you wouldn’t think the 95-100 braking would be much different but it makes a big difference. Set brake dead zone to 0 and top out to 100. Same with acc.