Hey I am learning to tune and since starting a few weeks ago I have been lead to believe several things that just are not true. And also have tried several methods for things that have just slowed me down.
Does this make sense?
“the ‘Ideal’ camber for a tyre that travels in an exacting vertical motion would be 0.0 so that ALL the tread is touching the tarmack, that said…”
What they are saying is at 0 degrees camber the tire is FLAT on the road. I have heard this several times recently from people giving advise to others. To me it does not make sense. If the car is sitting perfectly flat, on a perfectly flat track, with 0 camber then I can see that being true. But camber angle is the angle of the tire top to bottom in relationship to the car. Not the road. For example, if you turn the car on its roof the camber telemetry would not go to 180 degrees right?!
My understanding is if you have some negative camber, go into a turn, the body rolls toward the outside, the suspension compresses somewhat. The car is leaning. So since the tire is leaning in a couple degrees (tire roll too? Havent had anybody confirm that part) it will have a better contact patch to the road.
If camber, while turning, went to 0 exactly and there is ANY body roll the the tire would be leaning on its outside edge correct? If the body is rolling a degree or two, then you would want your camber to accommodate that with some negative angle correct?
Sorry to be long winded but Im trying to make sure I get this right.
Also, if somebody has some guidelines that work on figuring camber angle that would be great. I currently do it by feel.
having 0 camber is a bad idea take a look at all the open source tunes that are posted here all of them are running between -2.0 to -3.0 on front and rear i personally haven’t figured out why its soo different from some of the real world cars but this is a game and the above settings do work
thank you for the response. I totally agree that having 0 camber is a bad idea. Negative camber is the key to keeping your outside tires planted in corners. What I am saying is that some people are telling me to tune the camber so that while you are in mid corner your Telemetry Shows the camber angle is at 0. They are saying that if your telemetry is showing 0 mid corner then your tire is completely flat against the ground. This doesn’t make sense to me because the camber angle is based on the tires geometry with the car and not the ground. Therefore if the car is tilted while in mid corner and the telemetry is showing 0 then it doesn’t make sense to me that the tire is flat on the ground.
I think what there saying is you static camber should -1.0 to -3.0 and your peak dynamic camber(compressed wheel travel) should be close to zero without going positive.
The temp. tells you a lot, a hot tire should be somewhere between even temps across the tread, or the inner up to 10 degrees hotter. Camber between -.5 to -3.5 can produce these temps.
I’ve been reverse engineering a lot of shared tunes lately and the fast elite guys are running near default camber on front, -.5 to -1.0 and -2.5 to -3.5 on the rear.
FOOT are you saying this in regards to the 3 or 4 you listed from Worm? Or are you finding this is true for many you have checked?
Im new to tuning still. My cars are usually somewhere from 2.5 to 4.5 front and between 2 and 3.5 rear. That seems to be what works for me. I am just now decoding how to use Damping to my advantage so maybe these with change. But are these common “effective” camber angles other people are finding as well?
P.S. I am ALWAYS referring to front engine RWD cars.
EMW Simmo, TG Takumi, TN Eagle all seem to follow this trend. Of course there are exceptions, Roadrunner is obviously marching to his own drummer which is great, at least it’s open source.
Yeah I would love to see more open source stuff. It would be great to test and bounce ideas in these threads more.
Thank you for sharing all that. Must have been quite a bit of testing. Did you work out any caster numbers on those tests? I wonder if they are running very high caster to make up for what seems like a lack of camber. And also wondering if they run “looser” rears and therefore have some extra negative camber in the rear.
I, like a lot of people, figured out you could use very high camber settings in this game, which was not the practice in previous Forzas. I just assumed (perhaps a mistake) that more front camber than rear was the way to go. Therefore it surprised me to see so many very good tunes using default or near default camber on the front. I haven’t done enough comparative testing to determine which one I prefer.
BTW, if anybody needs to confirm my claims, they can do so by checking the telemetry while the car is parked on the track.
Now, if you would like me to infer some conclusions about damper settings there is a series of bumps in the breaking zone on the backstraight at Bugatti, the way the car behaves there can tell you ALOT!
Thanks Claret. Im a member at the PTG site. Great stuff there! Ill check out Bam as well. The way things have been on here lately “a bit friendlier” may hit the spot.
My tunes are as fake as my times on the leaderboard or your telemetry reading skills aren’t up to scratch. You are so far off it’s unreal. Takumi is running camber the same I am, so is nearly everyone on my friend list you would consider “elite”. As I did the S2000 with Zermatt and Chemical that is about as “elite” as you can find. I do believe I’ve read out settings in front of Clay and Eagle in parties for things and we’ve all been running ridiculously high camber for some time. They could have changed by now…I for sure have not.
That will be the only time I’ll open source a thing on this forum. I’m not posting my CRX so someone can copy it. I don’t remember the Miata off hand and it was before the tuning thing was built on the teams website but I’m 100% sure the camber is over -2.5 on both.
