Camber and tire temps

I’m trying to learn to tune in Forza Horizon 5 and I’ve been watching and following following HokiHoshi’s tuning guide to get an understanding of tuning basics.

From what I’ve learned, when going around corners, you don’t want the camber of the outside tire to go into positive (which I watch with the telemetry). But you also don’t want the temperature difference between the inside and the outside of the tire to be much more than 10 degrees. The problem is, I’m having trouble doing this on most of my builds, particularly with the rear tires. Whenever I get the camber right, the inside of the tire is generally 30-45 degrees hotter than the outside. (It goes down to a 5-15 degree difference if I’ve been doing a lot of cornering.) Any tips/advice? Might I be doing something wrong?

It’s a matter of finding the sweet spot on both camber and psi.

Try lowering the camber on the rear by 0.2 and recheck, if still to hot lower again by 0.2. If it effects the positive camber then add 0.1 and re-check. If that’s working for camber but not tyres. Then adjust the PSI on rear tyres by minus 0.2 and re-check. If it’s still to hot then start doing it by 0.1 until you reach the sweet spot.

Remember/Tip: Hot air increases PSI as the air inside the tyre expands.

The thing more important than all this though: Is ‘YOUR’ driving style, if it feels right for you (even if it’s not 100% like the video you watched then STOP at that point).

I agree with the post above. It’s the reason why I never advertise or suggest my own builds. I share them, and hey, if people want to download them, that’s great, but I would never ever suggest you use one of my tunes. Youtube videos and forum suggestions are a great way to send you on the right path, but at the end of the day you have to build the cars to you, which takes a combination of knowledge, experience, improvisation and self-reflection.

That last point is especially important, particularly in the chaotic, rough and tumble nature of the Forza Horizon series. That’s another reason why I never suggest my tunes to other players. I’m very much an “adjust the driver to the car” type driver. That allows me to lean into a car’s particular strengths and adapt to it’s weaknesses, which makes my builds powerful in my hands, but highly inconsistent to the outside observer. Meanwhile, one of my friends is very much an “adapt the car to the driver” style of driver and tuner. Our tunes are competitive with each other in our own hands, but we swaps cars/tunes, and it’s nothing but constant moaning about how bad the other’s car is.

Knowing the kind of driver you are, knowing the areas where you’ll adapt and where you’ll be rigid, that’s what will really push you into the advanced levels of tuning. Don’t follow youtube videos exactly. Once you’ve learned the fundamentals of both racing and tuning, it’s tune your own tune and race your own race.

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What is the ideal pressure you are looking for when road racing once the tires are hot?

Camber going positive under compression is an issue of MacPherson struts. Double wishbone suspensions don’t have this issue, which is why they are used in race cars. The best way to address this is by increasing caster and making the front sway bar very stiff. That way the suspension can’t compress to begin with, thus reducing the effect of the bad camber curve.

I recommend going with what works. It’s Horizon, where people don’t race with tire wear. In FH5, any temp above 90 Celsius is yellow, and you’ll get there very often.

Lots of people are still sticking to AWD, very soft front ARB, max accel diff lock and a damper setup you’d normally find on rally cars (very soft bump compared to rebound, and soft overall), but with minimum ride height. It works, so all power to them. But it’s more a case of exploiting a flaw in the physics than tuning incorrectly.

Worth mentioning that most people also go with the narrowest front tires and add front downforce. When you think of load over the tire, you’d fry your tires with the heat such setup would generate. Alas, no tires blow up, no tire degradation exists in competitive racing, and probably not even the grip loss from overheated tires is that significant, so they keep doing it and winning with it.

http://web.archive.org/web/20130312174826/http://forums.forza.net/forums/thread/4869639.aspx

This is pretty old school, but it still works and can be applied to the modern area of the games. The user broke down a lot of aspects, but the tuning is geared more for drifting, the knowledge is sound.

I have also noticed I have to wait longer for corners than in FH4.

5-15 degrees during cornering–sounds about like “not more than 10 degrees difference”… :wink:

But really, I try to keep my average temps between corners even across the tire. That worked well for me in LFS too, even though others were using many degrees of camber and always overheating the inside of their tires.

They need to replace the assist forces with intelligent predictive steering, perhaps leaving a touch of force at high angles to save spins, otherwise, free the physics… And these things won’t happen.