Camber & Tire Temp/Pressure

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CAMBER & TIRE TEMPs

I understand that when looking at the telemetry in regards to checking camber you need to check the temp on 3 areas of the tire… inner, middle, & outer tire temps. I also know that the inner temp should always be higher than the outer… but there shouldn’t be too much of a difference between the 2… basically no more than a 15 degree difference.

I’ve noticed that the inner, middle, & outer tire temps are stay the same or only a degree or 2 between the 3… regardless of camber settings. My camber settings range between 1.7 & 2.5 on the front & 1.7 to 2.0 on the rear… they all show inner, middle, & outer tire temps at/or about the same level.

What’s the deal… is this normal? Is it a good thing? If the temps are the same, regardless of camber settings, should I use the lower camber setting or a higher setting? If I’m not mistaken, you can tell if you have too much camber, regardless of telemetry readings, if the car is “twitchy” when you turn the wheel…correct?

What is your folk’s… for lack of a better word… GOLDEN RULE in regards to camber settings when you first build a setup/tune?

TIRE PRESSURE

What temp range do you find to be the best? I usually start out at 28.5lbs front & back for cold tire pressure…which gives me a hot tire pressure of about 33 to 33.5lbs. From my understanding, this is a good tire pressure & good tire pressure range is between 32lbs to 35lbs (hot tire temp).

As above… what is your GOLDEN RULE for cold tire pressure when 1st building a tune & what hot tire pressure do you look to achieve?

What symptoms of car handling lets you know that you need to adjust tire pressure up or down? I know that if tire temps are too high or low that you utilize tire pressure adjustments to fix the issue by adding pressure to cool the tire off & lowering the pressure to warm the tire up… but that’s the only reasons I know to make tire pressure adjustments.

I know that I’m asking A LOT of questions… but I want to learn & it also may help other tuners that are out there as well.

Thanks in advance for any & all guidance!

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One of the best write-up’s that I have seen on this topic was on FM5…search GRD’s (GT = GRD 4 3L) posts/thread on the Tuners section. You might consider checking it out.

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Thanks PRKid… going to go check it out now!

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I don’t know if FM5 is a good reference since it had the “Magic Camber”. Dial any car up to -.3 or greater and gain a second or two a lap. It seems much less critical in FM6, I usually just add +1 to the default setting and forget about it.
For psi I aim for 32 - 32.5 hot.

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Good point FOOT, yet, I was thinking more about the process per se – and not the settings per game changes – on evaluating such with the telemetry data feedback, which GRD wrote some cool posts about such and where/how to test.

PRKid
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Depending on the car/class/track, I will run TPs anywhere from 31.5 to 33.5. 33.7 at the most!

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Those pressures, the ones you listed above, are pressures of a warm tire… correct?

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Correct, after several laps. So, work backwards, depending on car for actual TP settings. I usually take it out (after build is DONE, and tune is pretty much there) for several laps and check telemetry, re-set the TP’s based on the that, then, re-test a final time.

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Just browsing through and noticed this thread . . .

Tire pressure, seems to work best 32~35psi warm for me so I just target about 33psi warm. This equates to 28~30 psi cold. Light cars can take lower psi, heavy cars benefit from higher psi for stability.

Tire temperature in FM, in my opinion, is not realistic because no matter what tire pressure you use, the temperature ALWAYS seem to stabilize. The temperature seems to increase TOO QUICKLY, especially for stock tires. Tires do not blow in FM (yet) hence tire reliability is of no concern = having a high camber or overall high temperature is of no large consequence. Only time I see very high temperature (makes tires more slippery) is when the car is being overdriven, caused by wheel lock-ups or wheel spins.

Cambers really come down to personal preference. Front wheels always need some camber for cornering no matter the type of drivetrain. For RWD, use whatever camber that suits you. My default is -1.7 then I increase/decrease to fine tune. For FWD, the front wheels also need to provide propulsion therefore the camber has to have a balance of straight line (power on) traction vs. cornering traction + combination of both. For lower hp car, my approach is to cater the camber (higher) for cornering. For higher hp car, cater the camber (lower) for acceleration. To put it shortly, for more cornering grip, more -ve camber. For better exit acceleration, less -ve camber.

That is, keeping all other factors (ARB, diff, springs, dampers, gears, etc.) the same.

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I find the tyre Temps to be off in this version of forza. They seem very unpredictable and your adjustments seem to make little or no difference. Best car I have driven had 180 degrees across the tyre but was running 34 degrees hot. It didn’t make sense.

I still find the telemetry really useful though but not for tyres anymore.

I get mesmerised with the suspension travel and offset. I think the G meter and the hp/torque at certain rpms is the most useful telemetry to me. G meter the most, it’s good to know the tyre has been overloaded and you have pushed it to hard or transferred to much weight on it. Vice versa, knowing your not getting the most from it also.