How’s everyone getting on with Forza 6? I love it! Especially the GT cars. I’m fully besotted with the C7R at the moment which is why I’m here … I’m struggling to get to grips with the tyre indicators.
Is it when the tyre goes ‘clear’ I.e the phase after blue when the tyres are at Optimum temperature?
I’ve recently been trying my hand at the enduros and I’m struggling to get the right pressure. I’ve found so far that by dropping the pressure from 30 psi to 28 psi seems to yield some better traction but I really struggle since Forza dropped the ‘green’ optimum colour like they did in Forza 4.
Has anyone found this? Can anyone offer any help or advice?
BLUE = Cold
CLEAR = Good Temp
YELLOW = HOT
RED = BYE BYE
Also finding that there is no strong correlation between pressures and temperatures. Tire pressure seem to control the tire behaviour/rigidity where temperature is the RESULT of how you drive/use the tires.
33psi WARM seems to be the magic sweet spot. 32psi if you want little more compliance and 34psi if you like it a little firm.
Thank you so much for your reply! I really can’t tell you how much I appreciate it.
It’s funny at the moment that I seem to find that grip appears to be at it’s optimum when the tyres are blue (fresh) - when I’ve been lapping sonoma on the community challenge, whenever I go into the pits for fresh rubber I always seem to be able to get better traction from the fresh tyres and always post a better time.
As soon as the blue goes I seem to slide and loose more traction.
Also from a personal point of view, I’ve spent some time over the past 4 years with a V8 GT racing team and a F3 Cup team - both of which set tyres to 18-20 psi cold so that as the tyres warm up, the temperature increases to around 28 psi which is their sweet spot in race conditions.
I’m not sure if my linking actual experiences when it comes to the finer details of set-up are going to be like-for-like when it comes to Forza racing
28psi WARM is a little low to ensure optimal compliance and grip…like GRD noted, optimal range is around 32-33 psi warm…I usually strive for right in between (32.4 // 32.5), seems to yield a good result overall between grip and responsiveness.
If you are getting the best results with blue tyres i would imagine your pressures are too high and the temps are higher than they should be once the tyre is warm this is why you are getting optimal grip when cold and a loss of grip once the tyres are up to temp.
I’ve noticed that when I’m driving '67 F1s that it feels great in first couple of laps but the feel/traction degrades as tires warm up.
These vintage tires also stabilize at about 170°F instead of usual 200~210°F.
I’m trying to determine if these vintage tires run better at lower pressures so I’ve been testing them at about 26~27 psi cold or about 30~31 psi warm.
So far, I can’t tell the difference . . . maybe my senses are getting dull . . .
We know FM /= RL . . . especially when it comes down to fine details.
The wheels have a very wide “zone” where the effects on tire temperature is not noticeable on the straights. It may be more noticeable during cornering but this is difficult to assess while driving/racing/testing.
I tried re-evaluating stock Lotus 49 tire pressures last night.
Testing at Monza Old(?) = without front chicane
Lotus 49’s stock tire’s stabilize at about 170°F.
At 26 psi cold (targeting about 30 psi warm), the car felt little wobbly in heavy acceleration and in corners. Best lap of 1:40.5.
At 28 psi cold (targeting the usual 32~33 psi warm), the car felt more stable so I was able to push with confidence. Best lap of 1:40.0 almost immediately.
Conclusion: No matter which tire you use, 33±2 psi (warm) appears to be the sweet spot.
Yes, yes, and… YES But I have to admit I haven’t given over 33 psi (warm) much of a chance yet.
I have been having decent results using pause and slow motion on the replay while cycling through the telemetry. At the instant of Max Lateral g, 0.00 camber, and perfectly even temperatures across the tire is working for me. It changes based on driving technique and corner so you do have to just pick something at the end of the day. Seems to quiet the tires down and lessen the force feedback on the TX wheel.
My theory is that the grip model needs the angle of tire relative to the racing surface and that is what telemetry is displaying, not camber relative to the chassis. It goes to zero the instant a tire comes off the ground not the value it was previously with 99.9% of suspension extension. Drive (crash) on and off the banking at Daytona with the right side suspension fully compressed and the angle changes. I may need to go roll a few Cherokees to investigate further :D.
Crash
Now that’s starting to get a little off topic from the OP - Camber thread hear we come LOL
Better handling on cold tires sounds like too much pressure, or one end building pressure faster creating a difference front to rear that goes away once everything stabilizes.
Not so sure Crash. I had the same question…Re: camber readings in telemetry relative to the road, or to the chassis? It seems the readings are relative to the chassis…because when I am in any cornering application (solid state or otherwise), my camber settings become further negative. I run a reasonable amount of front camber on most of my tunes (+/- -2 deg.), and I also run fairly high caster (6.0 +).
Given the readings I am seeing become increasingly negative in relation to the default (ex: -2 deg. goes to -2.9 deg.) - it would suggest car-relative readings…there is no way the tires are becoming more negative in relation to the road under load in a corner (my car isn’t sprung tightly enough to have that impact!).
You have to tune camber and tire temps based on lap time and tire squeel, you should be able to tell when you hear the car hitting the right slip angle vs when it is actually sliding.
Although I am not 100% sure (on one will unless they have the actual code in hand) I am going to guess that the camber is the deviation from perpendicular plane wrt the road surface, i.e. regardless of the chassis roll/angle.
Unlikely, because then what if the road surface is not flat (camber & off camber turns etc.).
That is a lot of computations in code-speak…measuring camber in relation to a non-perpendicular and varied road surface etc.
I believe the change in camber when viewing telemetry is like I said - relative to the wheel hub or axle. It has to be measured against a ‘constant’, and the road surface is a not a constant, whereas the car is - regardless of the road it is on (meaning the angle of the wheel to the chassis is quantifiable as they move in relation to one another).
Isn’t that how camber is measured irl? I don’t see any reason for it to be different in the game unless it is too intensive computationally.
If that is too extreme to code/calculate due to hardware limitations then you counter it by putting an imaginary plane through the centre of the car and use that as your reference. It would give you the same angles.
Right, the lower wheels (front and rear that are closer to the inside of the track), are bearing more weight because of the pitch of the track. Said weight increase across these wheels creates more suspension compression = greater camber relative to the axle.
Caster in this instance has zero impact, as the wheels are not turned.
