Hey guys,
So I’ve been playing around a bit lately in the league (showroom rally), and I’m consistently podium-finishing with the Renault Alpine that I built and tuned. However, I cannot keep up with the pack in any of the AWD options. I know it’s possible, because I’ve had many races where guys in Evos and Subies are right up front. As far as building the car goes, can anyone offer any help?
Awd cars are grippy enough that you can manage more power.
Build your cars with more power, less grip and adjust the diif’s to act like a rwd.
Edit : some cars do not benefit from a drive conversion
Also note that TCS bogs down AWD cars pretty bad. It’s useful if not necessary on (higher powered) RWD cars but in this game it’s a little too invasive and cuts into your power too much on AWD cars. Most folks will run faster times with it off. It takes a more throttle discipline but the extra grip of AWD makes it easier to run without it.
Good info, which is why I refrain from traction and stability control. I also use manual w/ clutch and ABS off to try to keep myself as competitive as possible. I did get the Peugot 205 turbo to run fast lap times with AWD intact, but the subarus and evos I was seconds off the pace. It doesn’t matter now, but still curious how some of those guys managed it.
I tuned Lancia Delta that was killing the League that week. It was the only AWD car I have ever gotten to to compete as of yet. I don’t know what the difference is/was as it is for sure, an anomaly.
The problem with AWD cars in Forza is they do not rotate aswell into corners compared to FWD & RWD cars.
I always use the same base settings below for all my AWD tunes, and then make adjustments depending on how the car behaves.
OP try these settings:
Front Diff = 100% Front/0% Rear
Rear Diff = 100% Front/0% Rear
Diff Balance = Keep Stock
Front Aero = Maximum (Usually 100)
Rear Aero = Minimun (Usually 75)
Front ARBs = 10.00
Rear ARBs = Keep Stock
These are good base settings, but you want to make adjustments after testing the tune.
If the car is not turning in sharp enough on corner entry increase the Rear ARB’s by 5.0 increments.
If the car is turning in too sharp on corner entry increase the front ARB’s by 5.0 increments.
If the car is losing traction in the rear end increase Rear Aero by 20 increments.
Test these settings out see if you see an improvement on laptimes.
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These Diff setting really work, they are “indirectly simulating” a RWD car, I have even gone as far as using 100/0, 100/0, 100 which works well in many instances depending on car/class. I have also used the ARBs up to 1/40 to get the proper rotation.
PRKid
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High acceleration on the front differential and rear differential helps massively. The diff makes a huge difference in AWD tunes.
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Thanks for all the input guys, I’d been trying to use a 40/10, 60/20, 65% diff tune (same place I start with my FWD and RWD cars) with no success. I’ll try increasing the accel settings and see if that helps. Seriously thanks so much 
I can noticed that with AWD in FM7 the hight the class the better. S and R AWD are better. Also AWD are better with more power.
My diff settings are
Front Diff = 95% Front/7% Rear
Rear Diff = 90% Front/10% Rear
Diff Balance =69%
Try and keep the front and rear tyer widths the same width.
One reason I would disagree with keeping the front and rear tire widths the same is due to PI. Front tire width takes up a lot of PI and max rear tire width can actually reduce PI which could be quite helpful.
Double Post… Sorry…
I struggle with understeer on Nissans. The 2017 GTR being the exception. The long wheelbase seems to scrub the front wheels out, it feels too rigid. I found that removing the roll cage cured it with my R32 Skyline, but there’s a whole bunch I just can’t get right. The best AWD cars in my opinion ar e the good old Evo VI and the Ford RS200. They generate attitude and I go fast and look good in those. The Evo is that good it feels amazing stock.