I have been playing Forza from 2 thru Horizon. I am an average level tuner. I am a 1% LB hot lapper. I race primarily class C,B,A,S. I am an clean as possible driver. I have been running assists ABS TCS STM primarily because this is what I got used to. I dont have hours at my disposal at any one gaming time so this the reason for the post. Most of my tunes / cars are tuned in the class they are in from the dealer and I am working with Ford / Mercedes / Lamborghini / Subaru at the moment.
I was racing a private lobby with a friend the other night and he egged me to turn off my assists because this is how he raced and I obliged but I knew the result. He killed me every lap. When I turned them back on (at his approval) we were having good races - about 50% he wins, 50% I win both with effort involved (no give aways).
I have decided to turn off assists to try to increase my skill level and maybe some better LB times.
Questions:
If I turn off assissts, is it best to start with one (say ABS) and learn it before tackling the next one?
With ABS off, can the “lock up” be reduced by turning down the brake pressure?
Is there an area of the game that doesnt sync my drivitar? (Does it sync in free play? Does it sync when test driving?)
Is there any area of tuning I should focus on first that will help with this new adventure?
I realize that my driving style, preferences are always different and some cars are better than others and there are allot of variables here. Any advice is appreciated.
Thank you
I’d start by turning of STM and TCS first. ABS has always been the hardest for me to drop. Yes lowering brake pressure can help, but then you have less brake power.
I don’t think your drivatar sync’s in testing. So you can test without it having an effect.
It might be good to play with your suspension and tyre pressures, as well as brakes, and 2-way diff if installed. All of those things can help your car feel more planted and less likely to spin out or lock up the wheels.
For example if the rear of the car is sliding out, try lowering your rear spring rate. If that makes it worse, then stiffen it up. Different people play better with different tunes, so it’s trial and error, to find whether you suit soft or hard suspension, maybe you like aero on it, maybe you don’t. Those kind of things. I tend to set my diff at 60 acceleration, 40 deceleration, and if AWD, then 55% rear bias.
Same with brakes, if you want to try lowering the pressure, try 90%, and put your brake bias slightly to the front.
Also, this is very important, go into your profile, and controller settings, and set your deadzones for acceleration and braking to 0/100. The deadzones are set quite high, and this reduces sensitivity in the controller, making your braking control harder. Setting them as above will give you more range, which will help you not lock up so much.
Thanx allot. I have been using the differential and it has helped me allot. My accell is typically 60-68% but my decel was around 5%. I will change that setting and see what that gets me, maybe that was part of my problem. I saw your post a while back on the dead zones, I havent set them yet, this new path is a reason to do so.
I really appreciate the feedback, got some testing to do. Will post some results here when I get some testing time in and when I find my tuning / skill has improved.
Thank you again.
to turn off ABS set brake pressure to around 65-70% for most cars, adjust bias based on testing. Just take it up to 100mph or so, slam LT and look from the side to see which wheels are locking up. Both front and rear should lock at full pull. You won’t lose break power as long as you can still lock the wheels at full pull. STM is easy to do without, TCS is easy to turn off in classes up to A or even S but with a controller I find it hard not to use it on S and up. Turn off the drive line once you learn the tracks. I still can’t use the clutch, just manual. Good luck with that one.
This might be your driving style. But from both experience and videos/guides I’ve seen/read, most say to put your brake pressure at 120% and see how that is. Depending on the car and track, you usually end up between 120 and 140 percent.
Maybe that’ll work with a pedal but that setting on a controller with upgraded brakes will cause immediate lockup of all 4 wheels at the slightest touch of LT.
Agree with both. Still trying to get a feel for the braking without ABS in this game. I run my brakes around 105-110% usually. It can lead to lockin of the brakes if you are not careful. But once you are used to the car you are driving you should be able to get the hang of it.
As for OP I always thought TCS off was the hardest to get used too. I taught myself how on the Mercedes SLR on Forza 4. Once you get a feel for it you will never wanna go back…unless you are driving the F1 car. I think I might try driving it with TCS on soon.
I have run manual (no clutch) since FM3, I cant get the hang of the clutch on the controller. I will also check out you links for the tuning guides. I absorb info so the more to read and try, the closer I will get to where I want to be.
Kind of new to posting in the forums but it has been a great resource and hopefully as I get some of this incorporated into my “A game” lol, I will be able to donate info back to the community.
1 - First I’d move to driving manual if you don’t already. Then manual with clutch. Then turn ABS off. Then turn Stability off. Traction depends on the car you’re racing and how good you are. If you’re racing an S-class beast, having TCS on might actually make you a bit faster. Keep steering on Normal (simulation is for wheels).
Keep in mind, turning off ABS changes how you drive. You need to slowly apply pressure to the brakes and make sure you’re slowed enough before turning into the curve.
3 - You’re syncing anytime you’re in a competitive environment. So in rivals, multiplayer, career, free mode. If you’re test driving a tune I don’t believe its syncing (because that would be silly).
4 - Check out the Driver Resources page I have up for the RFRA. It’s got links to a few tuning guides that should get your started: http://blygilmore.com/rfra/driver-resources/
I’d say throw off ABS and STM right now and go from there. With TCS on in the higher classes (I’d say A and above) the cars will put up better lap times for the most part unless AWD. After you’ve got those two down though, then you can start playing with TCS off.
Yes, the lower the pressure the lower the chance of locking up. I run a pretty high brake pressure personally, I just find it suits me more and I’m able to find the threshold easier every time, practice with the brake pressure one day and figure out which pressure suits you best.
I don’t think it syncs from test drive, I’d say that’s the only spot though.
If you’re having troubles with spinning your tires, the most you can do is get more used to having good throttle control, other than that tuning won’t do too much, maybe play with your suspension to make it squat a bit more out of corners for some more traction, or play with diff settings to not let it slide as easy.
So… update already! Deadzones fixed, and I am now STM off (realize now, that was never needed with my driving abilities. lol) ABS is close, still tweaking 2 cars to understand my preferences / settings.
I ran across TG Wormburners very detailed thread in the tuners lounge. If any other tuners read this, I suggest looking through that guide, it is a good place to get information and a good starting place. Going to dig deep and see what I come up with on AMG Mercedes in B class.