You quoted me but I guess you didn’t comprehend it?
I updated drivers. Yes it does help when you’re on xbox.
The tinkering is with wheel settings and car tunes once you’re back in the game.
I was tearing my hair out… a very unpleasent experience (last time I played a Forza was the original Horizon, with a Thurstmaster wheel, the one with a bungy cord in it and it was very pleasureable, I wanted more of the same). Swearing at my TV with frustration, something I never do… racing against identical cars and yet they were able to keep the line even when going quite slow… I knew something had to be wrong, this is supposed to be an accessible game!
Last chance before going back to the controller, and I read all about the firmware update on this page. I thought “No, I only bought mine 3 months ago, in advance, specifically for Forza 4”. They are right though… I plugged it into the PC and yes, it was a firmware pre the latest 2016 version! I upgrade it… and boom! It’s really good now. When I go into a spin I know now what does it… too much power, too much turning, I can flick out of small oversteers etc, and in my 2nd race (S1 class so fairly quick) I came 1st instead of 12th! Also now when I start the game the game itself calibrated the wheel so I knew straight away there had been a difference. Perhaps there has been a fix in the game as well over the last couple of weeks to couple with this, but I can tell you as a fact on Saturday 13th with the firmware upgrade, all is good!
As it happens I dismantled the pedals to remove the rubber bung in the brake… so I do not know if the deadzone stuff is affected by this (I find the spring quite strong enough, crikey, I owned a Mark I Fiesta with brakes that had no servo assistance, I know all about stiff brakes and this was far, far worse! Granted though if the dead zone works propely to calibrate the end of the brake just into the rubber bung it would make it like the real deal. Anyway, besides the point.
I’ll probably end up tuning it a little bit to suit my style but right now, it’s handling pretty well from the default and I am so, so happy that I found this and gave it a go.
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^ this.
And I turn up brake pressure on my tunes. Usually to 125%, with ABS turned off. And other assists off. Also, turning off simulation steering makes it less twitchy.
If you have a G920 then honestly try these settings for 900 degrees, I was using the 0-20 steering dead zones for a while but after hours/days of fiddling use 85-100 instead, the difference is night and day 
Note I’m using mine on the Xbox one x but could be beneficial for PC users, I’m no longer having to switch to a controller for the dirt racing or drift club storyline, also the steering angle input is quite accurate using sim steering! Throttle dead zones were a huge help for not spinning out too All settings I’m using now:
Steering Axis Deadzone Inside: 85
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Steering Linearity: 50
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 20
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 20 (brake rubber removed)
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside: 100 (makes no difference)
E-Brake: 0-100
Vibration Scale: 0
Force Feedback Scale: 75 for drifting, 100 for everything else
Centre Spring Scale: 100
Wheel Damper Scale: 5
Force Feedback Understeer: 0
Force Feedback Minimum Force: 0
Wheel Rotation: 900
Let me know if it helps anyone else!
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Thanks this has made a massive difference
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The deadzones do seem to be malfunctioning somehow. I’m just here to provide some additional information.
I have a g920 that I use fine in every other sim game I have (PC and XBOX.) I am very familiar with fiddling with various settings to get a wheel to feel how I want it to. I just checked my drivers again today to make sure I am up to date (which I already was.)
My experience currently is that the brake deadzones do not actually change the output relative to my inputs. No matter how much I lower the outside brake deadzone, I can only get the actual brake percentage to about 90. That’s like bending my rig levels of smashing the brake pedal, even at 20 outside deadzone.
Also, the inside deadzone seems like it is set at a weird level in comparison to other Forza games. I usually make it to about 15% brake output when I hit the rubber block in my brake pedal, but in this game I make it to about 5%. This is when the inside deadzone is at 1.
There are definitely ways to work around this with tuning, but it is a bit disappointing that people are in here pointing the finger at one another as if there’s no technical issue.
Aside from this though, I’m really liking the game so far.
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Very much this, its distressing that some people seem to think everything is alright with the dead zones only because they have removed the rubber in the brake. The dead zones are broken, maybe not for everyone (even though i doubt it) but for many of us. I dont see the point in trying to contradict that. Most of us have the latest firmware/ driver for the wheel and have been working with settings in the wheel software/ advanced ingame settings/ tuning since early release without being able to use the brake, or clutch (and probably steering as well…) properly. The g920 hardware config of the brake give slightly different preassure results, if i hammer the brake i get around 30%, its impossible to use without being able to change the dead zone, no matter the tune.
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Completely agree, tweaking the settings is just trying to mask the faults. I still have an open ticket for the broken deadzones and clutch grinding noise which has been there since the demo release. Hopefully a patch will be released soon to sort out the problems
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Just borrowed my GFs account with game pass. There is no change at all, i still slide all over the place
First…sorry for my bad english…
For me, if the graphics at “quality”, i can’t handle the car. I turn my steering wheel, and the car’s wheel turns almost a second later.
But if the graphics at “performance”, i have no problem with the steering…
Let’s make no mistake. Deadzones are broken with a Logitech G920 wheel.
If the deadzones are working for anyone, can you please post a screenshot showing that your accelerator is going past 95%. Turn telemetry on and show me what settings you have.
Come on guys, go to any other game, Assetto Corsa, iRacing, FH3 and FM7 even, they all work fine.
This one in FH4 is broken.
I read somewhere in another thread there’s a hack to do with editing a file to change the zones, will try that, if indeed the only problem is that the game just doesn’t save them properly.
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Screenshot throttle and braking
As requested, screenshots to show that I get 100 % input values for throttle and brake with normal deadzone settings.
I can’t get the deadzone setting for brakes (at least) to work at all though, but I don’t need it either luckily.
Edit: switched image host from onedrive to dropbox
Thank you for that.
From what I see, you definitely have a modified G920 which also appears to give 100% reading of the throttle when the pedal is fully pressed. Mine doesn’t, probably because it is newer and either a) Logitech changed that or b) I haven’t mashed the accelerator pedal hard enough to bend the plastic and get 100% reading from it.
Ultimately, a modified G920 is not what I want for countless other games, especially iRacing and Assetto Corsa, therefore I’ll live with using the Controller for now.
Your brake is modified right? I.e. rubber removed.
I have not modified it, but I bought it second hand three years ago so who knows.
Alright, new g920s have a hardware modification that adds to the brake stiffness (a small piece of rubber inside the spring). When you hammer the brake to the point of bending the metal you might get somehere between 30%-60%. This can be solved by adjusting deadzones, and then it works perfectly, except in horizon 4 where the deadzones are broken and have no effect.
There are also people who remove the rubber inside the spring and get a much higher brake reading without working the deadzones. But since logitech have programmed the brake with the rubber mod in mind, its preset with a very steep brake curve. Meaning if you have it removed you have full travel (not intended; a ”real” car with a full travel brake pedal is missing brake fluids, or worse) and a very unreliable brake curve. Maybe its possible to counter that with deadzones…
I hope they fix this with the next patch, lot of people went and bought a g920 for this game. And are currently playing on a controller. Its a really bad look to say the wheel is supported when its obviously not. These same problems have been posted in countless of threads, not only here. And ofcourse to support. Yet they dont even post it as a known issue.
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Hi,
Just to add some weight to the conversation:
I also use the G920, it works great with FH3 and FM7, but is unusable with FH4. I have in fact reverted to using the controller for now, which is a real shame.
To e more specific about the symptoms of the G920 as it is: huge amounts of under-steer followed by immediate and uncontrollable over-steer, either you spin out or start slowly wobbling around trying to get straight on the road. Oh, and also: no brakes (my brake pedal is quite well broken in, so I don’t have to press it super hard in other games either).
Please fix it Turn 10, Horizon is so much more fun with a wheel!
Noty.
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I dont know why people are mentioning driver updates for analog devices.
In windows 10, Start menu > type “joy.cpl” > calibrate device. Then you can test each axis and physically see the axis response on the screen.
If it works properly here then it should work properly with any windows game, and you can forget about a driver update.
The game is just a bit buggy at the moment, deadzones are not respected, analog steering sesitivity is way too high. End of story.
Im going to give it one month and if its not fixed then just pack the game in
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I have the same problem with my g920, the brakes work at 30% of their potential.
It’s a shame that developers don’t make a patch to fix this issue.
I’m still waiting for it.
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