I will definitely try this after work!
I think I found my problem, “traction control and stability control ON, and ABS braking.” I have all that off! haha
Yes, I imagine sticking traction control and stability control on would stop you spinning out…where’s the facepalm emote?
A quote of a post I just made in an FM7 wheel thread, contains relevent information for those using the G920/G29 wheels on PC.
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Good find Lalyrn. First I heard of this software. Looking at the manual there seems to be more wheel settings (much like the older software used to have) which seems promising. I’ll definitely be giving this a shot at some point.
Bear with me as I am no expert at this, but I’ve been following this post for a while now trying to get my g29 to work at least to where it’s my crappy driving skills that cause the problem and not the wheel. Using the PC & Logitech G Hub (don’t think that has anything to do with it) I was just as frustrated as everyone else here seems to be for the same reasons.
Just for giggles, I switched my wheel off of the G29 preset and made a “custom profile” for my wheel controls. I set it up as close to the G29 settings as possible, but my memory isn’t great and I really don’t know what all the settings do. It seems to have completely tamed my oversteering issues to where I am certain when I spin out now it’s due to my own stupidity. Any minor wheel movement in the “deadzone” of the wheel before would cause instant instability, now it feels pretty natural.
Can someone tell me what the downfalls of this “custom profile” maybe? If I am not using the preset G29 profile, does it not take advantage of something within the software? I guess that doesn’t really matter if the custom one works and the preset is bugged… Can anyone confirm this does/doesn’t work for them?
No, I’ve tried this many times, I normally run on a custom profile, the G29/920 one just has all the buttons pre-mapped. I suspect the differences were down to deadzone settings between the two.
Hi there im having an issue where im using a secondary controller as my handbrake button with my g29, problem is that when i click the handbrake button the game loses wheel input for a second and then comes back. Is it possible to map controller buttons under the wheel controls tab somehow? I would appreciate some help ASAP
Changed to the new logitech software, reinstalled H4 with the latest updates (haven’t played it for a while) and while the centre spring still occasionally does the weird ‘turns to the left all the time’ thing, the sensitivity is working properly now altering the rotation angles (though still has the odd step halfway through on anything bar 50), the nervousness around centre is completely gone and countersteering is now immediate and effective whereas before it felt delayed.
It’s not perfect, the countersteering still doesn’t feel quite right and there’s still the bugs above and an odd thump or kick through the steering when transitioning in and out of a drift as the steering goes over centre, but at least it’s decently playable now and I’m not sat here wondering if I’d have been better just setting fire to 80 quid instead of giving it to Turn 10…
TL:DR, new patch + new logitech software fixes some of the issue, still needs some work.
Bump up. Tried to play Forza Horizon 4 today (5th March 2019) and this issue still persists. I gave up after 20 minutes tweaking settings. After the amazing game Forza Horizon 3 was, this is such a letdown. Back in the box the game goes until next month…
Okay, turn the centre spring down and it’s pretty broken, but it’s not very strong anyway so I’m just putting it up with it at 25 so far - like someone else said, it feels like something is reversed or mirrored somewhere - turn it down too far and the car turns left easier than right. Turn it up and it just oversaturates the steering and takes away all the tyre feedback - still pretty broken
The Damper setting seems to be mainly responsible for the random kicks and odd sudden drops of torque (feels like someone turns the wheel completely off at the plug for 1/10th of a second and back on again) and kicks when going into and out of a slide, weirdly - I don’t know what it’s referencing but it does some strange things, I usually have it off anyway but I’ve set it back to 1 just in case it has a bug like the centre spring on zero. It doesn’t get rid of all of it but it calms it down somewhat - somewhat broken
Turning force feedback scale to zero still gives you force feedback that often fights against you in slides rather than steering itself into the slide as an actual car would do, even in simulation steering mode - weird, might be related to the centre spring thing.
Throttle is still bugged and gives you a percentage of available power at that particular rpm instead of being properly mapped as a flat power limit if the engine is capable of it - sloppy coding or someone that doesn’t understand what a throttle plate actually does - still as broken as it was when I reported it the first week of release.
Sim steering is back to being usable now but doesn’t feel as good as normal to me, give it a try.
That’s a catch I’ve never seen before. Drive-by-wire can be tuned for any type of response at different revs, throttle fractions, “modes” and so on.
Assuming linear mapping or traditional cable-actuated throttle bodies, what type of curve would you expect?
I’ve mentioned it back in this thread I think quite a while ago - but you’d expect the game to limit to a set maximum power level for a given throttle angle - with a roll off as it begins to reach the limit as the airspeed losses increase past the throttle plate until it chokes.
On an older vehicle you’d then get a little variability from the ignition timing, mixture changes, etc - and if you had a home brew blow through carb turbo it’d have some some similar issues - but anything remotely modern on fuel injection will be mapped by tweaking timings, and fuel for a constant torque demand to keep a set torque map for the pedal position (generally linear to engine power level), if it’s on fly-by-wire it will even change throttle position slightly to account for small efficiency changes as turbo’s spool, etc.
Forza doesn’t seem to do this, it’s got some weird blend of outright power vs a percentage of that engines available power at that rpm. So if you have a very peaky turbo car that jumps from 400 to 800bhp very quickly, and you have the throttle held open to give you say 300bhp, in real life if you held the throttle there you’d get roughly 300bhp until the car wasn’t accelerating any more or the engine ran out of steam near the redline. Or if it was a modern torque-demand mapped fly by wire or turbo system it would hold the torque at a set level and the power would increase in a nice linear, straight line.
In Forza, your 300bhp will suddenly jump to say 600bhp as the turbo spools even if you don’t move the throttle - which makes it even more difficult to control on a wheel - I don’t know if it does the same on a controller with all the extra input fudging they have, but it’s very easy to feel on the wheel, and you can check it easily by jumping into something peaky and watching the telemetery.
Only at high throttle openings should your power levels be following the jumps in the full throttle curve, for obvious reasons, below that the throttle plate choking the airflow flattens out the power curve - so if you’re sliding/drifting and only using half throttle it would be nice and predictable - instead of the power level jumping around/spiking like it currently does.
Anyway, it’s not the worst of problems, just another one that adds to the issues above. At least it’s somewhat fun again for me now, I don’t know if anyone else has found the new logitech software and a reinstall or the later updates have helped or not? If not it just points even more to there being an installation or detection bug somewhere.
Okay, my game crashed over a large jump/impact, and the terrible handling and uncatchable slides are back again.
So it’s definately some weird sort of bug triggering it. And once you have it new profiles, etc, don’t seem to fix it
Just as I was finally have a couple of days really enjoying the game, it’s back to being a complete …show.
Nope, even resetting the game and profile doesn’t fix it, I can’t alter angle of rotation any more, and the horrible countersteer delay is back again along with snap oversteer.
6 months after the issue was first reported and all we’ve got after dozen of pages, hundreds of complaints, bug tickets and people coming in and telling you something isn’t right is the topic marked as ‘answered’ and still nothing was actually looked at, no solution, no suggestions, not even a hint of help for the people with the issue. You can do better than this.
It’s not a user issue, it’s not a setup problem, it’s not users force feedback settings, it’s just some sort of bug in the profiles. I’ve gone from a working wheel back to a completely terrible one in a single game crash.
Can someone please get off their asses and have a look at what the hell is happening?
edit - with Nitro previously saying sometimes Forza picks a g920 up as a different wheel, I thought I’d try along those lines, I uninstalled the Logitech software, uninstalled the wheel from Device Manager, unplugged it, rebooted, reinstalled the Logitech software and wheel driver, then reset my Forza Horizon 4 install under Programs and Settings.
Once it had synced the settings from the cloud, I went into the menu, wiped my custom wheel profile, remapped my buttons, and hey presto, it’s working again.
My friend with the same problem has just tried the above and it fixed his problem too (well, until the game crashes or picks the wheel up wrong again I guess) - apart from he had to go into the Logitech software and set his rotation to 900 and then back down to where he normally has it for it to pick it up properly - SO FOR ANYONE WITH THE ISSUE, THE ABOVE PARAGRAPH APPEARS TO FIX IT (well, it has issues but it’s much better) ON THE PC, GIVE IT A TRY AND COMMENT - Forza support sucks donkeys so lets see if that nails it for everyone or just narrows it down.
Does anyone else use the Logitech g920 shifter?
I cannot set up my shifter as a sequential shifter,
My equipment worked flawlessly in FH3
i use the modification parts available from “3drap.it” this utilizes 3rd and 4th shift positions as shift "up and “down”
however this does not work in FH4,
But no matter how i remap the controls the H-pattern gear shifting remains persistent.
Can anyone shed a light on this issue,
I have opened up a support ticket with Forza, so am awaiting their response,
in the mean time do any of you folk have or are experiencina a similar issue with the logitech or even thrustmaster shifter?
Unfortunately, I have tried every single setting and permutation and all of the advice provided. Whatever I try, it makes virtually zero difference. I have spend more than 20 hours now trying to get this to work and it’s simply impossible. I have no issue in FM7 or literally any other car game (apart from FH3 where it works but not perfect).
It’s nothing to do with how I drive or how the car is tuned, it’s simply a fundamental issue with the game. I’m not aware of anyone who has this working. I really wish the developers would just admit that the game doesn’t support this steering wheel. It also doesn’t work on the Xbox One! So it must be the game!
I’m so frustrated that I have wasted all this time. Why is it only FH4 where this is an issue and not any other game? Even though I have tried all the settings, the game either supports the wheel or it doesn’t, no one should have to spend 20 hours trying to get it to work/
I’ve just given up in frustration. Why can’t the developers just admit it doesn’t work with the G920? So everyone can stop wasting their time?
This is the offical advice I’ve received so far, but to no avail:
There is no guide for this, is very car dependent and trial error usually is the best way to configure the wheel to work best on each car.
The controls ( steering degrees, steering outer deadzone, steering sensitivity on PC) are way more important than any FFB settings, simply because they primarily dictate the way the car responds to his input, the FFB just let him feel better what is going on.
Any car in these bucket would benefit from lower steering degrees or less than 100 outer steering deadzone
Here some suggestion
Rally monster - 540 degrees, outer deadzone 90
Extreme track toys - 540 degrees, outer deadzone 60
Modern Supercars - 720, outer deadzone 90
Hypercars - 720, outer deadzone 90
In general, if you can’t catch a slide (which remember is always caused by car’s setup, not FFB tuning) the problem can be solved solely by tuning the setup to be less oversteery, or by tuning the steering control.
If you struggle with any other bucket , you can again reduce the outerdeadzone, but don’t waste time with FFB tuning if the oversteer is your problem
I’ve just given up in frustration. Why can’t the developers just admit it doesn’t work with the G920? So everyone can stop wasting their time?
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That this is still the official line given by support is laughable - as I’ve shown above, the huge issue is that Forza doesn’t always correctly pick up the G920 wheel, and applies some other profile or something to it.
You can tell immediately when it does this versus the correct settings (which you may have to mess about with to get working as I detailed) because the cars will always steer left easier than they steer right, centre spring settings are broken, so is sensitivity, and they will spin at the drop of the hat if you are braking with a little left lock on (brake pedal is on or off in feel) and the force feedback isn’t present on gradual turns but loads up massively any time the car slides - AND IN THE WRONG DIRECTION - which is why so many of us were having so much trouble catching the slightest slide.
Yes, the wheel doesn’t countersteer into the slide, it tries to steer the car even harder INTO the corner, so you have to fight the wheel initially before you can even catch the slide - that’s why corrections and catching the car feels so slow and delayed and the cars never want to naturally settle in a drift.
Oh and your quick chat and radio will screw up if you try to remap them as it won’t let you use the d-pad for activation and selection.
Yes, you can tune every car for massive understeer everywhere and kinda tip-toe around the problem whilst trying to never, ever slide a car even a little bit - no, Forza Support, that’s NOT an acceptable or enjoyable solution.
Having your game correctly pick up the wheel every time without standing on one leg whilst patting your head and rubbing your stomach is the solution, and frankly after all this time and complaints the fact that the users are having to find a way around it because both Support and Devs have done sweet FA into looking into it is a joke with a game of this price.
I for one will never buy another Forza game again until there’s at least some resolution on this, and frankly I don’t think I’ll ever pre-order one of the Ultimate editions again like I did for this.
For the odd people that have the issue on the xbox as well there’s not even my way around above to fix it - even with the steering set at 900 degrees of rotation you get full lock about an inch of rotation from the centre position, you just have to give up and go back to a gamepad.
The only upside is - now I know how to fix mine every time it screws up - the game is great fun.
I connected my G920 last night and banged my head on the FH4 settings for a bit… to no avail. Bumping up the wheel sensitivity while decreasing the linearity seems to help, and it feels good… up until you turn more than 40 degrees. Then the game all but grabs the wheel and turns it as hard as it can, throwing you right into the nearest tree or ditch.
To Microsoft, Turn10 and Playground games, SHAME on you for failing to even acknowledge this clear integration issue.
That having been said, I decided to take a new approach. I am going to attempt to reach out to logitech to see if there’s a workaround for getting the logitech client to register FH4 as a game. Perhaps that will allow FH4 to register the wheel properly.
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My own Logitech G920 arrived today, and while I’m going to do my own testing, i’ve pretty much resigned myself to the fact that FH4’s wheel support isn’t bad, or difficult… but simply broken.
At what point do we start a petition?
As of yesterday’s patch my wheel has been borked again too, even clearing the registery and game settings isn’t fixing it. Back to being terrible with broken rotation settings, etc.