Currently i have a tune that’s consistently running mid 2:06 although i did manage to string together a lap where i ran 2:05.9 1300ish on the leader board, would like some feedback and suggestions for the car i will post the full set up details later after work, thanks in advance Chris
If my disc works i’ll test it. That’s a big if though
Set up us as follows, all parts are stock unless otherwise stated. Race aero front and rear, sport tyres 245 front 255 rear, volk te37 rims, street clutch sport trans, race prop, race diff, rave breaks, race springs, race ARB front and rear, race chassis reinforcement, street weight reduction, race air filter, sport fuel, race ignition, sport exhaust, race valves, sport displacement, race pistons.
tyre pressure: 27 front 26.5 rear (psi)
final drive: 5.16
camber: -0.4 front and rear
toe: 0 front 0.1 rear
caster: 4.8
ARB: 29.02 front 15 rear
springs: 640.9 front 582.9 rear
ride height: 4.7 front and rear
rebound: 10.4 front and rear
bump: 8.9 front 7.9 rear
downforce: 97 front 200 rear
brake balance: 48%
brake pressure: 98%
diff accel: 40%
diff decel: 50%
any feed back would be greatly accepted or recommendations for change, currently 1324 on catalunya grand prix with a 2:05.958 running all assists off with. Thanks again guys or gals 
I’ve finally managed to improve on my time how ever i have noticed that everybody seams to be 30 plus mph faster down the back straight is there some trick im missing please help?
The full aero will slow you down on the straights. Didn’t think 30 mph though. If you mess with the slider and look at topspeed I think its usually 3-5 mph. Your rivals miight just have faster corner exit speed.
maybe it is corner exit speed aswell but there doing 130 where in touching 105 :s its like they have an extra 75 hp
It’s hard to say without actually building it up, but I’d suggest trying the following:
- shed as much weight as you can to improve acceleration, even if that means throwing stuff out of the engine compartment and/or opting for the sport cage
- lose the rear toe
- lose the clutch upgrade
- increase the negative camber front and rear by at least 2 full units
- lower bump settings by at least 5 full units
- add as much rubber as you can find in your PI budget
- lose the clutch upgrade
The final drive also looks a little high, but again, that’s just a blind guess without running it. You could probably raise the tyre pressures slightly so that you’re getting hot pressures in the 32-24 psi range, and soften the springs front and rear by a couple of hundred pounds as well, maybe lower the aero to around the mid setting on the sliders depending on how you feel with the grip.
Hope some of this is useful. Caveat emptor. ;
ill give that a go its appreciated, and can i ask why you’ve suggested the setting changes? Also if i attempt to use the sport cage it bumps it into b class
The car will accelerate, handle and grip better if you lose weight. The rear toe is gong to slow you down and shouldn’t be necessary on a car in this class. The clutch upgrade is a complete waste of PI if you aren’t using an auto box. Softening the suspension and bump and adding negative camber is going to improve your cars cornering performance (see exit speed above). The more rubber you have on the car, similarly the better your cornerring and stopping is going to be. You can lose some of the engine upgrades other than the exhaust (upgrade that to Race) and put the reclaimed PI into improving handling and acceleration and you will have a faster car around Catalunya. ARBs are a matter of taste, but that front bar looks too stiff to me as well.
To get good speed on the straight at Catalunya you have to be nailing it right from the exit of the chicane. If you’re backing off at all you will be losing a lot of speed at the end of the run.
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Just wanted to 2nd WearyMick on the guidance for less weight. I just built 2 “Trainer” cars (1981 BMW M1, C-class) today so I can learn to better drive (being a newbie) in some of the complex tracks. The cars are pretty closely matched as the build is concerned with the exception of 2 key pieces, (1) weight, and, (2) tire compound. The first build has an overall weight of 2677lbs (45%) with SPORT compound, and, the second build has a total weight of 2433lbs (46%) with STREET compound. The build with less weight felt much better and I was able to cut 2+ seconds off the time. So, in my example, less weight (-244lbs) won!
The build stats were as follow:
- SPORT compound and heavier, 5.5/5.3/7.5/7.6/5.6
- STREET compound and lighter, 5.5/5.2/7.8/8.0/5.5
Notice the 2nd build is better in Acceleration (+.3) and Launch (+.4), while the 1st is better in Handling (+.1) and Braking (+.1), both even at speed.
Anyway, just thought I would share my experience. Good luck Chris!
Thanks guys i took on board what you have suggested and after running many many laps I’ve reached the top 1000, wich was my goal so worth it ivr managed to get top 500 with a celica fwd ill try to top in in the mx5 as thanks
This car is tricky on this track. I’ve never driven this car before and when you try to tune out the corner out stiffness/understeer it makes the car want to drift instead. I only spent about 15 minutes or so rebuilding and tuning the car and frankly some of the tune is simply a guess. Basically a WIP.
With your tune I was running around 1:04.7s. I was having trouble beating my veloster and noted that this car was slower and simply couldn’t keep up as well in the corners. Laptime wise I was in the 600-700 range which is ok for lobbies
My WIP build/tune is currently #255 on the board at 2:03.257 and mid to high 2:02s are possible but I mess up too much on the track. lol.
Changes to your build are as follows: Added centrifugal supercharger (car needs it badly), upped rim size to 19 inches (bigger rims on grip tunes seem to work better), removed front tire width (only use this on cars that really need it such as cars with no tire upgrades), removed clutch upgrade (useless unless you need to hit max PI), dropped driveline upgrade to sport, upped weight reduction to sport, dropped intake upgrade to sport, dropped fuel upgrade to street, dropped to street displacement, dropped piston upgrade to stock, added sport supercharger
Tune:
Front T/P 27.0
Rear T/P 27.5
Gearing 5.05
camber (front) -2.9
camber (rear) -2.8
Caster 5.4
front ARB 6.52
rear ARB 15.71
front springs 505.9
rear springs 460.6
ride height 4.7 front and rear
rebound 10.4/10.4
Bump 2.0/2.0
dowforce 50/100
breaks 48/139
diff 45/10
Not a perfect tune but its a decent start. It needs a lot of TLC but I would think 2:01s are possible once the right balance between under and oversteer is found.
Swerve – Thanks for the inputs to the OP. I just checked as well and looks really decent (build & tune). I’ll play with it some more later.
Chris – there was another similar thread that I believe was from rabbit0317 which you might want to check out. Not sure for what track, all I recall was for C class as well and had a lot of power & torque. For Catalunya National & GP you need more torque, not too much power.
thanks for taking the time to run this one always good to get an experienced second opinion. Why does this need a supercharger? I assumed n/a would be better? Ill try your build and get back with the progress
I’ll have Swerve “officially” reply to this question, since he certainly has a ton of experience at this. Form my limited knowledge I have seen that for some cars & track combinations they REALLY help, and for others, not as much. It seems based on what I have read, along with some top builds in the LBs that this combo would get benefits from including such in the build and trading off some other upgrades.
My 2 cents! Good luck again!
Pretty much this. The car isn’t able to dart around the corners and keep up a good speed off corners. For some cars, N/A is just fine because the car’s natural engine/gearing is good enough or it handles so good that it loses hardly any speed through the corners (97 civic and CRX are a beast at this). Its trial and error really and the PI limitations can really effect what you choose.
In this instance, the car could not out accelerate my veloster which is a bad sign. My veloster is a full blown grip tune that can really take the corners like a champ. I put the supercharger in this car and instead of being ghost for ghost going into the first corner, I was 2.5-3 car lengths ahead. The supercharger allows this car to have a little oomph out the corners and I saw such as I was stomping on the veloster. The centrifugal supercharger is probably one of the most important upgrades to consider using when acceleration off is holding you back. It can really wake up an engine that doesn’t provide much power for you immediately after shifting.
Here you go…Top 100…
Maybe you can leverage something, at the min, how experience in getting there!
thanks buddy, this cars become a real piece of work, i really see potential in it if im honest once again appreciate the help massively
Well that is an interesting link. Nice find. I noticed some of my settings were pretty close to his lol. That’s a little freaky if you ask me. I guess he noticed issues with the oversteer with that rear spring setting. I tried that with this car (well not that low) and it stiffened the car too much for some of the corners and made the balance of the car feel funky.
Just baffles me as how my build has much more torque and only 3 less hp but maybe its summit to do with the change of the power curve just seems counter intuitive