I find it weird that we can’t make a burnout. I tried all kinds of settings, including completely disabling all assists and still no burnout. On almost all other games, including CarX Drift Racing Online, you can make a burnout by holding the brakes and the acceleration simultaneously. IDK if that’s how you make a burnout in real life but on almost all other games that’s how it works. But on Forza 4 & 5 - not a chance.
And the cars not having a neutral gear is also weird.
Do you mean a real world burnout, using a front brake lock (linelocker)? I don’t think the game has that, or a clutch bite point either. But an in-game burnout is easy enough in any RWD car, as long as TC and SC are off. Traffic lights for drag racing are recent additions to Forza. Might have all the bells and whistles by 2030.
In a rwd or fwd car hit the accel first then immediately the brakes. You will have to modulate the brakes a bit. Usually works depending on the power of the car. Awd generally won’t. A stock drift car will pretty easily.
A line lock can be replicated by adjusting the brake balance fully forward but is annoying to change on the fly.
Edit: clutch is available by changing difficulty to manual with clutch.
Have fun!
Yes, but isn’t the clutch just on or off? There’s no analogue control, unless you swap the brake trigger, which I wouldn’t. Except maybe for drag racing. But even then, is there a biting point, where you can hold the car in place without the brakes? Or slip the clutch to control power?
I’m not being funny here, just curious, as I only use manual because I haven’t the skill to make the most of faster shifting.
You’re correct, the triggers are the only to my knowledge that are not on/off. I was just mentioning for replicating neutral.
No disagreements with your statements @EamonEejit 
I know how to make a burnout in any game, except for this one. On CarX you gotta hold acceleration and brakes simultaneously, so that the front brakes hold the car in place while the rear wheels spin themselves to death. But that doesn’t work here. As I said above, disabling all assists on Forza 4 & 5 doesn’t change anything, burnout is still impossible. I’ll keep trying but so far the conventional methods proved to be useless.
Burrito, I know about 4WD but that’s not a problem. In principle if you set the differential to 100% rear, it should behave as a RWD and burnout to work. But it doesn’t work neithe with 100% rear 4WD, nor with an unchanged RWD (1969 Dodge Charger). I made this Charger and an RX-7 for drift - both with the stock RWD differential - and while they can drift perfectly, burnout is still mission impossible.
I’ll try your suggestion to fiddle with the brakes bc that’s the only thing I haven’t tried yet, though I have my doubts that this will work.
Wild thought, maybe you’ve tried it, I wonder if there might be a trick for this in the new Drift Transmission option ?
So the one thing that comes to mind is if you are starting the wheels spinning and then hitting the brakes. The order is important. The game doesn’t let you start any powerbraking with the brakes on.
Another thing that I think should work consistently is to face the car into a wall or fence. I remember this working. I can double check in a few.
I agree that it’s often a bit different from reality.
I tried everything I could but no burnout. The only possibility is facing a wall but the car has so much power (~1100 hp) that it doesn’t wanna sit in place. When facing a wall the car behaves like Dom’s car in this scene, only there are no ropes in my case.
Maybe you need something more immovable than a wall… have you tried, those logs in the forests ? 
Logs, walls, decorations, all the same - it’s too powerful and won’t sit in place. And I need it too powerful, so that it can drift. 
You certainly can make a burnout! However, not all cars are powerful enough to do it. You also need to finely control the brakes as not to lock up the rear wheels too. In general muscle cars are better at this. Try doing a donut first and applying the brakes to make the car come to a full stop and hold the brakes just enough to make the car stand still. You can do it too from a standstill. I do this all the time
I’ve already tried that with the Charger - Class B 682 with almost 1100 hp. I made the brakes balance 100% to the front, so that the rear wheels are absolutely free and hoping that this would do the trick but it didn’t. I could hear the wheels trying to accelerate while holding the brakes key but half a second later something stops them and the burnout is a failure. I also tried accelerating a little (55 mph or so) on first gear, then activate the brakes - no burnout, the car stops almost immeduately. I tried accelerating a little and then, while holding the acceleration key, pressing and holding the handbrake. Still no burnout. 
I can make a donut in place or an artificial burnout pressing the car’s front against a big boulder but a natural burnout the way it’s supposed to happen - impossible.
I give up… At least we still have decent drift.
The smoke from a stationary burnout is a bit disappointing anyway. One thing when adjusting the brake balance is the slider is backwards. Sometimes I forget this. I go by the percentage shown being under the label “REAR”. 0% is fully forward. Easy to confirm using side view of chase cam and watching the fronts lock. I’m guessing you already checked this though.
Do you have a really tall first gear?
Edit: if you do change it so 1st gear redline is 60mph/100kph or so. I tested a drift car and had a result similar to yours if first was really tall (numerically low).
Which tyres are you using? Sometimes better tyes can have too much grip for a burnout
@WhiteBurrito42 , I know that about the sliders. Percentage numbers don’t help much to figure things out but the labels “front” and “rear” do. Altough for a 4WD car it’s better to be 50%.
The first gear of the Charger isn’t that long but it does make a little more than 55 mph on first gear. When I was setting it up for drift, I discovered that it performs a lot better with long gears, so I moved the final gear ratio slider to “speed” and then adjusted earch gear individually.
I’ve never liked the drift-ready cars, I prefer making one of my own and frankly I like it that way the most. And with the latest setup I made for the Charger, now it drifts a lot better than the RX-7 ever could. 
I love American muscles better than any other cars anyway, so I focused on the Charger.
I think I managed to share my drift setup with the community yesterday. If you wanna try it, select the Charger (1970 Charger) and look for SPEEDERBG’s Charger Drift setup.
@LuculentPigeon8 stock tires. All other tires have way too much grip and drifting becomes ALMOST impossible or too hard to keep the steering curve going, so the stock tire compound is best.
I have wondered about that. Are “Drift Tires” mislabeled ? Or what ? It just seems weird.
I don’t remember seeing “drift” tires. But drag compound surely is mislabeled and with the wrong grip bonus. Drag tires are wide and slick, so they should give the best possible grip. And yet, in the game slick tires have more grip than drag tires, when they should be at least equal.
Hi, I was able to do a burnout with your parts after rebuilding the tune to confirm I had the brake settings correct. Since it worked I felt it was worth another try at documenting how I tested it.
Double check that the brake bias is 0%. This is fully forward even though the slider button is under Rear. Then with abs off get some speed, then brake while using side view to confirm it’s just the front wheels locked. Then with shifting set to m/c, in first gear hold the clutch in, accelerator max and brakes off. Release the clutch and keep the accelerator max and apply the brakes as much as needed to keep the front wheels locked.
The car was pretty stable though it slipped forward a bit. The stock front tires have their limits.
