Ok well that is comforting (I guess).
At least I know my rig works as it should…
I recall the FFB drop-off happening in FM6 as well, so did they just port over the code and run additional mapping for mechanical trail, add some adjustable parameters and call it a day? Kinda coincidental (insert sarcasm here) that the same issue would appear through multiple game releases, unless the base code is the same.
Dan G. noted wheel users will ‘flip their lid’…my lid is still right side up, though perhaps not screwed on as tightly as before…
Are you sure it’s not heat soak/heat fade? All consumer wheels have heat fade were the electronics of the wheel will reduce the power to the motor to reduce heat build up, even the CSW v2 has a small amount of heat fade.
Edit: best way to find out would be (if your game enough) pop the lid off your wheelbase and a tach a thermal probe to the motor and monitor the temperature (because it uses a brushless motor and the copper windings are in the can and not on the armature you can get a much better and more consistent temperature compared to a brushed motor). If the FFB drops when it reaches the same temperature then bingo, heat fade. Only modding can fix that.
It is very likely the cause (heat fade).
I appreciate the feedback, but taking apart the TX and adding a 3rd party heat skink/fins, and/or motorized cooling fan would be the only way to alleviate it.
I am not prepared (yet), to do that…
To both of your points above - a master gain setting would be nice and likely help to fix the problem.
Additionally, the TX has a ‘forced fan’ mode whereby you can turn on the cooling fan to run full time.
I will employ this moving forward…it should help to minimize - or at least delay - the build up of heat to the point where the fan would normally engage with the ‘auto’ setting.
You answered your own question 
Yeah…lol, it was rhetorical I know.
^yep
Aaron did say they are going to add a master gain setting
Hey, First post
I play on the Xbox One, and I really did not feel like the setting’s were on point after days of playing around with it, so I thought maybe it needed an update. I download the Logitech Software, Plugged in my G920 into my Mac and a screen with Steering Wheel setting’s pop up. I Changed the Steering Sensitivity all the way too full and Centre Spring Scale to 0. I think this will fix the issue for most of you if I’m not crazy.
One issue I have is their is to much rough vibration when I put Force Feedback Scale to 100%, especially when drifting (even with vibration on zero), so because of this I like my steering settings more light to get less of a rough vibration. When I put the vibration to full, I can with a lower Force Feedback Percentage and still be able to feel the road.
Ever since I plugged in the G920 into my Mac and changed the Forced Feedback Scale to 100% and changed the Centre spring scale to 0, I can feel the car a lot more. I have played around with these steering wheel setting for not only hours but days.
One thing I still have to figure out is if the setting I changed on my computer actually made a difference on the G920 when I plug it back into the Xbox One. I don’t know if its just a placebo effect, playing around and changing the setting for hours each day but I really feel a difference after plugging the steering wheel into a computer and changing the settings. I have yet seen a video or read about anybody doing this so please give it a shot and tell me what you think.
Another thing you have to consider is Rotation Angle. Formula Car Steering Wheel turn around 360 Degrees (One full Rotation Lock to Lock), Rally Car Steering Wheels turn around 540 Degrees(One and a half Rotation Lock to Lock), Drift Car Steering Wheel turn around 720 Degrees(Two Full Rotations Lock to Lock) and you average Import/Domestic Car Steering Wheel turns around 900 Degrees (Two and a half Rotation Lock to Lock). Depending on what car you are driving you should change the Rotation Angle. You have to also consider the lower the number you put the rotational angle, The more sensitive all your other setting become. The higher the number you put the Rotation Angle, The less sensitive all your other settings become.
MmmmmmmmOhMyGod’s Forza Motorsport 7 Xbox One S Logitech G920 Steering Wheel Setting’s
Wheel Option’s
(Layout 4)
Steering Axis Deadzone Inside : 0
Steering Axis Deadzone Outside : 100
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside : 0
Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside : 0
Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 20 - 30 (If you heal toe I put it lower so I don’t have to push the break as hard)
Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside : 20
Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside : 50
Hand Break Axis Deadzone Inside : 10
Hand Break Axis Deadzone Outside : 100
Vibration Scale : 100
Force Feedback Scale : 16
Wheel Rotation Angle : 900
Steering Linearity : 50
Forced Feedback Understeer : 32
Force Feedback Minimum Force. : 84
Wheel Damper Scale : 2
Centre Spring Scale : 0
Assists
Breaking: ABS Off (You can feel thresh holding through the steering wheel if done correctly)
Steering : Normal (I feel that simulation is to twichy, especially when drifting)
Traction Controll: Off
Stability Control: Off
Shifting: Personal Preference
Damage, Fuel & Tire Wear: Cosmetic (I guess that’s personal preference though, Im not trying to tune on bald tires if you know what I’m saying)
Friction Assit: Off
So I went around the ring a couple times and I came to the conclusion that changing the Logitech’s G920 Steering Wheel Sensitivity Settings on your computer through the “Logitech Gaming Software” to 100% full and changing the Centre Spring Scale Rate 0 makes a world of a difference. I even put the Forced Feed Back all the way to 100 and the Vibration to 0 just to try it out for the people who like a heavier wheel and it works amazing. Truly feels like a real car around the track, I still have to drift it though.
I now have to spend time to readjust the setting’s I had posted above because the Steering Wheel Sensitivity Setting’s I had changed through the computer made that big of a difference.
The Setting I have Posted above are good for Drifting. I just tried it out and it feels amazing, I just have to get used to drifting without an E-Break.
If you are planning on doing Circuit Racing, I would set the Vibration to 0, Force Feedback to 100 and Force Feedback Understeer to 100 (In the middle).
Think i have probably found my favourite settings for the TX wheel tonight on forza.
Firstly, maybe i should explain how i like my wheel to feel/react to save anyone from wasting their time trying my settings. I like a lighter wheel, with a quick response to oversteer, the quicker you feel the rear losing grip, the quicker you can react and save it. Also, i like to feel some vibration under braking, and when im laying to much power down, to feel grip being pushed to far. Lastly, ive been using wheels for years, and spent literally 3 months messing with pcars 1 until i was happy lol.
So that being said, i use no assists, and simulation steering (be brave, trust me and have a pop at these settings)
Vibration scale 100
ffb scale 35
DOR 720
Linearity 50
Ffb understeer 35
Ffb min force 80
Wheel dampner and spring scales set to zero
If you dont own a ferrari 360 cs, rent one in free play and take it for a blast around your fav track, let me know what you think.
And for the love of god, if anyone can figure out how to get a little more feedback from the rumble strips without increasing the weight of the wheel, do please adjust and let me know, this is the one sacrifice i have to make. Cheers
Scratch that last bit, may have been a bug. Loaded into a new track after alot of messing around on the same one and the rumble strips are perfect
Gone through this whole thread and never saw anyone mention the madcatz xbone wheel
Does anyone have some settings suggestions for it
Yeh i was stupid and bought one hoping it was going to be good
Is solid though
Just not popular
After having 3 new wheels due to them losing alignment, one to the point of having to drive with the wheel turned about 20 degrees to the right to keep the car straight, i demanded my money back and went with the tx. Loved the rim on the madcatz, pedals were decent too.
You may have to hunt around google for wheel settings though
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As requested:
For why this is, read:
^Thank You DUST, All Kudos to you!
I’ll test later today on track & car I know well. I have quite good expectations of lap times what I have currently. Also how the feedback is coming now to the wheel, should be fairly easy to compare settings. Results will be more or less “how it feels” and lap times then are measurable.
I will be driving Dubai full circuit with type-r. Current lap times are with that car 2min 56 seconds. Interesting to see if it will be different.
You’re welcome.
Another point.
The clutch is pointless in forza. Its not modelled. its binary. its either engaged or disengaged. Map it to a button.
Okay. I have now some experiences and laptimes. One question. Why to use sow low figure on FFB Understeer? My experience is that using eg as high as 170, it gives much better tire communication. When front loses grip.
FFB Understeer is currently bugged. You can increase it if you like, just be aware its not working as intended.
Thanks Dust2Death for the updated settings for t500rs users! I’ve been using your original recommendation from the first page since day one and never looked back. I decided to pop back on this post just to see if there was anything new…low and behold…lol. I’m eager to try your new settings even if it pains me to change the DOR to 180!
Please do.
If you dont mind coming back with your thoughts afterwards too that would be welcomed. Good or Bad. 