At stop, turn on telemetry mode “T” default on a keyboard.
Slowly but smoothly turn wheel to stop
Does the rate the wheels turn suddenly slow down in telemetry?
This was what was broken for me. No matter the in game settings, the wheels did not smoothly go from neutral to lock. It went quick to 75% and a slow creep right to lock. To fix, you need to keep your wheel without a maximum deadspace, set your turn radius in the hardware profile. Decrease until suddenly the wheels can go full lock to lock smoothly.
Then set steering sensitivity to greater than 80. This is 95% of wheel issues and the rest of settings is just to personal flavour. If you go a smaller lock to lock, then you might want to adjust linearity because high speed will get wobbly with the loss of fine input
I’ve reread the thread and collated all I could find of any Thrustmaster wheel settings.
I believe these to be post Sept update, anyway hope this following info helps my fellow Thrustmaster wheel users and anybody really.
ps thanks to all original posters fa sharing.
pss. I did have top drifter 'CTorretto’s of YT fame’s wheel settings on my Chromebooks ‘notepad’ and was about to test them but accidentally deleted 'em … so went back to YT and they seem to missing from his first FH4 vids comment section …double doh !
jeffs setup tmx=================
All Deadzones Inside - 0
All Deadzones Outside - 20
Vibration- 25
FFB - 100
Center - 0
Wheel Damp - 0
FFB Under - 50
FFB MF - 5
Wheel Rotation - 900
latohex’s setup TM TX============
Normal Steering
All deadzones 0/100
Vibration - 85
ffb- 40
center spring - 5
damper - 18
ffb understeer - 60
ffb min force - 0
rotation - 540
oograv’s setup tmx===============
0-100
Vibration - 20
FFB scale - 30
Center spring - 25
Damper - 5
FFB understeer - 80
FFB min force - 70
Wheel rotation - 720
jimmy the fish’s setup TX xb1x ============
Steering axis dead zone…0-100
Steering linearity…50
Acceleration axis dead zone…0-100
Deceleration axis dead zone…0-100
Clutch axis dead zone…15-90
E-brake axis dead zone…10-100
Vibration scale…60
Force feedback scale…50
Center spring scale…81
Wheel damper scale…2
Force feedback under steer…75
Force feedback minimum force…56
Wheel rotation angle…540
This is caused by the sensitivity setting, anything other than 50 causes non linear input. I highly recommend never to change this setting from 50, if you want to change the DOR (or steering ratio which is essentially what the setting is supposed to do) do it on your wheel or driver page. Entirely T10s fault for implementing such a pointlessly confusing setting.
Well i am totally new to wheels sitting here with a brand new tx and trying to get the settings suitable for me since 10 hours now (PC btw.)… tried all of the above mentioned and yep some worked fine but one thing i actually can’t handle: don’t know if i am the only one who figured this out yet: I played 1 week now with xbox one controller on pc,I tuned my cars with a really slight hang to oversteer when full steering angle and braking (NOT E-BRAKING). With the TX-wheel all i get is understeer all the time and that is just weird??? (using normal steer and all assists off)
How can the car behave totally different when using a wheel? That just makes me give up right now…
Maybe I am just dumb, so if anyone knows this issue and has the answer pls help me^^
I recently tried forza horizon 4 with my thrust master t150 racing wheel and found that every car rwd or awd (i haven’t tested fwd) oversteers to the point of undrivability, the cars feel like they are on ice even on dry tarmac. There is nothing wrong with my wheel as it works perfectly in games like Dirt 4, and it is not an issue of “git gud” as i have around 25-30 hours in this game on controller and know how the cars i tested should drive and they 100%feel like they are on ice when using the wheel. plz help!
To complement above post, my settings above had the Vibrations option on “OFF”. This did the trick for me! I must also let you know this was on the demo and I dont had the time buying the full game. (And want the ultimate edition hard copy, but they are solded out here)
Nonetheless, great work listing all the different setups!
I’ve found steering deadzone 0-20 makes a huge difference and turn down the damper and centering spring strength in the Logitech profiler down to 10-30% and down to 10 within the game. Makes a huge difference, I can drift all day.
I use a Fanatec CSL, so my experience may be different. My wheel settings are virtually unchanged from FH3, but the cars need a very different tune.
I found that I need to significantly lower many of the suspension settings, especially the rear anti roll-bar. For the rally cars, this can go down to 1.
The stock suspensions feel too stiff for me on the wheel, I cannot get the weight to transfer to the outside rear wheel, so the car just slides and spins out. Free up the rear end, again mostly springs and ARB, and the car feels much better balanced.
I think it’s the artificially high arcade levels of grip that ironically makes it hard in simulation mode with no assists, For anyone who plays Dirt 4 or even the more hardcore Dirt Rally without assists, Forza 4 should be a doddle, but it isn’t. What I feel is the transition from having grip to no grip is very sudden and almost binary rather than linear. Even though the Dirt games have much more realistic levels of grip, the transition is natural and you can feel a slide coming. In FH4 it just feels like GRIP, GRIP, NO GRIP, SPIN.
It feels like the game is setup for people who keep traction/esp on and use a pad rather than folks wanting to turn off assists and use the wheel.
Wierd that sensitivity was causing it. Sensitivity was one of the first things I adjusted when I had steering problems. The responsiveness for fine adjustments was so bad I had to turn it up. Is also odd that it didnt scale the problem with setting max turn radius. Well, either way. Feels better than stock. I thought I tested on default as well…
For getting the wheel center on my G29 this seemed to work best for me
1.go to control panel
2.Hardware & Sound
3.Devices & printers
4.right click on the icon for the wheel
5.then click on game controller settings
6.click on properties
7.Then settings
8.Calibrate
9.Follow through the instructions and your wheel should now be re-calibrated
I’m starting to get annoyed. It seems like every time I play the wheel decides to feel different. Last night everything was awesome. today everything handles terribly. I spend more time fiddling with settings than actually playing.
I’m using a G27 wheel, my “ground effect” and wheel feedback was excellent before yesterday’s update. I think the dev’s have “smoothed out” the feel for controller users making it less aggressive on feedback for them and upset my G27 settings. The issue is now I have messed around with all my settings thinking it was my issue without realizing there was a software update. Back to the drawing board. Thanks for the G29 settings though Airm3ister, might give that a try
