Honestly, I would like for them to make a points system to were you compete against AI’ s, you select your drivertar difficulty, then you race against people, if you get 6th place in a race, then you get to go to the next, but your behind in points, and if you win in points, you get a say 25,000 credit bonus PLUS whatever difficulty your on, if your on the easiest difficulty, you only get 25,000, but if your on the “unbeatable” difficulty, (which is totally beatable, I mean, seriously, how am I out of ALL PEOPLE beating people who are “unbeatable,” my signature says it all) I hope in the next forza they make it harder for you to earn credits, like back in the Forza Motorsport 4 days, sure, they gave you cars, but no INSANE amounts of money like they did in 6, but of course all the people who didn’t want to work for it went and complained, now we have this “your set for the game stuff” is kind of annoying, and if they do it in forza motorsport 7, I may have to just put myself at 100,000 credits or do something to make it harder for me to get money, anyway, thanks for your input
This is easy: Free Play.
In Free Play, you could level up more by hosting your own races, and making them long. Since I’ve finished the Career modes, Free Play is what I mainly do. It also makes for more practice when I wanna improve on momentum for the online races.
Non-Ghosted Leagues only. I want to race against fast and clean players, pinnacle is ok for the most part but it can be just as bad as a standard multiplayer hopper at times.
I never run anything online in multiplayer so it’s always Free Play for me.
Rivals, free play, ghost league once in a while. I’d like to try “better” leagues but i think i need more practice, and the fact that i play with a wheel and not being able to look sideways to know where the others are really makes no sense. Not the kind of thing you want going through the first turn of a race
All League racing, ABCS paintshop and tuning garage… keep trying to get in the new porsche league but because I’m pin nacre I never get a race anymore…
95% S class hoppers, 5% private series in whatever class the series is running
I play MP exclusively. I haven’t played more than about 5 races in single player in total (the on-boarding races, plus a couple of the Porsche career races one night when my internet connection was down), and I’ve never even launched Free Play. I have no interest in playing against AI.
Carrer mode and RIvals.
Many of the carrer races Im not really enjoying but i have some sort of obsession trying to complete it all, and it also gives great chance to try all sorts of diferent cars

Carrer mode and RIvals.
Many of the carrer races Im not really enjoying but i have some sort of obsession trying to complete it all, and it also gives great chance to try all sorts of diferent cars
I’m with you on that mste.
I’m currently stuck on 89% of the TOTAL for F6’s career, and 2/3rds the way through the Porsche Career.
Sometimes it’s easy to get stuck. But I’ll be back at it again after my break.
OZ
For single player I love playing free play with LMPs, modern GTs, and early GTs at Le Mans and the long Nürburgring. For multiplayer I’ve grown to love leagues.
Here is a pretty high level overview of how my “Career Mode” works.
At the beginning of my “career” I start with a certain amount of money (I usually start around $50,000). With that money, I can buy a cheap car and begin racing. As I earn money, I can buy more cars and upgrades.
I set the Drivatar Skill to Pro (I may eventually move it to Unbeatable). Because the idea of this career mode is to improve your skill as a racer, it is recommended that you set the Drivatar Skill several levels above where you would have it in the real Career mode. You are not meant to win the series in this mode, you are meant to struggle for it.
RACES
I choose a random number of races (usually between 3 and 9) and that becomes a series. You earn points and money during the series for my performance during the series. Each race consists of you and 15 drivatars. I use the random track chosen by Free Play (the “press X for new track” at the end of a race).
Each PI class has an entry fee per race, which of course increases with PI class. If at any point, I do not have enough money to pay the entry fee, I must drop out of the series. The way I calculate the entry fee also includes basic fuel and maintenance costs. If I have no money left to enter any race, I must sell a car to get money. If I have only 1 car left and still do not have enough money for a race, I have essentially reached Game Over, and start the career mode again.
Placement in each race earns a certain amount of money. Typically you must place in the top 10 to recoup losses from the entry fee and anything above top 5 is where you can earn significant money. Placing last still earns a meager amount, though much lower than your entry fee. Disqualification, or Did Not Finish earns NO money, so avoid that at all costs.
Disqualification is a simple 3-strikes-youre-out system. Strikes are awarded as such:
Cutting the track - 1 strike
Light contact - 1 strike (A light tap or punt like a misjudged brake)
Heavy contact - 2 strikes (A strong punt or sideswipe like hitting someone in your blindpsot)
Severe Contact - 3 strikes (An actual crash like if you lose control and bomb a corner. Immediate DQ)
Did Not Finish is pretty obvious most of the time. If your car cannot reach a decent speed within a certain amount of time, you cannot finish the race.
DAMAGE
Damage is on sort of the same scale. I keep a tally of damage points as I race. This determines how much money I need to subtract at the end of the race for repairs.
Light contact - 1 point (scraping a wall or light tap on a vehicle)
Medium contact - 2 points (punting a car or knocking into a barrier at low speed)
Heavy contact - 4 points (full collision with a vehicle or wall)
Severe contact - 8 points (basically the car has been totalled, DNF)
POSITION
Each race you also earn points for your placement (except DNF and DQ, which you do not earn any points for). Because I am lazy and I’m not going to track the performance of 15 opponents while I race, I have a generic scale that I use to calculate your placement in the full series. Your total points indicates your placement in the series. This allows you to suffer a DQ or a few bad placings and still finish the series in the top 5, but you will have to work hard to maintain a 1st or 2nd place run in the series.
If you manage to place in the top 10 at the end of a series, you receive a bonus paid out. Obviously, the better your placing, the better the bonus.
If you find that you are earning too much money, buy a car with a higher PI class and compete in that class. The money in the highest classes easily spirals above half a million dollars per race, so the higher classes demand extreme skill or you will lose money very quickly.

Here is a pretty high level overview of how my “Career Mode” works.
At the beginning of my “career” I start with a certain amount of money (I usually start around $50,000). With that money, I can buy a cheap car and begin racing. As I earn money, I can buy more cars and upgrades.
I set the Drivatar Skill to Pro (I may eventually move it to Unbeatable). Because the idea of this career mode is to improve your skill as a racer, it is recommended that you set the Drivatar Skill several levels above where you would have it in the real Career mode. You are not meant to win the series in this mode, you are meant to struggle for it.
RACES
I choose a random number of races (usually between 3 and 9) and that becomes a series. You earn points and money during the series for my performance during the series. Each race consists of you and 15 drivatars. I use the random track chosen by Free Play (the “press X for new track” at the end of a race).Each PI class has an entry fee per race, which of course increases with PI class. If at any point, I do not have enough money to pay the entry fee, I must drop out of the series. The way I calculate the entry fee also includes basic fuel and maintenance costs. If I have no money left to enter any race, I must sell a car to get money. If I have only 1 car left and still do not have enough money for a race, I have essentially reached Game Over, and start the career mode again.
Placement in each race earns a certain amount of money. Typically you must place in the top 10 to recoup losses from the entry fee and anything above top 5 is where you can earn significant money. Placing last still earns a meager amount, though much lower than your entry fee. Disqualification, or Did Not Finish earns NO money, so avoid that at all costs.
Disqualification is a simple 3-strikes-youre-out system. Strikes are awarded as such:
Cutting the track - 1 strike
Light contact - 1 strike (A light tap or punt like a misjudged brake)
Heavy contact - 2 strikes (A strong punt or sideswipe like hitting someone in your blindpsot)
Severe Contact - 3 strikes (An actual crash like if you lose control and bomb a corner. Immediate DQ)Did Not Finish is pretty obvious most of the time. If your car cannot reach a decent speed within a certain amount of time, you cannot finish the race.
DAMAGE
Damage is on sort of the same scale. I keep a tally of damage points as I race. This determines how much money I need to subtract at the end of the race for repairs.Light contact - 1 point (scraping a wall or light tap on a vehicle)
Medium contact - 2 points (punting a car or knocking into a barrier at low speed)
Heavy contact - 4 points (full collision with a vehicle or wall)
Severe contact - 8 points (basically the car has been totalled, DNF)POSITION
Each race you also earn points for your placement (except DNF and DQ, which you do not earn any points for). Because I am lazy and I’m not going to track the performance of 15 opponents while I race, I have a generic scale that I use to calculate your placement in the full series. Your total points indicates your placement in the series. This allows you to suffer a DQ or a few bad placings and still finish the series in the top 5, but you will have to work hard to maintain a 1st or 2nd place run in the series.If you manage to place in the top 10 at the end of a series, you receive a bonus paid out. Obviously, the better your placing, the better the bonus.
If you find that you are earning too much money, buy a car with a higher PI class and compete in that class. The money in the highest classes easily spirals above half a million dollars per race, so the higher classes demand extreme skill or you will lose money very quickly.
Good system
Mostly League Racing, Career Mode occasionally to finish it up a little at a time, then rivals. Of course tuning, test drive and painting take up a lot of my time too.
I actually enjoy career mode. Sure, the drivatars seem to be drunken fools or angry psychos, but, that actually better prepared me for multiplayer (where many of the players also seem to be drubken fools or angry psychos, LOL). I found the progression to be fine, as long as I mixed it up and didn’t only follow one path.
I have not even touched the Porsche Exoansion yet, but I will and I am looking forward to it.
I see a lot of folks are staying away from multiplayer. That’s too bad, because it CAN be some really great racing. Dodging the occasional psycho is a pain, and the inattentive driving of others, only make you a more aware and better driver. Don’t get me wrong, it can be very frustrating, but it can also be rewarding. I’ve met some great folks in multiplayer and hope to meet a lot more.
Peace
Career, for some reason. It needs to be more open ended, or heavily expanded.
I’m one of those weirdos from the Drift Paddock who drifts, but only does it in private lobbies where I can tandem.
Sounds really interesting mate.
I’ve copied it into a text file and will hone it out in a nice format for emailing to a few friends.
Thanks so much for spending the time to list it all out like you have… That would have taken a decent another of time to get all that down.
Really appreciate it mate.
It could be applied to the Porsche’ a Expansion Pack as well.
OZ
Tag 99% of the time but I’ll jump in drift or a class tag every so often. I just want tag back on normal tracks.
90% private lobbies these days… but summer is coming so the xbox will soon start collecting some dust a couple of months.